RockyAussie

I have a Fortuna and a FAV and they both have the blade run at a constant fast speed. The foot pedal allows the feed wheel to go at whatever speed you want just like your accelerator in a car does. You can if you want set them to be feeding at a constant feed speed as well. I did have a very old Fortuna and the bell on it only went along with the feed wheel and it was not very good. In all cases above there is only one motor and the feed is governed by a clutch. In this link you will see a video I made using my Fortuna, it should help. Regards Brian

I had a similar problem on mine and thought I would have to do a lot grinding and what not but to my surprise after taking pin out I found that it was just gummed up and jamming erratically.I cleaned the pin and gave all area's a good oiling and it has been good ever since.Another improvement then was achieved by setting up my foot lift so that when depressed it could not lift high enough to engage the pin. To get the pin to engage I then use the hand lift or a second stage hard push down foot lift.

Not sure how I will go yet but the needle foot would come out altogether and the back foot would do the pressing.

Thanks Tor, That looks pretty easy so it will go into my to do list as of now. Brian I hope it isn't a brain fart.With regards to that idea I am thinking of taking the front foot out and closing the back foot close together just off the needle then disconnecting the linkage that lifts the back foot so it becomes a pressure only foot. Although this impacts on the reliability of the feed it would allow for more intricate tight spacing work I think.The 331 Pfaff cylinder has this unison type feed and gets a lot more use than the 335 pfaff. I would like to have the advantage of bigger thread and a larger bobbin more. Brian

Thanks for posting Uwe. Do you think that the needle with that size hole won't deflect enough to miss stitches? I have been playing with the idea of slimming down a smooth feed dog to the needle foot width or less, and widening out the throat plate to suit.This would be to try and stop on thinner work the leather going down into the large hole so much (which can create miss stitches) and hopefully smooth out the jumpy feed nature when trying to do more intricate work. This would presumably help the needle deflection at a higher and longer section as well. What are your thoughts? Also playing with the idea of making it needle and dog feed only but that's another story. Regards Brian

Hi Mono, I had a quick look and found one in NSW for $6,000 so I would say the price would be very good for here in Aus around the $3.000. Found this video that might be of interest -

Do they make a walking foot zigzag machine and with that clearance?

I have not had the said problem on my 335 but have had on my 441 and although I had done a timing as per a video I found online, I found a more accurate method in a manual which did then solve the problem. 1/16" would be way to much removal I think also.This link may help-http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65098-pfaff-335-timing-issue/ or this one-http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/54120-help-timing-a-pfaff-335/ Best of luck Brian

You want to make wallets and I do plenty.Check my web site if it helps. I have a Adler post and for this job not much good as it will not allow a tight bend as you find in the middle of the wallet. For linings OK but a flat bed is way better for that purpose. A flat bed is not very good for getting any tight curves either.I have a 441 cowboy and the size of the cylinder let alone the unavailability of leather point needles below 160 makes it a poor choice for wallet work. As a single machine with good all-round capabilities I would make it a Pfaff 335 or one of its clones. If you can find one (nearly impossible) get a Pfaff 331 33/1b. It is not a walking foot but is a needle and dog feed that allows intricate through to fairly heavy work. We have just finished a run of tote bags that use this size of machine mostly and if you look at a couple of these pics you can see the heavy but intricate nature of work that is possible.Note: the stitching around the top edge would not be possible on a flat bed or post machine.

I think this would be a very good idea.

That is a very good one Eric. I would like to think that this could be a pinned post. As you know how many times almost every week this advice could be referred to here. Regards Brian

The use of any type of rivet will depend on how the stresses are applied to it, the same as any sewing thread as well. A line of stitches going close together across a strap will possible weaken it if the stresses on the strap are applied in the lengthwise direction, for instance most watch straps don't get stitched across for that reason.Now a linesman's pouch that holds a lot of tools gets the stresses applied more sideways and a rivet used in that way at the top of the threads will be far more effective than most threads could do alone. The strap attaching on a messenger bag would be improved in strength with even double sided rivets as the forces are applied mostly against the side of the stem of the rivet but would be better if stitched as well to assist any upward pulling on the rivet heads as might happen if lifting by 1 strap only in the wrong direction. I do not believe any rivet is only for decoration unless it is used in the wrong way. A couple of pics here may help. How long would this hold together without the rivets do you think. In this case tubular with washers at rear as well.

