RockyAussie

That is some real handy information Uwe as always. I like the look a lot of the 205-64 as I am not a big fan of walking foot machines believe it or not. With the use of a and Variostop needle positioner and pneumatic foot lifter I can comfortably work very close to the edge of gussets and such and lift just when I want with the foot. Much of my work is done on an obsolete Pfaff 331-33/1b and although I have a couple of cylinder walking foot Adler and Pfaff they get get used very little in comparison.Check out my homemade foot for it in pic below.The larger size of the 205-64 and Cowboy/Hightex 7205W64 does make me think I will have to go and pay Steve at Singermania a visit sometime soon. Just about a 3 hour drive away I guess. Thanks again for your helpful sharing. Regards Brian. PS. Local paper did a story on our business this week see in link if you like- http://www.themorningbulletin.com.au/news/rocky-leather-factory-launches-high-end-retail-sto/3124263/#/9

Looks not too bad AussieMade and a good share with the pattern as well. Merry Christmas.

SHHHHHHush we been trying to keep quite about them

OK , I have not seen before the curly thread thing on the bobbin case so I dug in around the back of a 40' shipping container and took some somewhat dark pics on one I haven't used in a good while. By the dog foot I mean the foot with the groove in it as I have pictured in the 2nd pic. Just also check your back foot is coming down level with the base as you may not be getting the pressure down right as the needle is lifting out.Your picture looks like it is angled high at the front.

I reckon yes And isn't the Adelaide hills and a Bonnie one of the best in the world feelings. Was better back when they had a few more bends though.

I still think the thread looks wrong but is it possible to post a close up pic of the feet and in particular the dog foot. I am curious about the relief slot for the bobbin thread to follow and position in. I did a major improvement once by hollowing out more for the thicker thread and angling a bit at the same time.Just a thought if the next size down thread in bobbin is out of the question. Also is it a Tri or LR needle? If it is a round point you have no hope.

First step I would try is use the next size down thread in your bobbin. This will make it easier for the top tension to pull it up into place and look better. 2. I think the the thread looks a bit twisty and I suspect hard firm so maybe think of a thread change. 3. If the leather is stiff and hard consider can you use a softer lining. Brian

EASY- Figure out what it is you want to make and if you want to make it occasionally or in a business like way.Then ask here there and everywhere but especially people who do it already which they think is the most suitable for that job and WHY?. That done divide it all up and let us know the conclusion as many very good people here have tried to do for you. PS. I can think of over a hundred different types of machines that do very different jobs and applications and to know and explain the intricacy's of each would take up a a lot of space and time for why?

I think you have done very well for your first set and I would say keep at it, particularly if you find it fun and easy as you said. I am often amazed to see schools and video"s showing a person holding in their lap a last whilst trying to pull the upper into shape and nail as well. I have just gone down and dug out of storage a Lasting Jack which if you can get your hands on one will make the job a whole lot more fun and easy. The base allows turning 360 and the spring keeps pressure on firmly all through the process. The mirrors I added to the base in order to see the upper was locating correctly while pulling the upper around with the lasting pliers. Regards Brian

It all sucks really

Not a machine I know anything about but found this older posting which you may have missed. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/49686-singer-153-w-103-timing-info/ May be of some help.Regards Brian

If you can smell it chances are it's not going to be good for you, a bit like smoke and fire. Here are a few idea's I have used that should help and compared to your health costs are very inexpensive. The first and second pics for dust is a good sized extractor which I have located just alongside and outside which services several machines. The third and forth pic shows what can be done with a bit of perspex and a piano hinge. This takes care of the majority of dust and the wall fan extractor takes care of any smaller floaties that escape. The fifth pic shows what can be done for a drum sander with a bit of pvc plumbing pipe and araldite. This works very well and has lasted for many years and thousands of belts. The sixth pic shows a simple piece of vacuum pipe ground out close to grinding stone and this also works very well. For glue I run flexible ducting up to the ceiling and out and this keeps the main glue fumes dragged away from the operator similar to as it is used in a welding extractor. I hope this will be of some use and encourage some of you to enjoy their leather working skills in to a good long and healthy age. Regards Brian

Nice looking machine but I see a Fortuna behind with what I think looks like a full bell. What may I ask was the need to retire it?

I would cut a shape from a firm but still flexible plastic similar in shape to your one with the insert but a bit larger and sandwich it in between the layers.At a pinch a folder from office supplies will work. Some would use a cardboard of sorts but if it gets bent it may show.

