CowboyBob

I just measured the difference a M bobbin is .80 thinner,so he could put a piece of cutout business card thickness in the bottom to prevent the bobbin from backlashing if he had to.

You can take your tension spring off & stretch it alittle to make it stronger.FYI machines with front loading bobbins never give a good stitch esp. leather,I've seen this happen on Adler 105's that have the front loading bobbin.machine will sew better w/a side loading bobbin.This machine was made to sew cloth,canvas or vinyl where it'll make a better stitch.

Here's a pic of my 34-11 & yes it is the HD model,the bobbin is same diameter but slightly wider than a standard M bobbin.It can use real heavy thread since it has the 45K upper arm on it,some just had the smaller 16,17 class upper arm.Parts for it will be almost impossible to find.The shuttle looks like but is larger than the 30-7.

I used to buy it @ Home Depot.I don't know if they still have it though.

Your Welcome,I did notice a couple of groups for the Tin Lizzie on Facebook that you might want to join.

I wished I could help you,but we never have sold or dealt with any quilting machines.You might want to Google for dealers to find any parts you might need.

Yes,when the outside foot goes back (with the feed dog underneath pulling the material) the inside foot lifts up & the when the inside foot goes down the outside which is spring loaded moves foward to make another stitch

Yes,it's a 132K6 since it has the vibrating foot.

Good use of a an old machine,guess I better stop scrapping them!LOL

Ok ,Is there any play in the gears that drive the hook? And have you tried timing it @ 2.2 rise?

You might want to check the small finger that keeps the inside of the bobbincase from turning,if it is set too close to the hook it can pinch the thread & prevent it from passing through.Run the machine by hand & watch it as the thread passes through this part.

How about 69?

Try size #92,138 might be too large for this machine.

Yes you can look underneath or open the cover on the top rightside.

Alot of these had a cotton string timing belt in them,it is no longer available,the rubber replacement one will require you to buy new upper & lower timing belt pullies to switch it to the new style rubber belt.So you might want to check if the belt is rubber or the string,the cost to change it is approx $400.00

Alot of motors have a built-in brake that comes on when your foot isn't on the pedal,so you might need to push the pedal down 1/8" or so to release it.

Yes,everything interchanges.

We stock 40, 45 & 50mm

15mm

I have a customer that uses 277 on top & 92 in the bobbin for upholstery work with a 206RB-5 we sold him.It would never work in leather though.

Just put some oil all the way around the hook,take your belt off,turn the machine towards you as far as it will go & then push the wheel backwards as fast & hard as you can.It might take a few tries BUT it's usually impossible to get those screws out when it's jammed up.

Nice looking bag & glad to hear you got it sewing again!!

Just to verify, at what point in the needle cycle should the take-up bar be at its highest point. From what I understand, needle and take-up leaver both max height at the same time. It's fixed & the only way it could be off is if you have a loose screw in the needlebar cam causing it to vary,the one screw goes in a hole in the shaft. But to answer your question when the takeup lever is all the way up the needlebar should be approx 6mm down from it's highest position .

This isn't an Adler but I pointed out the needlebar cam for you,should have 2-screws. needlebar cam.pdf

There is no takeup lever adjustment,but here is a set screw in the needlebar cam that could be loose,otherwise maybe your hook timing is slow causing the thread to not release off of the hook when it should.You want the opener to just open alittle & not be tight when it's pulling all the way counter-clockwise.