RockyAussie

May have some of this depending what your wanting.Where in Australia are you? I'm in Rockhampton area. Brian

Looks tooo good to rest a can on to me. No wonder your a 4 star now

That is a very NICE start Regards Brian

Its alright YinTx I found it. I'd say it looks a bit tight but best put some weight in and try before stitchin up. Just a thought I think you should put either some leather covers over the end of those clips or as I have done slice a bit of soft tube like as used in fish tank bubblers and slide that over the end. Will reduce the marks left on the veg when you take them off.

What is wrong with the strap lengths? Are they too long, too short or what? If too long maybe a leather tube over the bar might work. Its looking real nice to me at any rate.Brian

Maybe the problem is after uncorking the wine you gotta finish that before the stitching??? I use the crepe rubber blocks used for cleaning up the sandpaper. Where's the latest pics? I guess that thumb is starting to look like a watering can Brian

Hi jimi , I would think that you should be able to get 1 from the dealers there but have you given thought to welding or brazing a flat onto the other end of the narrow one. I assume that is the one you must have. Just found this link that may help. http://www.fortuna-gmbh.de/en/ Regards Brain

@RolandranchThe jewellers rouge will do but I find the brown Tripoli faster and less messy. Do not use both polishes on the same buffing wheel. @tomsmith85717 the grit used is 120 I think but I do smooth it out by grinding down with some old sandpaper as well. New paper tends to bite in and curl the edge to much and takes longer to polish the knife back smooth. Couple of pics below show the sharpness needed in one of the common tasks I use this knife for. Last pic shows after counting the fingers and at the end of the day doing a little product testing. Serious ... well someone's gotta do it.

I prefer to polish with Tripoli polishing compound as it is a little more aggressive. I do that about 1 to every 10 or 15 sharpens. Many here won't agree with my methods but it takes me 1 to 2 minutes to sharpen a blade with the belt sander shown (holding the blade away from direction of travel) and 30 sec to polish off. The 100 odd butts shown here would require 2 sharpens to get through them all as they are fairly firm hide. They have to be straightened before running through the belt cutting machine. Regards Brian

Should do the job alright. Have fun with the sharpening

@motocoutureYour welcome. Its not often you get to cut one of these up and compare techniques.

I had a customer this week not wanting this purple croc bag any longer and instead wants me to cut it up and make up a few other pieces instead. As the handle is a little similar to what you are wanting to do I thought I'd take a few pics as I go. My own method is not quite the same but in most respects it is. You will notice in the pics that the cord is not attached to the outer and that is something I found to be important as if it is, the handle does not flow and move very well. I do mine by putting a thin interfacing layer around the cord glued only on the interfacing where it touches onto itself when wrapped around. The glue in the outer layer then can contact the interfacing without affecting how the cord moves within it. I just find that a bit easier to do. Often I don't bother to skive and fold the edges in and prefer to make the join to be stitched about 3/8" wide in order to sew easily on the sewing machine. Once it is stitched I just slice of the excess up close to the stitching and then edge.Last picture shows an example of that method. Hope that this helps a bit.

It is best if the zippered pocket hangs free not glued to anything. Most linings also are better if not fully attached and if glued at the edges only. Show us the bag design if you want a better recommendation. Many of the bags I make have some form or other of interfacing but most are crocodile. Check my web page for some other examples.

I am sad to hear that, and I have to say if you really believe that then that is most likely the truth.

Oh well .... Who the hell wants to be Regular anyway, I'd rather be %#$* REAL anyday ...

I thought that's what it looked like but I am surprised that you could even get it to stitch any thing at all. Just be careful that the previous owner has not done something bodgy to make the spring stay in somehow. It looks like new yet???

Next barbed wire fence I put up I'm going to have to remember that. I never thought about calling them a REAL project before. Lots of other unmentionables but REAL just never occurred to me.

Have you thought about just making one up out of a bit of stainless?.

I agree. Save some more if you need to. If I was to start all over my first machine would be a cylinder machine but not too large on the cylinder. A 335 clone perhaps. Brian

I was nearly going to say time for a 441 of sorts but I guess if you get to stick you thumb in one of them it wont be so easy to fling of your hand. When I feel mad enough to go the hand stitch route I keep a block of crepe rubber handy for the odd tough spot. PS cover the fish tank or he will just be waiting for the next exciting episode. Brian

You said this leather is thing and flimsy. I assume you mean thin and flimsy? If it is thin how thin? I myself would be looking to back it with a firmer substance but keep the thickness in total down to 2 or so mm depending on the size and weight of the bag your making.

That's alright I like popcorn Its still looking good

I'll have to ask you what model Juki. The foot pressure is normally increased or decreased by the knob in this picture I've borrowed from above that Uwe has provided above. Brian

Looks pretty good so far, re minds me of saddle bags I've made except for the handles.

Thanks - but really living in Australia makes it more a necessity. Don't get me wrong though a challenge is always more fun. WOW now that looks like fun to me.