RockyAussie

Looks beautiful...I'm jealous. I think we will be seeing some serious products very soon.Let me know if you need to know anything about its use.

I would ask that you let us know what the model numbers of the machines you are wanting. I have in my collection of machines a twin needle which can sew with one needle as well but the twin is to a single bobbin and designed to do a pull up effect on the top of the vamp and even slice it if required as well. Not knowing your knowledge of machines it is therefore best if we are playing with the full deck.

While you're in Victoria if possible check out H.Leffler and sons. They have more hardware and leather than you could imagine.

I would have thought the cb227r was more suitable for heavier bag work but possibly a bit short in the arm sometimes. For wallets I would favour the artisan 335b. From what I see it looks like a very useful machine but not for heavier holsters and such. My preference would be go with the 335b and go up to 4500 in order to cover most bases.

Re the splitter. I had one like your's once and I was most happy when some one payed me half of what I paid for it. Don,t get me wrong as for saddlery type of operations they can be good but for bag work and such they are IMOP a waste of space. A Comoga or Albiko band knife splitter are both good machines and I would urge you to try and get one. With croc or aligator work mostly you could do a fair amount without one but for wallets and purses if you want to do the insides you would need one for sure. A splitter here with 5 people in total runs between 1 and 2 days a week. Can I see a pic of your consew and the presser feet as I only have a FAV and a Fortuna at present. Doe's it have waste suction on it?

Very good choice of skiver. Post us some pics when you get it with the presser feet as well. From what I just looked up it appears to be the same as one I have and it is my favorite.Mine is branded Fortuna SAS though. Here is the link to what I just checked. It would be great if you get a roller foot like shown in this link.http://www.pressdepo.com/machine/en-42061/fortuna-50-pu-ag

The lacing looks well done but would look better if it went right around. I would not not not use sheepskin in an application such as this. Get a bit and see how easy it is to rip. Regards Brian

Leave the leather under some strong lighting for a few days. That is generally the worst thing that some shops do with products and believe me what it can do to a product is sometimes unbelievable.Nice hat and I agree the orange is a great choice. Like a corset that should be fun to make.

The picture you have given is a bit short to go by but it looks to me that every 6 to 7 stitches you are having a too tight pull with the bobbin. This could be by the thread cone being a bit offset and going loose as it straightens up every now again. Sometimes when cones get close to finished they can do this a bit also. If you don't have a second bobbin case to try take a picture inside of the case and see if you can see any burring anywhere.(And post it). If the bobbins have a slot for loading the thread these can get caught a bit every time they pass the burr or whatever. A bobbin being pulled by hand may seem smooth but push and hold the bobbin down into the case and then see if it still pulls smooth and doesn't grab. Next if the tension disk for the bobbin winder is too tight the threads can pull into the other thread and wind on badly but that would be more intermittent i think. Could slip spray have gott on to 1 side of the cone? Bugger of a problem sometimes.Regards Brian

Nice looking machine and with the needle positioning system you should be going great in no time at all. It is a shame you have to cut out a large section of that nice table for your bag work to get the clearance. I switch a lot between the 20 and 40 and 60 threads and I keep separate bobbin cases for each to cut out the need to adjust the bobbin spring each change time. Have you got a bell skiver machine yet? Regards Brian

Let us know how you go.

Yep that should work fine but don't let the blade get near the glue layer of course. Note: make sure that the to be wasted piece is very even in thickness or your thin piece will vary similarly.Have you tried the thicker piece without glueing? I do that sometimes but with a longer piece due to the top going in faster than the bottom piece.

Do you have to get the contacted pieces apart after it is split? They would be well pressed together and I would expect a lot of top surface damage. The site MonicaJacobson mentions advertises the Dublin and Essex as well. Regards Brian

I hate to say it but even with my best band knife splitter i have unreliable results if trying to take off any less than .3mm. A bell knife skiver can do pretty good for splitting if you have a good one and know how to set it up well. Failing that maybe consider this alternative below. It is a Multi tool sander I have modified for heavy sanding purposes mostly. Best of luck.

A thicker piece will enable you to get a thin piece thinner but why would you contact cement it? Would you not have trouble getting it off? Why not just use thicker leather to start with to split? Maybe your last sentence has somethin in it?

Thanks Bob, That's a lot of floor space to have for something that looks like it doesn't cut right through that well. I doubt it would be much quicker than my clicker press cutting and the rough cutting edges left would make many products pieces more trouble to fix up later. I presume it is a swivelling knife cutter that if set deeper would eventually tear up the cutting surface.

Hi again jakc3. What sort of sewing machine are you using?

How is the cutting done MandyChai? I can not see any link.

Hey Dikman sent a pm with post tracking number. Regards Brian

Very nice looking work gigi. I have no worries with doing my belts without folded edges or stitching with the contact glue and the edging I use. I have to go get dinner or wife will kill me but see belt as I make over a 100 per week and have no problems with. The glue can be sprayed or through machine or brushed on as see pics.

Do you not mean, a lining that does not come off at the edges? Sorry I am confused.

WOW that is a lot of very nice stitching. I hope the jewellery your wife got is very good. I guess that is turkey feet burned in under the flap. I hope his feet didn't get too hot. Great work, hope to see more.

Hi gigi, myself I use a solvent base contact glue which is commonly used in the shoe repair trade for attaching soles. The edging is also very good for not separating apart. But I would still prefer the stitching for extra security and the band above was done as a prototype to arrive at the desired shape and structure.Here see some ostrich watches and bands I did a while back and they are folded edge. I would not dream of using this method without stitching.The face skin I had to split down to .3mm and the failure rate was pretty bad.

How I would tackle it is in the following link. should help