In the first pic below ,this glue machine has had a motor and gearbox change. I find it best to use an extraction vent close by to keep fumes down and a small fan to aid in motor cooling. This machine can run up to 3 full days per week. This type can adjust up and down for leather thickness and can have a varying spring pressure. The glue thickness can be varied as well.This type would be good for a light application on your folded strap work. The second+third pic is a straight edge hand folder which I have modified to foot operation in order to use both hands on the held in piece and enable way faster operation. This machine is good for thick and thin work and putting down high pressure. Mostly good for folded edge wallet type work. The last pic is a folder that I use when doing hundreds of credit card pocket top folds as it is heated and reactivated the glue which can be applied a day or so before. Also it puts in a crease line at top for better appearance. Here in these links are some similar machines-https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/glue-cementing-machines/ict-60-series-solvent-cement-machines/ https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/folding-machines/model-450rc-600rc-linear-folding-machine/ https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/folding-machines/model-r350-r500/ In case its of interest they have a Camogo CN411 splitter 2nd hand at moment and if you are getting serious about setting up I would take a look at that if you don't have already. Man I wish they were here in Australia. Regards Brain

Is just beautiful

I have several OMAC machines and mostly found them good. A couple of glue machines and a couple of straight line folders although I have made some modifications to make more useful.I would recommend the adjustable guide model I think as even on some leathers as much as .1mm in thickness can make a piece difficult to slide through and just opening or closing a tweak would be a real advantage. If you get one please post some pics off. Regards Brian

Ok I've got you some pics but I would probably buy a manufactured machine if under $2000 but all the same it would want to be doing a lot of work to warrant that amount. The metal folding, roller and guillotine machine is quite cheap being about $350 au and is likely cheaper over there. The back roller would need to come out and that is easily done. The main trick here is making up the right size folder tool for the job wanted. In the case here a piece of round stock drilled through and funnelled at the front with either a lathe or a reshaped drill bit would work.A cut through at the top and a bit of hacksaw blade ground down soldered in to assist in keeping central and its mostly done. Hope that helps a bit. Regards Brian

I'm curious just what sort of machine you think you need to fold this leather into straps. For the money you're talking I would like to see the machines. Here is a link to one from Campbell Randall which I wonder would do. https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/folding-machines/star-3000-strap-edge-folder/ At any rate there is some pretty simple machines and devices for doing this job, and they are not all that hard to make, could you perhaps show a picture of how you do it now? I assume you want them glued first to hold together when run through folded and pressed. Does this machine do all this as well?. I can take some pics of a very simple one here if you want. I only bother to roll stuff through it by hand but it can be attached to a motor as well. Regards Brian

If you got nothing to lose I'd try soaking in some soapy water for a day or so and then see if it peels of easily while while still just a bit damp. Most contacts over time can let go fairly easily if damp. The glue mostly will stick with one or the other, my guess would be the shark but you can sand that off. Regards Brain

Great to see someone else playing with this stuff. I am thinking you used pla as if it were abs, you would have smoothed it out with acetone. Did you go full solid? I find the 3D printer most useful when making block moulds and such as I can just keep printing out the same mould over and over any time I want.Here's a couple of pics to show what I mean.The hours I lost to make this stuff in wood and stuff and repetitively was incredible. Keep on sharing Regards Brian

Another reason possibly is that often snake has to have joins to get the full belt length which is often just skived, glued and overlapped. If the backing is a bit soft and stretchy, as the furry edges make me suspect then the extra stretch would make the join likely to undo. By putting in an extra line he may have thought that, that would reduce the stretching.

Yes I would generally do the skiving after the edging then apply a little heat if necessary to pull back to shape and touch up edges if required. A tapered strap is quite common for wrist straps I think to accommodate a smaller buckle but sometimes the right buckle can be used, it really depends on the weight of the buckle and peoples taste. Taking the top picture I put in and making a veg centre piece or whatever might be a way to use up the 5/8" straps.Here is a similar use in one I've made for watch bands etc.

Hi Bikermutt07, Firstly I don't know about how others do it as I am entirely self taught but I would normally finish my edging before applying the buckles and then touch up after. 5/8" sounds a bit narrow for most men to me.Getting the length right on a wristband is pretty difficult but what I have come up with works for most. When doing a buckle style as shown in the picture I do one at 7 1/2" at centre hole which does small men and most ladies, and one at 8 1/2" which covers most men. Another idea is a link style that allows you to remove links to suit. Mostly for ladies I think but I don't know for sure.Other than that if using snaps etc the lengths I use go from about 6" to 8 1/4" in 3/4" jumps. Reckon that bout covers it. Regards Brian