RockyAussie

I would try and get something like you would find for sale at the moment in LeatherLeagon profile page. I think it would be more versatile and a lot stronger. Shame he won't ship I'd buy it myself.

That is one very nice looking patcher. If it goes like it looks its worth a lot more.I don't know how you could come to selling it Ferg Sorry.

I cant believe I see no questions in regards to buy. If it were over here I would already be on your doorstep. Must be the GFC or something.

Firstly thanks SamB and Matt S for the positive feedback.That's not so easy to answer as the names here are different to what most would know. The Ares (italia) S.r.l. would be the main one but to get the huge colour range I mostly use the clear AR 6350 Neutro Denso and mix in pigments to get my own colours. In the U.S. the Fenice range would be the same I think and available from Campbell Randal. I commend them for having a decent colour card etc on the products unlike most. Also I use another that would be similar to the Giardini range and is good in some other respects. I need a lot of various colours and high quality properties as I hope the pics below show some. The mix is about 90% water and only to seal and colour the raw edging of the pulls in this case. It mostly absorbs in in this case and does the job well.

This technique could be done with a hand punch if the die were made in that way in case you do not yet have a clicker press. When a zip pull tag is so small it is difficult to work on in so many ways and can be very hard to do in a short time frame. I hope for budding manufactures this will be of some help. If some think that this type of thing is not the right place in this forum please let me know and I will delete it if possible. If you think it is suitable please say so and I will proceed to show more.

Nice stitching and edging not to bad, can you not get an invisible cap under the lid piece?

Now if we can just put the die grinder or dremmel into the tool post of the lathe.....

Hi again Wedgetail, I gave them a call this am and if you go up and talk to Terry and you are only buying Raw materials he will help you. Remind him of this conversation and if any worries let me know. Regards Brian.

Welding/metalwork I would say no more. Check on google for the patent, that is fairly easy. If you cant find it after a heavy search then a patent application is not that dear. If approved you then have something to sell or license.Keep in mind if you can get a good batch done and the cost is affordable than many would buy from you anyway and the cost of patent is often debatable anyway. If you have not the money to protect the patent then better to you the money to swamp the market as best you can and they cant patent it if it is already common knowledge. Get my drillft.

Have you looked at Toowoomba saddlery? I have found their service very good.

Maybe chuck that square away. Do you wear glasses when cutting? that can distort things a fair bit unless your looking straight down. If you pull knife toward you curl in at the end a bit and if you push away curl in a bit. The knife will veer away as the thinner piece gets close to coming off. Have fun

What type of snaps are you talking about, do they have a trade name?

In what area of leather work does this tool help with? Is it a hand tool or a machine or marketing?

Over here they generally want the patterns cut in a light thin colour cardboard or you are up for big $$ extra. One has Cad cutting capabilities but is to exy anyways. Over here they generally want the patterns cut in a light thin colour cardboard or you are up for big $$ extra. One has Cad cutting capabilities but is to exy anyways.

nrk Google Texon board insole

Nice pics of what the culprit has done but none of the culprit? Please see below one of my skivers that is now in need of a sharpen. Take no notice of the brass roller that is just something I made up to make soft and glazed crocodile easier to skive. Its just a bit of brass i shaped down to match the grind stone feed wheel in shape and a concrete nail smoothed out and put through.Helps to stop friction. Please send some close up pics of your machine to analyze.Do you have the dressing stick for inside bell and do you know how to use it?

Hi Colt, I have to admit that I would be tempted to use an extension on the pull down handle but for small stamps I think would be fine. Foil embossing does not need as much pressure as when you want to just heat press it in, and different leathers will need more than others. I would not say it is a better substitute for a good heavy embossing machine but if I were starting out all over again I can see a lot of use in having a good size drill press. The drill press above cost about $350 a couple years back and the fact it could be used for burnishing, hole punching/drilling when you want a consistent line up, horizontal grinding for edges and so on I thought for a beginner it could be a better value for dollar as embossing is not used for long periods when starting out. I will work on coming up with some plans to do this over the next week or so. I know for someone of your skills this would not be much of a problem but I am trying to work out how to make it easy to do for the majority. good idea's welcome.

Hard to say Howard without seeing your desired design. Mostly you can save a lot of edge thickness by simply T shaping your credit card pockets behind the front pocket. Attaching fabric to your back bill pockets can help but is not generally for a first timer.

Best of all is wash out any in lid before reapplication and wipe clean outside of thread on bottle.

Just to confuse it further what about retan? Part chrome tan and part veg or even a mix of others. Both veg and chrome have their own excellent uses and so does a retan but wet molding and carving is best on some types of veg but that's just my opinion.

Study further byggyns answer and make an effort to understand it. He went to some trouble to answer this and it is true.If something is not clear enough ask what that is.Get a range of buckles first and whatever thickness leather you feel is right and put it through and make sure it sits down nicely flat when folded over.

Thanks for that Colt is the bandsaw blade about 1/2 inch wide or less?I have no idea if I can get a Milwaukee blade here but I will try.

A very nice effort Colt and I am jealous seeing some of your workshop tools as well. May i ask what sort of blade is in your band-saw? I doubt if I am showing anything you don't already know but this pic shows where I do most of my circular knife sanding sharpening and polish off on the 6" rag wheel with Tripoli.O and don't laser engrave they will see it and find you and want one made for them.

I am not an expert on wet molding but for what it is worth I would soak the leather in warm to hot water with a little detergent for 10 mins to 1/4 hr and then pull around in my hands to feel if the stretch/suppleness feels good. I generally leave overnight to dry and it is often still a bit mellow in the morning. I like to get projects out of the mold before fully dry as i can then slicker any defect marks etc out. Be careful as you can lose your shaping if you rub around when still to wet.The screw idea may work but at any rate I would guess you would need about 15 to 20 kilo pressure on that thickness. A big vice may do. Best to look at previous forums for ideas. Best of luck Brian

Forgot your a newbie Texasrocker and I just thought I should have said if you did find a suitable steel luggage end protector,1 the screw holes would probably need to be ground down as the holes would not line up with the existing screws I think and 2 you would need to cover the metal in glad wrap to stop the metal making the leather black stain/rusting the leather. Very easy to cast with the right equipment but may be a bit hard to pull into shape with tacks as you said but give it a go.