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RockyAussie

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  1. RockyAussie
    Nice looking machine but I see a Fortuna behind with what I think looks like a full bell. What may I ask was the need to retire it?
  2. RockyAussie
    I would cut a shape from a firm but still flexible plastic similar in shape to your one with the insert but a bit larger and sandwich it in between the layers.At a pinch a folder from office supplies will work. Some would use a cardboard of sorts but if it gets bent it may show.
  3. RockyAussie
    In the first pic below ,this glue machine has had a motor and gearbox change. I find it best to use an extraction vent close by to keep fumes down and a small fan to aid in motor cooling. This machine can run up to 3 full days per week. This type can adjust up and down for leather thickness and can have a varying spring pressure. The glue thickness can be varied as well.This type would be good for a light application on your folded strap work. The second+third pic is a straight edge hand folder which I have modified to foot operation in order to use both hands on the held in piece and enable way faster operation. This machine is good for thick and thin work and putting down high pressure. Mostly good for folded edge wallet type work. The last pic is a folder that I use when doing hundreds of credit card pocket top folds as it is heated and reactivated the glue which can be applied a day or so before. Also it puts in a crease line at top for better appearance. Here in these links are some similar machines-https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/glue-cementing-machines/ict-60-series-solvent-cement-machines/ https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/folding-machines/model-450rc-600rc-linear-folding-machine/ https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/folding-machines/model-r350-r500/ In case its of interest they have a Camogo CN411 splitter 2nd hand at moment and if you are getting serious about setting up I would take a look at that if you don't have already. Man I wish they were here in Australia. Regards Brain
  4. RockyAussie
    Is just beautiful
  5. RockyAussie
    I have several OMAC machines and mostly found them good. A couple of glue machines and a couple of straight line folders although I have made some modifications to make more useful.I would recommend the adjustable guide model I think as even on some leathers as much as .1mm in thickness can make a piece difficult to slide through and just opening or closing a tweak would be a real advantage. If you get one please post some pics off. Regards Brian
  6. RockyAussie
    Ok I've got you some pics but I would probably buy a manufactured machine if under $2000 but all the same it would want to be doing a lot of work to warrant that amount. The metal folding, roller and guillotine machine is quite cheap being about $350 au and is likely cheaper over there. The back roller would need to come out and that is easily done. The main trick here is making up the right size folder tool for the job wanted. In the case here a piece of round stock drilled through and funnelled at the front with either a lathe or a reshaped drill bit would work.A cut through at the top and a bit of hacksaw blade ground down soldered in to assist in keeping central and its mostly done. Hope that helps a bit. Regards Brian
  7. RockyAussie
    I'm curious just what sort of machine you think you need to fold this leather into straps. For the money you're talking I would like to see the machines. Here is a link to one from Campbell Randall which I wonder would do. https://www.campbell-randall.com/machines/leather-goods-machines/folding-machines/star-3000-strap-edge-folder/ At any rate there is some pretty simple machines and devices for doing this job, and they are not all that hard to make, could you perhaps show a picture of how you do it now? I assume you want them glued first to hold together when run through folded and pressed. Does this machine do all this as well?. I can take some pics of a very simple one here if you want. I only bother to roll stuff through it by hand but it can be attached to a motor as well. Regards Brian
  8. RockyAussie
    If you got nothing to lose I'd try soaking in some soapy water for a day or so and then see if it peels of easily while while still just a bit damp. Most contacts over time can let go fairly easily if damp. The glue mostly will stick with one or the other, my guess would be the shark but you can sand that off. Regards Brain
  9. RockyAussie
    Great to see someone else playing with this stuff. I am thinking you used pla as if it were abs, you would have smoothed it out with acetone. Did you go full solid? I find the 3D printer most useful when making block moulds and such as I can just keep printing out the same mould over and over any time I want.Here's a couple of pics to show what I mean.The hours I lost to make this stuff in wood and stuff and repetitively was incredible. Keep on sharing Regards Brian
  10. RockyAussie
    Valet Tray Prototype
    Nice looking work I'm getting tempted to make one but maybe with snaps in the corners. Not sure why, maybe to make keeping clean easier.
  11. RockyAussie
    Another reason possibly is that often snake has to have joins to get the full belt length which is often just skived, glued and overlapped. If the backing is a bit soft and stretchy, as the furry edges make me suspect then the extra stretch would make the join likely to undo. By putting in an extra line he may have thought that, that would reduce the stretching.
