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RockyAussie

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Everything posted by RockyAussie

  1. At that weight I would 2.8mm may be alright. In saying that and looking at the leather in your other post and taking into account that getting the strap split any thinner would be a hassle.
  2. If it helps I bought a few of the needle dispensing bottles for just this task from HK similar to as in this link.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-1-OZ-bottles-with-stainless-needle-tip-dispenser-for-Grandfather-Clock-Oil-/120925943269
  3. 2.8mm seems pretty thick to me without seeing the camera and weight etc. A picture would help. I would think about 2 to 2.2 mm under the ring would be more about right normally. To get a really refined look I sometimes skive and join the 2 ends to end up at the some as strap thickness then sew it around in a complete circle. Make sure to put the ring in first and move it around as you sew. Once this is done either sew to close or rivet if you prefer.
  4. Just A and C assuming C is the other end of the strap. Many do none at all.
  5. Where is the thanks???Ohh and if I upset anybody whatever their gender ...........I don't care...... Without any thanks as often seems to be the case I think whatever the hat you wear the reason to try and help anyone seems a bit pointless. Simple.
  6. I believe this is a Fortuna model UA which I think handles as wide as 12". It is very similar in design to a Comoga that I have. For small leather goods they are a true asset but a bell skiver if you don't have one already would be first on my list. With a good roller foot you can do good splitting be that it may need several passes for wide pieces.. Beveling the edges and cutting in furrow lines etc are not so easily done with a splitter compared with a bell skiver. I expect to post some details and possibly a video on this application within the next 2 weeks.
  7. Excellent work Uwe as always. I had only assumed that it would or should have one. The one you have pictured on the left I have never seen the like of before and it is a scary looking little beast. Any chips on the outer edge of the bobbin would I think be a real headache.Thanks for your kind input.
  8. Just check also that the dished spring is still in the bobbin case back as it helps to stop the bobbin running too loose and untangling and so on. Brian
  9. Thanks Chief. I have just finished it off and here are some pics of it without a guitar unfortunately. Trust me applying and cutting the backing and then finish edging is a real challenge. Brian
  10. What gauge needle are you using? At that thickness it would need to be I think 200 or more. Just a guess. If you have gone down to a thinner needle your hook may need to be closer to the needle as well. I would carefully check the timing first before that as these machines get knocked out easily and will still work most of the time.
  11. The hook should be going above the eye and into the hollowed out section above the eye. This if it is as you say would indicate your timing is out.
  12. If it is on the bed mounted like what I currently have it is a pain as it has to be undone at times and the distance has to be reset when putting back into position. The swing down I have put on other machines does not need to be reset.
  13. Gator would normally be skived around the edges then fully glued and laid on top and pressed tight into the filler or bottom skived lining. This would normally then be second cut or trimmed before stitching.Hermes have a video on the tube if you check.
  14. Having a lot of years running a shoe/bag repair business a common request was to fix where the fabric had let go from the pocket. A problem often overlooked is that most tanning uses oils (fatliquors) as part of the process. The glue may stick very well until the oils eventually migrate and if you think you can stick glue to oil you could become very rich.Most of the time it goes sticky and just slimes off of the leather. Some leathers are better than others but some can be raggy and separate anyway.
  15. Nice lookin strap. Is it made to measure or have some hidden adjustments? I am making one for a base guitar at present and as it is backstrap croc I would prefer not to have more than 3 adjustment holes on the back smaller tail end.
  16. Very nice work there Uwe, I almost wish I needed a cap to do the same
  17. Picture doesn't show the stitching and so can't judge the needle type but If it stitches ok on a lighter weight leather and is not out of timing I'd try a 230/26 Lr or tri point. I used a 230 needle with my CB 441 in a heavy belt recently and it looked pretty good.
  18. Thanks, I will check them out. Would you have a pdf manual copy?
  19. Thanks, main thing is that the customer thinks so too.
  20. I have done up the patterns for the linesman's pouch to the best of my ability for A4 printing. Please let me know if there is any problems in printing and make sure that the printer is set to print 1 to 1 or full size. The new owner/ customer picked up the pouch yesterday and kindly posed for a couple of pics and he was very happy with the new pouch. Brian Linesmans pouch for A4 printing.pdf
  21. Nice looking machine. These have always been a favourite of mine and I still have 4 of them. They use very little floor space compared to most other sole stitches. Only problem has been getting hold of the presser foot wear block. When it wears off on too much on an angle on the right it makes missed stitches a problem. I found replacing them with a new one makes a world of difference. The one in your pictures looks still good. If you can help with finding this part at a reasonable price I would be very grateful. Regards Brian
  22. I have for years had a preference to using the thread in this pdf attachment.shann_Strongbond_spec_sheet.pdf I have over the years tried a lot of threads and this has always given the least sewing problems. Unfortunately here in Australia they only stock black and white in the 277 range.
  23. OK. I will draw up a couple of ways and sizes with a lot of measurements.
  24. Will do tonight if I can. The only thing is the A3 printer I use is not long enough for the larger piece in length in one hit. I had to print out and cut the top and join. So I am wondering what is a paper size to put it on? A3+ should work but is that tits on a bull for most people? Regards Brian
  25. Cant say for sure as I've had it a while. It appears to be a chrome tanning, quite compressed with a possibly urethane top coat. I tried casting with it a while back in hot soapy water and whatever I tried it just dripped the water off and laughed at me. I did manage to cast a gun pouch with it but that took some extreme pressure. I have to say bending sheet metal is probably easier and I don't think I will be any hurry to use it again. The fact I got away with stitching it on this CB 441 at this hardness and thickness did surprise me.
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