RockyAussie

Not sure if this is the type of clip you want to make but thought it might help a bit with ideas at least.See pics This shows clip in finished billfold Piece at bottom shows as cut from stainless steel supplier cost about 70c per This pic shows bending angles with allen key that I have cut slot into.Plastic still attached. Final bend done and tapped with mallet at bend to make more springy. Hope that inspires some at least. Regards Brian

I'm using .9mm and I have been doing them on and off for 4 or 5 years and never yet heard any problems or complaints. I don't use bill folds myself so I can not be 100% sure.The strips cost me about 70c each and take generally with practice about 5min to sand and bend into shape.I cut a slot down an allen key to enable the close bending operation.The bending is done with the plastic protector sheeting still on. I will get you some pics if you want.Regards Brian

I am curious if the one on the left lifts up on a spring tension thing or not? I make one for a bill-fold style that we do occasionally and that is not all that hard to bend into shape. I start by getting a place that works with stainless to cut me some thin strips and then I just cut them to length and sand the end rounded then bend them into shape with a tool I made up for the job. Something to consider and it gives a point of original difference to your product..

Hi Dorothy Given the thickness you state around 3mm it would stitch that fine but I would think it is still likely not a good starting point machine. What I was trying to say is that in my factory I have quite a few various machines and I could give you a quick run through on them and what they do.Our web page shows a lot of bags and wallets and such and these are all done on lighter machines than the this Singer. The Cowboy will stitch up in the same thread sizes and thicknesses as the Singer your looking at and would give you a good idea as to whether it is too much or not, in regards to size.Re the servo motor the Cowboy has one on but many of the other run on clutch motors like the Singer and some have clutch Efca with needle positioners and so on.

Hi Dorothy, I think that is a pretty good price for this machine around this neck of the woods at least. I am out Etna Creek ways if you want to talk. Check my web page it has contact details or just PM me a message. I am not too sure if this size is what you would want for bag making normally but I do have a Cowboy 441 here if you want to check it out for use.

Nice looking gear and would love to have the type. PM me if you like with contact details. I am up in Rockhampton but may be able to get a brother down there to help collect.

Well done. I bet you had some fun doing the edging on it though.

I do a similar process as well if I am concerned about the adhesion of the foil due to whatever finishing products may be on it. I do think though that 325 is a bit to high and if following with foil you would have to put the pressure down very light and the time very fast in order to not end up with a big blur. On stiff leathers maybe alright.See this link of the machine type mentioned-

That Juki looks good for the job but I cant say I have any experience with the thin shaped throat plate as yet. The small end is a great asset when doing tight curves as in wallets etc. The way I design a lot of my wallets I can stitch all the way and across the bridge area as well. A check on my web site should show some I think.I way prefer the table with the cut out in the middle as it gives somewhere to put extra bits to be stitched a lot of the time without needing to of feed of a trolley which does slow things down.

Happy St Patricks day to you as well if it still is I guess. I cant say I know of any books or video's on stitching in an overall all encompassing way. I guess first thing is are you hand stitching or using a sewing machine and what type if you are? I have too many sewing machine types to mention and although they all mostly work to sew and join stuff together in a similar sort of way they all have their own, can I say personalities. This week I had an operator who could not understand why the edge of the tote she had sewed up when put into shape showed the stitching thread so much down the edge. The tension looked fine and the knotting looked to be in the middle? This machine previously was still set up for very light duty work and the tensions were set to not pull the fabric out of shape on credit card pockets.By tightening the bobbin 1/2 a turn and the top tension about a full 3 turns we still ended up with the knot in the middle but the tightness of how it held was a world of difference better. The point here is that it can take a lot of practice to get the end result desired and sometimes a little advice can help.I would love to see your picture of the seam whenever you are ready. Regards Brian

Thanks Uwe and Jim Timber. I have recently bought a 441 with a guide rod that is mounted along with the bobbin tension discs. What threw me here is that my understanding of doing the tension on this machine is to tighten the second tension 1 turn to 1/2 half turn at the primary tension. As Uwe kindly has shown in the pic above I believe the surface contact area on the thread would be more than if going straight down to the secondary tension. Therefore has that procedure of tightening the 2 got to be done any differently? Regards Brian

Hot foil or just blind stamping with the heat and a decent hot foil machine will work most of the time on chrome, but sometimes maybe consider a Veg badge stitched on as some leathers just won't behave almost whatever you do.

Would it be too much trouble for a pic of this Steve. It sounds like the tension discs would be nearly fully surrounded by my understanding.

Likely you have skived tooo deep. Whether you stitch above the skive or within the skive depends on the job and how you want it to appear. If you want the thread not to show much generally the thicker the better if the leather is soft.

Forgot to mention that for high production and that type of work a needle positioning system would help a lot while you learn and speeds production a lot while helping to keep the quality high.

The Pfaff 335 is an excellent machine for this work. I have one myself. Given where you are though I would think first about the Seiko as in this link.http://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/products/lscseries/ Consider for high production the larger bobbin/hook size. From a quality point it would be also be at the top and service would be very easy I think.Showing support for the country your in can be of advertising benefit as well.

First question is what thread size would you like to be able to go up to on top and bottom? 2nd question is are you wanting high production? 3 what is the thickest material/leather you want to stitch?

Average time on the 5 holes on both sides is about 40 seconds with practice. It is not so much burning as it is ironing which at the end of the day is mostly what burnishing is without so much rubbing.If you want to try without the dimmer switch try rubbing a bit of furry edge leather high up the shaft nearer to the handle. A quick wipe should smooth in the nap quite well.

The fastest and easiest way I have come up with is done with a 60 or 80 watt soldering iron temperature controlled through a light dimmer switch.We do all holes in our belts this way including the crew punch slot for the buckle. Takes a bit of practice but gives excellent results and on belts that sell between $200 and $500 that is what you gotta do I reckon.See pics. The tip get shaped to suit and polished generally every 200 or so belts.

I agree. It looks a lot like the Italian leather we use in quite a few of our tote bags.Sovereign is one that is of a high standard we use often. The agents in Australia have a pretty decent web site.http://www.leatherco.com.au/colours/upholstery-leathers/furniture-interior/sovereign/3/12/89

At that weight I would 2.8mm may be alright. In saying that and looking at the leather in your other post and taking into account that getting the strap split any thinner would be a hassle.

If it helps I bought a few of the needle dispensing bottles for just this task from HK similar to as in this link.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-1-OZ-bottles-with-stainless-needle-tip-dispenser-for-Grandfather-Clock-Oil-/120925943269

2.8mm seems pretty thick to me without seeing the camera and weight etc. A picture would help. I would think about 2 to 2.2 mm under the ring would be more about right normally. To get a really refined look I sometimes skive and join the 2 ends to end up at the some as strap thickness then sew it around in a complete circle. Make sure to put the ring in first and move it around as you sew. Once this is done either sew to close or rivet if you prefer.

Just A and C assuming C is the other end of the strap. Many do none at all.

Where is the thanks???Ohh and if I upset anybody whatever their gender ...........I don't care...... Without any thanks as often seems to be the case I think whatever the hat you wear the reason to try and help anyone seems a bit pointless. Simple.