  12. RockyAussie
    Yes I would generally do the skiving after the edging then apply a little heat if necessary to pull back to shape and touch up edges if required. A tapered strap is quite common for wrist straps I think to accommodate a smaller buckle but sometimes the right buckle can be used, it really depends on the weight of the buckle and peoples taste. Taking the top picture I put in and making a veg centre piece or whatever might be a way to use up the 5/8" straps.Here is a similar use in one I've made for watch bands etc.
  13. RockyAussie
    Hi Bikermutt07, Firstly I don't know about how others do it as I am entirely self taught but I would normally finish my edging before applying the buckles and then touch up after. 5/8" sounds a bit narrow for most men to me.Getting the length right on a wristband is pretty difficult but what I have come up with works for most. When doing a buckle style as shown in the picture I do one at 7 1/2" at centre hole which does small men and most ladies, and one at 8 1/2" which covers most men. Another idea is a link style that allows you to remove links to suit. Mostly for ladies I think but I don't know for sure.Other than that if using snaps etc the lengths I use go from about 6" to 8 1/4" in 3/4" jumps. Reckon that bout covers it. Regards Brian
  14. RockyAussie
    Location may help Howard. If you were near Rockhampton Australia I would do one split fox nix. Many others here may do likewise. Regards Brian
  15. RockyAussie
    No special tools needed really, They will just hammer in together. The pics may be a little better looking than original as I polished the tops a bit first. This then started to show the copper coat layer and to get a really good look they would need to be re-plated. The supplier is from Australia and is mostly a wholesaler but the company is Marish Accessories in Melbourne.http://www.marishaccessories.com.au/index.html The ones I've used are the smaller 14mm tops and if want just a few pm me a postal location if that helps. I would think if your in the US - Ohio Travel would have them.Regards Brian
  16. RockyAussie
    Hard to say the value from the pics shown. I think that the edges could do with a bit better burnishing or edging as I think it looks a bit hairy there. Other than that I think looks pretty good.Regards Brian
  17. RockyAussie
    Hi EfrainBG, I have used these before but take into account that there is a lot more to consider in the hole size than there is in a Sam Brown stud. Some pics in this pdf file should help to explain. Hope that helps. Regards Brian Hornback button wristband.pdf
  18. RockyAussie
    They are always tooo small I think, but like yourself some of the best work comes from the person rather than the place.
  19. RockyAussie
    The principle reminds me a lot of a docking saw when I was wood machining. The stopper would make a big difference of course as to the speed of repetitive cutting. I think a tape measure on the back fence would be quicker and easier to do, but mostly we used to make up template lengths to more quickly set the fence stop. One of the main ways I make belts is after edge finishing etc, is to dock them to length and then finish of the end.(Note picture) Cutting a 100 keepers quickly to a set length from a long strip would be an advantage. At present I do keepers cutting with a clicker press and I think this docking tool would be far faster to set and cut. It may need an adjustable bolt along the top or bottom arms to stop the blade from going to deeply. I would be interested to buy if you care to sell any. Some pics and measurement would be good if you prefer not to make. Regards Brian
  20. RockyAussie
    Don't forget that the speed of repetitive cutting with a good tool would likely pay for itself quite quickly.
  21. RockyAussie
    Very good idea and I must say your attention to detail looks very good as well. How much testing have you done and does the wood piece hold up well? Are you selling them or plans? Best regards Brian
  22. RockyAussie
    Hi Nu, Here if it helps is a bag Hanger that I came up with a fair while ago. I have attached a pdf file that if printed on A4 should be true to size. The main advantage with this is it can allow the belt to be taken on and off a long run of belts without taking the holder off. The size marking on it helps to keep the belts to go back in the right order as well. I normally supply these to my customers a range of for a around a couple of $ each. Between 2 and 3mm Veg works well. Also there is a bit of room for your logo as well. The last picture shows what you can do with an old shopping trolley as shown here welded to my garage door. Regards Brian Belt hangerl (2).pdf
  23. RockyAussie
    Yeah well I guess that's what they are for. But ..... I may have not given them long enough a time to test out fully. I better go and do it again dammit.
  24. RockyAussie
    Thanks SamB. I'm sure the next video has got to be better if not as much fun product testing at least. Regards Brian
  25. RockyAussie
    Thanks Bill. I think I tested them pretty good but let me know if you're coming down under and I'll get a new batch ready.
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