RockyAussie

I think that a little light edging or dye even would work in combination with a bit of ironing in. See picture of ironing in some edging. The iron by itself without edging will also get rid of the fuzzies. I run mine through a light dimmer switch to control the temp but they have a lot of flasher type stuff these days. Practice on some similar weight first to get the hang of it. Regards Brian

Man you could have a lot of fun playing with that one I reckon. Have you seen it going?

Hi Yin Tx. I am curious about what you are going to do about the fuzzy raw edges. You are doing a beautiful job of the stitching but I would have ironed / sealed the rough edges before putting together. A bit of wetting will reduce the look but pretty hard and tedious I would have thought once you get this far. Just wondering maybe that is the look your after?Regards Brian

Excellent work and thanks for sharing.

Some I would liked to have but at the end of the day you have to have the money to legally do something about it if it is infringed. Or more than the other guy at least. I have done one I think it will have to get done in bulk in China and quickly mass marketed before others come up with their own versions of it.It is a manual lever device for pulling out Lantana and such weeds, can dig trenches pull out star pickets and many other change tip applications.It is mostly useful for rural and landscape applications.It has the power to allow an average person to lift a shipping container of the ground on one side.At this stage I just need to win the lotto though.

Well this is a bit suspensfull (my new word by the looks). I see a mistake here but don't worry I'll let you know when your finished. Just kiddin. I hate LOL so I'll just LOQ

I think what your looking for you should find in this following link. They have embossing machines, letter sets and all sorts. They are a lot closer to you than me.http://www.howardimprinting.com/

Thanks again for the trouble Eric.I just happen to have one down at the moment.Regards Brian

A bit of stainless around 1mm thick should do it. If your not to worried about looks I have been guilty of cutting up a steel ruler before and bending to suit a particular application.They are normally quite springy. As you have probably noticed a lot of my tools are more about function than looks.

Fantastic as usual Alex. I wish there was more of a market over this way for holsters (Australian gun laws) as work like yours is always so inspiring.

The brush version is a common thing to see in the shoe repair trade but funny enough I have never seen it in use in the leather goods manufacturing before.I use one here nearly every day and the version I made is fantastic for small seam lines around bag edges and watch bands and heaps of other little bits.You can see in my web page where the girls here stick flowers and leaves and all sorts onto the bags and purses and before they are stitched this is commonly used to stick them in place. This bag is a good example of what I am talking about.

On the bottom of this answer you should see my You Tube Channel in blue. This will take you to 3 videos on using a roller foot on a skiver. Glad we could help solving the problems. Regards Brian

If You are doing a fair bit of glueing you might find this of help. The brush version you should be able to get from a shoe repair supplier there and the tube version is what I came up with for fine tip glueing with contact cement. The brush part can be separated and this leaves an aluminium part that has a hole through it. From a craft/hobby supply store I was able to get a brass tube about a foot long that fits this hole pretty neat. I cut this down to length and then with a pin punch gently heat and flair one end a bit. This stops the tube from pushing out. A few punch hits on the aluminium around the tube lock it in nice and tight. A bit of brake tube squeezed of on one end acts to cover the brass tube and stop the glue from drying out between uses.The army food container thing with thinners in was my best answer to keeping the brushes supple and ready between uses.Have fun it work very well.

Oh!! I just remembered, I think you can get from Ohio travel goods a clip open style pull that fits some zips like the YKK and maybe some others. As I said the pulls are often the culprit. If you have trouble finding it let me know and I will search through my endless bookmarks.

I am glad you got the problem fixed. As for the zipper being able to be replaced at a later date easily I guess you could design it that way if you want. Perhaps 2 or 3 clips to hold a pocket of sorts but Of course then the clips would fail. I have to say that I don't hardly ever get returns for my own zips but some of my customers have the hide to send me other manufactures bag and purse zips to replace. I charge good for those. I do as my conscience tells me after inspecting the return and being fair as to how they have treated the product. Normally I would not get one back for a couple of years at least. Normally they are happy to pay a fair part of the cost when they do. Regards Brian

Ok. What is failing here is most likely the slide. The slide on zips have a lot to do with how they work. If a heavy machine were to press its foot down on one side of the slide it can tilt the angle of the slide which only has a bar in the middle.Any hammering down on the slide edge could do it. Once this happens one side is tight but the other becomes loose and will no longer feed the zip together properly. In the past when doing zipper repairs often all that is necessary is to carefully squeeze the pull down a little on both sides at the back smaller end. The slide must be right back at the start first before squeezing.When zips get worn a lot and start coming apart a little squeeze will generally do the job.I use a small set of blunt nail pullers that allow you to reach over the pull and press at the back. This is not at all common and I think just a bit of bad luck, the chances of it happening again would be very unlikely.

How is the zipper failing and what method did you use that makes you think it is your fault. If your putting on the zip slide yourself I recommend always checking the slide functions well before stitching in. If you do that already then the only other thing I can think of is if your foot is dragging on top of the zip when your stitching. If that is the case then you need to get a foot that stops that from happening. If you don't want to use a zip you could perhaps put some clip down straps across or an overlap flap depending on the pocket style.

Yea likewise with the welcome Chuky, had a couple of Bonnies myself but not quite so pretty as yours.I'm up in Rocky if the name did not give it away already.

Now that is a different fishing style I reckon.Fly fishing I guess.

Woolies in the fruit section I think.

OK. I did it quite a few years ago and the pics above of Uwe's 145 may have made me think that the spring rested on the doo hicky. As long as it works,as it did for me that's the main thing.

Although the thickness you want to sew can help, knowing the types of product would be better and how far your budget can go. There are just to many machines suitable for various applications and sometimes no one machine can do the job either. I regularly use 6 different types in my production and have many more not so useful past purchased ones in storage.Knowing as close as possible to what you are wanting to make and getting the right advice here can save a lot of $$$. Regards Brian.

I think by raising it as I have done the outer spring has less tension on it and the inner spring then allows more of an adjustment. As I did this for wallet type work I would say if you wanted it to do heavier type work you would only take the sleeve up 1/4"(6mm).In the location I have this one the adjustment bolt does not feel to touch the inner spring until about 3/4 way down. As for my 335.... its staying in the sin bin.The Adler 69 as Uwe pointed out has a more logical adjustment system and I only every use that when I want to do thick bag handles and such. The 331 does most things just right, It's just a shame they stopped making them.

It deserves it. It's got one foot tooo many for my liking..

Here's the pics of the 335 with the sleeve pulled up about 3/8". This still allows the screw when wound down to come into play and have some meaning I guess. Note the sleeve is no longer visible from inside against the outer spring. Sorry the pics are not the best, it is quite dark down the back in that container.