RockyAussie

I should have thought to mention that you will get better results by putting an isolation fabric around the rope first with no glue touching the rope except at the ends. Then you can glue it in place in the leather without losing the free movement of the rope inside. It makes the handles more easily move and stay in place better. Regards Brian

The size would depend on the bag size and weight etc a bit but I mostly use some 10mm cord like in the picture here. I make the pattern where the stitch line up wider to start and trim down after I stitch. Self taught and there may be better ways. Here are some pics that may help some.Sorry I have not some more of the break down.

Excellent video as always Ewe. I found a video that I initially used to time mine and still had problems with missed stitches in reverse etc and when I followed the Juki guide as best I could it then went perfect. There was a large difference in the 2 different procedures as to where the hook ended up in relation to the needle height. The 25.9 height from the bottom of needle bar clamp and the throat plate seems a bit difficult (ha ha) but I rested a short ruler on the throat plate and got as close as I could see and now no problems. I believe that your hook is not going back as far as mine is Uwe and that may make the hook not fall back with gravity to open as easily at slow speed as is desirable. Logically a machine moving at some speed will make the hook throw back away more definitely as it reaches the end of its travel in either direction and is probably one of the reasons that miss stitches happen more when you are going slow. You'd think they would be able to work out some sort of alternating repulsing magnet to better force the opening on the hook. I should perhaps mention that I do not have any problems getting the reverse stitch lining up into the previous holes as it seems many do and I have not got any washers and so on to do this. Don't know why and if it develops I will have to find out I guess. Brian

Just a couple of things I've noticed by going back over Uwe's video. My hook goes back at least another 3 to 4mm than does Uwe's. It appears that the thread in Uwe's snags in the race and logically that could impede the bobbin/hook from falling back away when it should. I would guess as Constabulary suggested that the shuttle race packer needs to be a bit thicker in that case. I believe a coke can thickness could work if that helps.Equally if the race is not freely moving without thread in it the packer may be damaged or too tight for that size thread. Best of luck Brian

Is the cylinder too big or what is the problem with the Cobra 4 for doing it? Generally where there is a will there is a way. One front or back on should be easy.Keeping in mind not to put in stiffeners until after the outside is fully sewn.A few position markers for lining up as you go around would be necessary. You just cant fully glue it down into position first is what I am saying and it would possibly require 3 stop starts.Saying that though a 335 would be a fair bit easier and a sew around the sole edge machine would be a breeze.A good shoe patching machine would easily do the job but it takes a fair bit of practice to get a nice looking stitch from them.

This is just a thought that comes to mind as I have known of some sewing machine mechanics to tighten the shuttle race screws fully in tight.The 2 I am referring to are the ones with springs behind them.I believe if they are tight they can impede the thread from going around without being caught up.This following link I think should be checked around the 9 minute in mark to perhaps better understand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvHgMDlfQo0 I initially received mine with them fully tightened and had some problems.I have not noticed any problems since I have loosened them and timed the machine following the Juki 441 engineers manual instructions with regards to height measurements. Thanks for the Video share Uwe and Wiz for your as usual superb break down of useful tips.

Nice looking set there and should last more than a lifetime I think. Well done Y

That for sure is dam fine piece of leather work craftsmanship.Very inspiring.Thanks for sharing

Me too always. It is shaping up nicely Y.

Easiest way I think is to have the roo oversize all around by 10mm to 1/2" or so and glue and attach to bottom rectangle only first. Then one piece at a time glue and attach the flaps using the edge of table,box or similar to get in the bends without wrinkles. The lid piece would be last and glued only to the back top edge first. To allow for the lid curving I would put a mark on outer lid edge while it is flat and mark inward about 8 to 10 mm. Mark right across as it will help to keep straight and square. Now I would glue and attach going for a curve that meets at that point marked. This should stop too many resistance wrinkles from developing.Then with sharp tip knife trim away all the excess on edges and then sand and edge before further assembly.Look forward to seeing the finished piece. Regards Brian

If it is going alright I'd say grab it quickly. Second hand here they are often over a $1000au. They dont do the best stitching as some machines but for repair work on shoes and sometimes a bag they are often about the only affordable way. With practice you can make its stitches look very acceptable. The foot if you don't already know can go in a full 360 degree direction.