Thanks very much for the postings Eric. I was just wondering when the next instalment was going to come and presto,,, there it is already.

Other learning leather workers be warned before viewing this may discourage some as it is disgustingly good work from a beginner. Now at least he has to struggle to get any better........I hope .

The screw posts I did myself but the rivet badges I had made up by M&L badges as in this link.http://www.mandl.com.au/ Based in Western Australia.

I can only say ridiculously toooo cheap. You aim for a very high level in the products you make and some may not see the difference but I sure can. I get that you may see a similar looking thing being made up to sell with a knife in a store and you think that may have something to do with the price to charge. You are capable of doing high class work and it would be probably years before you get another similar job which by then it will take hours to realise you cant find that pattern etc etc. Charge out your worth or your time will get lost in doing anything at a unsustainable value.

There is NOOO way I would touch doing that for under $100 au (about $70.00 US) and like you I would still be losing on the patterning time heaps.If I am as equally stupid and slow I think it would take me 2 hours plus to get that pattern as is. Regards Brian

I have had badges made with screw backs and also the 2 piece speedy rivets but the base metal was brass. The speedy rivet ones first time made got soldered on and the solder filled up the stem. They would not compress down together and most got thrown out.Second time on they were careful not to let the solder go up the stem and they worked alright.

Its been awhile since I've made any boots but if your maker is in OZ he will know of a company called J.A.Brooks. http://www.jabrooks.com.au/ As they supply most anything for making and repairing shoes I would recommend the unsealed leather that is commonly used in surgical shoe making. If your feet do sweat a lot as mine have at times I have found putting 2 eyelet holes in the instep arch area works very well.(Not the sole but in the side of the shoe). As you walk air gets sucked in and out and keeps your feet dry unless you walk through water though. Regards Brian

Hi Christine, How much is your buget? If you are doing that much by hand I need you over here. Being in Europe I would look at the OMAC line of products.http://www.omacsrl.com/ I have several of their machines and found them mostly good. Clicking press and strap cutting machine would be my first buys along with a double edge belt edger. If your budget is bigger they have some very automated machinery which is above my knowledge and I get a bit dubious of machines that supposedly get too automated. I bought a single edge machine that takes it from the operator and runs a edge around etc but I found it quicker and easier with the non automated edging machines.If you need any help on how to set up the dies for clicking out let me know. Here is a picture of one of my typical knives and jigs for holding strap in place for use with a clicker press. Regards Brian

Looks pretty good so If the feed wheel rotates on its spindle without slop all should be ok. If there is no great play in the little shaft that holds the feed wheel then there should be no wobbles unless the feed wheel itself is not made right.(Can Happen) Best to test this without the drive shaft in place to be sure.The drive shaft looks like it wobbles even from new a bit but generally has no effect on the smoothness of the feed wheel rotation.Hope that makes some sense. Regards Brian

Thanks Jeanne. I hope you caught my post and video on the skiving machine roller.Check my You Tube if you haven't. You might want to follow as I have a heap more coming soon. The next one coming is on colour edging belts quickly by hand. I mostly use edging machines now but the rough edges on croc backstraps make finishing off by hand a better end result. Regards Brian

Looks like a great idea. A short pin attached to the shaft collar would help to hold the leather down and in place and allow multiple thicknesses of leather by simply rotating the collar around the shaft until the pin lightly touches the leather. Regards Brian

Hi Michelle, I would replace that drive shaft but as gigi said it may not be the cause of the wobble. I would put the thing back together without the shaft and try spinning the feed roller by hand to see if there are still wobbles. The shaft that the feed roller spins on is likely worn as well and need replacing. Also if it is a stone or rubber the feed wheel itself may need replacing as some operators can be known to adjust the feed wheel up and into the knife and do damage.Mostly though make sure there is no play in the knife up and down as if that is coming from the shaft that the knife attaches too, it may not be worth doing at all. Hope that helps Regards Brian

Just a tip to try. I have had the same thing happen more times than I care to admit but I have had success in removing the broken taps when they ended up level by using a Dremel cutting disc and cutting an Allen key to suit. Normally the 3 prongs end up at 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep. Works most times.