RockyAussie
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Everything posted by RockyAussie
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If you put your pointer over the duck picture and clicking on it, it will show my profile and you can just keep on looking back from there. Other than that mostly the product I make is on other businesses web sites. I am working on a few how I make type things at the moment and hope to post a few on here soon. Here below see some of the variety of products I get to make up.
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Very good work. The attention to detail on your edging is excellent. From what country are you may I ask? I mostly work with porosus skin and am happy to swap notes whenever you like. Brain
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Try packing it with cards untill firm and leave for a couple of days or stick into the fridge overnight. The example leather looks a little firmer but could be packed a bit before picture taken and may have some lining as well.
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Best machine-sewing video tutorials?
RockyAussie replied to soccerdad's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Man, that just keeps you on the edge of your seat. The suspense and the tension just keep building but that sewing machine held together and just kept in going. The ventilated leather trick was a bonus throw in and the magnetic guide thing, well what can I say!!!. I think he could have done even better if his front foot was an open one and he could see a little better when he reversed stitched, but he could perhaps improve on his attention to detail a bit. It's great when people like Vince go to such efforts to share their knowledge and in such detail. Like Mikesc above said, Im ready for my lie down now as I already had my drink. -
Solingen round knife from Abbey England
RockyAussie replied to Hydrangeaceae's topic in Leather Tools
I have a couple of similar looking knives and I have found that the blade inside the handle is only held in by some sort of paste/glue stuff. Over a lot of years one finally come totally loose and I pulled it out and the Paste was crumbly and could shake out. It is possible that this one has improved that problem. -
T slots went to his head I guess cheers Brian
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Stuff the straws, a beer'l do on a hot sunny Sunday and a mate to enjoy it with
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If I were trying to work this all out I would start with a strip about an inch wide and duplicate the measurements you think and stitch it up. The piping will release some tension and could look better but not if you do not have experience on how to do. Practice on something smaller first.If the front is 14" wide then my guess would be 14 and 1/4" at the top and closer to 1/8" bigger at bottom. By that I mean the top will need more room than the bottom in width. Not sure though as the leather stretch if stiff will be more and less if soft. Stitch is a bit of same problem but I'd go 5mm or 3/16"+. Too close to the edge will make the stitching show a lot and be weak.
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The Line marking machine shown here burnishes in the line only. The little polished wheel spins faster than the product feeds through. The PDF pattern here of the card holder should be useful for a pattern for inside wallets cards as well. Was the wetting really necessary? Glue and water seldome mix. Brian
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Hi Darren, I am interested in a price if you would prefer to, you could pm me. regards Brian
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Yea as always drowning in it and they try and get me to spend money and advertise.
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Here are some key steel trimming pics and a tip for skiving the corners. Whatever the thickness at the corner is angle the knife so as to leave behind about the same thickness. Also in the pdf file I have printed patterns as for the card holder in the picture here. If you print true to size they should be about right I think. Let me know otherwise. Regards Brian. Center pocket Business Card Holder.pdf
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Something else that should help. It is controlled with a light dimmer switch. I mean the soldering iron. Not much control otherwise.
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Back again. Here see some pics of my line marking machine. By pulling handle at back down you can put the product in up against the guide which can be adjusted. The pressure of roller can be increased by the knob up on top. The masking tape is over bottom feed roller to reduce teeth marking. As not a lot of people have these I have shown how to achieve similar with a cow horn folder. These may look different than some as I make quite a few for various purposes. I recommended a wooden ruler for this as a steel ruler can leave unwanted marks on veg skin. I'll do the key steel trimming in the next post along with some patterns showing the t style a bit.
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Hi YinTx, I will get some done up and post a bit later but Key steel is the steel used in key ways in pulleys etc. Normally sold about 1 foot long and mostly square but rectangular sizes are there as well.
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I hope your not serious about not doing any more. I think it shows a pretty good progression. I would have liked the card pockets to have a 1/4" or so drop in T style but if thinning is a problem I guess its Ok for now. Next when I trim the outer skin before folding I use a about 1/4" key steel to put against the edge.Careful not to slice any fingertips off. Once this is trimmed off nice and straight (if a bit fluffy singe it off with a lighter)I then colour it before folding. When folding by hand pull firmly over the part that is thickest first then hold back a bit on where it is thinnest.Takes a fair bit of practice to get looking straight but I will see it and continue to point it out if you don't. If you don't already have a roller line marker use a wooden ruler and with your bone slicker rub up and down barely touching the folded edge. Makes it look a bit straighter. Best Regards Brian
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Hi mikesc, Thanks again for your kind help. It is near 8pm here and I'm a bit stuffed as I've been working all day as usual. I will look into these sites hard tomorrow but I really would appreciate any help you can come up with on this rubber or foam. I do import fairly regularly fabric from Italy (Tabru) , and fittings etc as well so the freight costs are not any surprise to me. Thanks again Regards Brian
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Thanks again mikesc. The Australian suppliers I've been all over several times and the only 1 that will even talk about 1mm wants 5000 metres. That is a bit to much I'm afraid for me and I was hoping to find a more industry related reseller perhaps. I have found the EVA foam link in Taiwan before and have not as yet tried them. If nobody has any better suggestions I will let you know how I go. Thanks again for your effort and kind Regards Brian
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Cutting shoulders straight in quicker time
RockyAussie replied to RockyAussie's topic in How Do I Do That?
Hi Floyd, I would be interested myself but the cutting part per shoulder would be only about 30 seconds per sheet if I take out the handling on and off the table and lining up etc. It actually took one of my staff longer to unwrap them and lay them on a table then the cutting part of the job.The beauty of the round knife is that I only needed to polish on a rag wheel with Tripoli twice on this lot. I am always looking for easier and quicker ways but I am dubious whether the rotary knife would work long term wise. I did get a Good improvement on time on the next step today by changing the strap cutters motor pulley from a 2 1/2" up to a 4".This gave a 60% quicker cutting time. . I have also changed the speed setting on the splitter and so far is going well but unfortunately I figga I still got maybe another 3 or so hours there to go. Be a lot better if it wasn't for my main competitor in the belt area.(love these little faces) -
No. Not with a slot. It is best to use a hole that fits a little tightly with the ball. If the leg that the ball is on the end of angles back a fair way they are not to big a problem but if straight, make the hole quite tight.
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Thanks for the tip mikesc. I've had a quick look and can can't find where Tyvek is used in this aplication. EVA foam is a sort of rubbery foam that has a good memory. If you squeeze it, it springs back a bit like rubber thongs do. Does Tyvek behave like this? The application I want it for is as a supple stiffener and padding inside bags and purses and such.
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Maybe you will have to try colouring the veg yourself. Just think romaxoma as I have found, the more difficult the things are and the more you find the solutions the better than others you will become. Truly I'm not Putin you on (Sorry I could not help that one)
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Wow!!! that is one handy site to have with such a well laid out and huge range. Thank you Constabulary. Would you have any clue's as to where I may obtain 1 and 2mm eva (I think) foam as used in bag and purse linings?
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Cutting shoulders straight in quicker time
RockyAussie replied to RockyAussie's topic in How Do I Do That?
It is a high density polyethylene as shown in following link. Could not spell it like a lot of things so looked it up and found this. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23751&catid=705 I first starting using this type of material years ago when I made shoe orthotics and such. Due to it being thermo mouldable I found it to also be useful in casting outer shells for leather moulding cases and such.Being a slippery type of surface it is great for repetitive work leaving no scratches and marks etc.