Are you wanting to do a drop in liner or attaching together first? If so what thickness leather outside and what sort of liner and thickness? Is the bag then fully self supporting or will it need any stiffeners anywhere? Just a note to make sure if your lid where it comes across is a little wider on the top.Strap and or handle attachments and lid closure need to be taken into account first.Regards Brian

I know I will regret saying this but I have found that I get a fair bit longer stitch by removing the plate that is around the stitch length lever. I was warned by a mechanic that this may make something in the machine be able to go tooo far but 10 years later I haven't found it to be a problem.I can only say that if you do it check carefully by hand turning it over that there is nothing that touches and you do it at your own risk. Sincerely Brian

Looks good. Only a suggestion is to bring your stitch at the back on the gusset up and over where it connects to the lid as it may what I call dog ear out. Oh and nice contrast with the edge coat. Brian

I think Sonydaze is correct about the going through the 3 thread holes being too much.Being so close together they would create a lot of drag without the tension discs and I cant say I have ever needed to run the thread through so many holes before.Bigger needle should not help though as that should only make it easier to pull the knot through even further. In your second picture the thread appears to be behind the disc guide for the thread tension return spring which would play havoc but in the other pics it looks like you may have it back into correct position.Maybe it works now? For what it is worth when the bobbin has that little thread on it it can start to get a little looser as well. Is the bobbin a good fit on its shaft as picture 9 makes the bobbin look like it is loose enough to touch the case edge. Hope there is an answer in there somewhere for you. Regards Brian

I can only think to suggest loading a couple of pics of the thread path and close in on the tension discs and spring. Also which direction does the bobbin spin when you pull thread through it?

If the top thread does not seem overly impeded coming through anywhere I would take of the top tension discs and make sure there is no little sharp bits that could be making it drag. A fine sand and polish can help as these discs dont rotate around and the one spot is all it takes.

Your right, don't you just hate that????? Just think what the cost would be pre digital photos and internet.

Looking pretty good so far.

I agree with Richard that if used correctly the double capped rivets work fine but I do have a big preference also to the brass type as in years of doing repairs I know the rust problem does show up in time.

Sorry to hear about the fuzzies staying. My answer from there would be to use a layer of edge coat first and iron it in. That will work but I am not familiar with the method that Wedgetail mentions and that just may suit you better. With regards to stitching the zips in using an awl although I rarely do hand stitching I have found that using a crepe rubber block to press into can help. Over here you can get what is termed an abrasive restorer which is great for cleaning sandpaper belts etcand is about 1.5" square by probably 6" long. I often cut off slices to clean up excess glue and as I said poking the awl into instead of my hand.

Personally I prefer a post bed machine for shoe uppers and with a fed roller foot ideally.Mind you a 345 at the right price is worth having anyway.As a shoe upper gets more into shape it is a lot easier on the post to manoeuvre around the top line as well as the heel counter area.

Welcome Ron.May your learning here be always fruitful and enjoyable.I will look forward to seeing your future projects.

We have several machines for doing handbags. You have already the large end of the range as do I, so I can only think that you need a smaller cylinder arm and perhaps a flat bed. I have a very nice Adler feed wheel post bed, but for bags it is not hardly ever used. A Pfaff 335 sized machine gets the most work on bags here but that is possibly due to the bag styles we mostly make. Check my web page to see the range and I can say that most of the products you see there at some stage go through the smaller cylinder. Not knowing exactly what you want to do bag wise it is hard to say and if you have some pictures that may help.

Me too