RockyAussie

Well done.

Here is a couple of pics of it for now. At the time there did not seem to be any machine specific for the job, about 20 years ago I'd guess.The tongue tips I do separately on a single edge machine.

This is a video of me doing the finish coat edging by hand on a large run of hornback belts.For a few years this is how all edging on my belts was done including the first coats and all. Although I have built an edging machine that does both sides at the same time, I find that the up and down edge on hornback is better finished by hand as shown.The pictures below shows one of the two racks I made for this purpose. I intend to do a couple more videos using the edging machines and other steps over the next few weeks. Follow me if you want notification updates. Regards Brian

Just found this in case it helps. http://www.sewingmachinery.com/seiko/seiko-LLW-8BL.html Regards Brian

If you want to let me know the Chinese machine models I could check them out but I would be very surprised if they would be making them with a blade and feed in sync still. I do recommend whatever model you get, getting one with an aspirator to help take the waste away. That is a suction device that normally takes the waste into a bin under the table and on the left via a tube under the bell. The picture below shows what I mean I think. Regards Brian

I have a Fortuna and a FAV and they both have the blade run at a constant fast speed. The foot pedal allows the feed wheel to go at whatever speed you want just like your accelerator in a car does. You can if you want set them to be feeding at a constant feed speed as well. I did have a very old Fortuna and the bell on it only went along with the feed wheel and it was not very good. In all cases above there is only one motor and the feed is governed by a clutch. In this link you will see a video I made using my Fortuna, it should help. Regards Brian

I had a similar problem on mine and thought I would have to do a lot grinding and what not but to my surprise after taking pin out I found that it was just gummed up and jamming erratically.I cleaned the pin and gave all area's a good oiling and it has been good ever since.Another improvement then was achieved by setting up my foot lift so that when depressed it could not lift high enough to engage the pin. To get the pin to engage I then use the hand lift or a second stage hard push down foot lift.

Not sure how I will go yet but the needle foot would come out altogether and the back foot would do the pressing.

Thanks Tor, That looks pretty easy so it will go into my to do list as of now. Brian I hope it isn't a brain fart.With regards to that idea I am thinking of taking the front foot out and closing the back foot close together just off the needle then disconnecting the linkage that lifts the back foot so it becomes a pressure only foot. Although this impacts on the reliability of the feed it would allow for more intricate tight spacing work I think.The 331 Pfaff cylinder has this unison type feed and gets a lot more use than the 335 pfaff. I would like to have the advantage of bigger thread and a larger bobbin more. Brian

Thanks for posting Uwe. Do you think that the needle with that size hole won't deflect enough to miss stitches? I have been playing with the idea of slimming down a smooth feed dog to the needle foot width or less, and widening out the throat plate to suit.This would be to try and stop on thinner work the leather going down into the large hole so much (which can create miss stitches) and hopefully smooth out the jumpy feed nature when trying to do more intricate work. This would presumably help the needle deflection at a higher and longer section as well. What are your thoughts? Also playing with the idea of making it needle and dog feed only but that's another story. Regards Brian

Hi Mono, I had a quick look and found one in NSW for $6,000 so I would say the price would be very good for here in Aus around the $3.000. Found this video that might be of interest -

Do they make a walking foot zigzag machine and with that clearance?

I have not had the said problem on my 335 but have had on my 441 and although I had done a timing as per a video I found online, I found a more accurate method in a manual which did then solve the problem. 1/16" would be way to much removal I think also.This link may help-http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65098-pfaff-335-timing-issue/ or this one-http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/54120-help-timing-a-pfaff-335/ Best of luck Brian

You want to make wallets and I do plenty.Check my web site if it helps. I have a Adler post and for this job not much good as it will not allow a tight bend as you find in the middle of the wallet. For linings OK but a flat bed is way better for that purpose. A flat bed is not very good for getting any tight curves either.I have a 441 cowboy and the size of the cylinder let alone the unavailability of leather point needles below 160 makes it a poor choice for wallet work. As a single machine with good all-round capabilities I would make it a Pfaff 335 or one of its clones. If you can find one (nearly impossible) get a Pfaff 331 33/1b. It is not a walking foot but is a needle and dog feed that allows intricate through to fairly heavy work. We have just finished a run of tote bags that use this size of machine mostly and if you look at a couple of these pics you can see the heavy but intricate nature of work that is possible.Note: the stitching around the top edge would not be possible on a flat bed or post machine.

I think this would be a very good idea.

That is a very good one Eric. I would like to think that this could be a pinned post. As you know how many times almost every week this advice could be referred to here. Regards Brian

The use of any type of rivet will depend on how the stresses are applied to it, the same as any sewing thread as well. A line of stitches going close together across a strap will possible weaken it if the stresses on the strap are applied in the lengthwise direction, for instance most watch straps don't get stitched across for that reason.Now a linesman's pouch that holds a lot of tools gets the stresses applied more sideways and a rivet used in that way at the top of the threads will be far more effective than most threads could do alone. The strap attaching on a messenger bag would be improved in strength with even double sided rivets as the forces are applied mostly against the side of the stem of the rivet but would be better if stitched as well to assist any upward pulling on the rivet heads as might happen if lifting by 1 strap only in the wrong direction. I do not believe any rivet is only for decoration unless it is used in the wrong way. A couple of pics here may help. How long would this hold together without the rivets do you think. In this case tubular with washers at rear as well.

Thanks very much for the postings Eric. I was just wondering when the next instalment was going to come and presto,,, there it is already.

Other learning leather workers be warned before viewing this may discourage some as it is disgustingly good work from a beginner. Now at least he has to struggle to get any better........I hope .

The screw posts I did myself but the rivet badges I had made up by M&L badges as in this link.http://www.mandl.com.au/ Based in Western Australia.

I can only say ridiculously toooo cheap. You aim for a very high level in the products you make and some may not see the difference but I sure can. I get that you may see a similar looking thing being made up to sell with a knife in a store and you think that may have something to do with the price to charge. You are capable of doing high class work and it would be probably years before you get another similar job which by then it will take hours to realise you cant find that pattern etc etc. Charge out your worth or your time will get lost in doing anything at a unsustainable value.