CowboyBob

Yes,the split threads on the upper tension got pinched together alittle & the nut won't grip it good enough now.If your real lucky you might5 be able to pry it apart to work,it might break but it needs replacing anyways .You probably aren't getting enough upper tension so it loops underneath.

I shoulda asked you what have you done to the machine?? But you can see the difference now.

Since there's no electronics involved a simple one is real easy to make.I made one for our Bridgeport mill yrs ago & it still is working.All you need is an old 3 ph motor large than your motor ,run 2-110 v separate lines to it & continue on the the clicker motor.Then we hooked up a starter motor that spins the convertor motor.So we get the starter motor spinning first ,then turn the 220 on ,shut the starter off & the 220v convertor motor keeps running & as it runs it puts out the 3 phase.This does only work w/Deltawound motors(for the convertor).But the spare motor we had laying around just happened to work after we got it wired up. PS. I did try a static convertor w/condenser in it & had some much power loss it wouldn't work,did an online search about convertors & found out about this.

If the hook screw isn't tight it won't pull it down enough to clear the arm.If the machine binds up with it tight you must have some old thread or dirt under it that needs to be cleaned out.

With #69 thread it's 48 yds,#92 is 35 yds.

New belts will shred sometimes until they get the coating worn off. Yes,hold on to the threads(esp.the needle thread) to first 3-4 stitches,towards the back or rightside. On the bobbin thread you will probably end up knowing afterwhile how much you can sew before it runs out,but for now you'll just have to pull it out & look @ it once in a while.

Yes ,a #26 is the correct size & when you thread it make sure you go around the 2nd tension 1 & 1/2x,Also you will probably need to tighten the upper tension for this 346 also.Also did you hold the needle thread for the first 3-4 stitches?

I'm glad to hear you got it out.

No, no hole all the way through,best thing to do is take the needle set screw out & blow air the screw hole.

Have you taken the end cover off(needlebar end) & oiled everything lately?

There's some 281 parts manuals here http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/

I set a needlefeed 111W up once for an Amish guy that wanted to sew belts & worked but was pretty hard to treadle ,we stuck a walking foot 111w in the stand & it really took alot more foot power than the needlefeed.The walking foot 111w has alot of resistance going on when it walks it makes it hard to treadle.The older mchine like 29 & 42-3 have large wheels & the walking foot works different & they will spin & go around -3 x when you do it if they are oiled good.It might help a 111 treadle easier if you could find a heavier handwheel w/a small pulley.One like what's on the 42-5.

No,it won't you need a Juki 562,563,Consew206, 225,226,Singer 111w155,154,153 will all do it much better than a garment machine.

Do both of the machines have the same amount of tension on the check spring?(The one that moves while your sewing)

Which bobbins are you using,I've had people w/the same problem that bought cheap bobbin off flea-bay,they were out of round.Try pulling on the bobbin thread n& see if there's any tight spots.

If you want to nice looking straight stitch use a D point,if you want a hand stitch (zig-zag) look use the LR point.

Singer had an oil can that would set there.

Loose threads on the bottom like that is one of 2-things #1 threaded incorrectly,make sure you go around the 2nd tension on the side 1&1/2x when threading. #2 too loose top tension,you also need to be sure & hold on to the needle thread for the first 3-4 stitches when you start sewing.So if it's threaded correctly tighten you top tension 1/2 turn @ a time.

Most people use #277 on sheaths & #138 on the thinner leather.

I don't know what the big deal is where it's made?I think that unless your using it 24/7 in production you will never notice a difference.We sold some new 206's to NASA over a year ago & they ordered 2 more this year.We also have canvas & upholstery shops that run them pretty hard & they hold up great.It has more to do with how they are oiled than anything else.

I don't know much about this machine but have one like it that sews.I thought it might have been made to sew harness since it has such a high foot lift.I don't have any manuals for it.

Yes,this adjustment is made to close if your sewing slow & open it if your sewing faster.Is it closed now?

It's behind the back cover.

Back in the day they can get away with alittle advertising hipe.It does 3 things cuts,bevels & skives, so yes you have what Landis called a 3 in 1.

Hey Colt we'll keep one ready for ya! We had a customer that makes holsters & belts tell that the machine paid for itself in less than 3-months & he's had it now for over 3 yrs.