RockyAussie

There are a few ways to colour it possibly. When you say you cant dye it what Happens?What dye are you trying to use? Will water soak in to the top grain side at all? Does it have a greasy or extra slippery feel? Will it take up black dye and is that an option?Make sure the wrinkles go in the same direction as the length of the knife.

Another tip, the cotton bud plastic is something I've used in my watch bands for the pin to go into. They are easy to cut with a sharp knife. For edge coating I use a bit of 3/8" green sponge foam cut to shape at the tip and a stainless egg cup. A belt length with practice will take about 20 seconds with practice.

Sacrilege!!!! how many bikes cost less than a Grand(that are worth having)? You can use the bell knife skiver to split with as well by doing several passes and a lot of fancy shaping as well if look into it. Other than a good sewing machine (cylinder) this would be my next most important purchase. Its not like a lot of tools where you are not likely to get your money back either.

Like Tinker Tailor said. I would not even try this with just moulded Veg as a beginner and I doubt you would get something along that line of snap on attachment to work for any length of time by even the best people here. I would like to be proved wrong.I have heat and vacuum moulded plastic to achieve something similar and to explain the method in the end would take too long unless you have already a lot of this type of equipment. Best wishes Brian

As you described they are pretty much just that. I have had in the past a few types and if all you really want to do is skive mellow veg they are not to bad, but if you ever want to split/skive any soft or thinish stuff your in trouble and taking out the blade to sharpen it sure pysoff pretty quick. Wasting your money on a lot off this stuff I believe and I wish I had gotten at least a Fortuna skiver right from the start and saved a lot of money and agro. Make sure that it has an aspirator (suction device for extracting the waste). 2nd hand generally about 1k or less but new not to bad if you shop around. If that's all to much you wont go too wrong following something along my Multisander adaptation.I hope to do up a new updated version of same this Christmas, and I will post some plans. Tom posted an interesting one last week but the time to do is something to consider if you are paying yourself anything worthwhile.

Honest I wasn............well...... read your subject heading!!!!!!What about a nice level vacume table to hold the leather all down flat and an electric wood planer suspended on an adjustable drop down ...........No i reckon your idea should work OK

Nuther idea... Get that blade and put in some elongated holes about 3/8" to 1/2" long like in an electric knife and set one end up to attach to an electric jigsaw. I think that could be easier and prolong the need for sharpening a lot but would still have to be taken out for sharpening occasionally. Should we patent this? Ha bugger everyone knows now

Well If you got that amount of time on yr hands..... why not get a bandsaw and turn it on its side, nock the teeth off and sharpen it, pully up the hand crank on the wringer. Remember to leave room for a strap folder to feed through the wringer as well. Ha whala. Honest I would do it sept I already got 2 bandknife splitters.

Hi AngieSA, I believe I have one of these in storage. The punch section you see is interchangeable with a lot of other different punches. It operates a bit like a sewing machine and you offer the leather up and just sew along punching holes. One I have does brogue holes (1large and 2small holes). You need to get a cardboard tape made about 1mm thick and 12 or 13mm wide I think and feed it under the gaps in the base. This is for the punches to punch into but not right through and it feeds along with the job.The brass coloured thing adjusts the length of gap from memory. If you need some pics or whatever let me know.

Hi Darren, What machines does this fit onto and how many$? I know that I have found the roller style much better behaved and less need for maintenance than the solid type of feet.

When you put your insole down to the mid sole lift the toe up so it wants to stay up before glueing down the sole. The lack of flex in the sole is I think likely to be an issue that transfers to the straps digging in to much.That 2nd sole should be soft and flexi if even used at all. Look at a well worn sandal and imitate that shape a bit is ideal.

Hi Alex, I am curious if you sorted this problem out. I had not seen this post before. I have several of these mostly in storage but if you need I could have a look a try and let you know how. If it is still not working right please tell me what is happening when you slowly wind it over and if you can send me a picture of the front with needle to hook relationship.Note: a big thing that makes them stitch badly is when the wear foot that the needle goes through is badly worn and angled.This will give a lot of misses in the stitching.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. (unless you wrote those thousand words I'd reckon).

For the sharpening if you have a belt sander or even a disc sander you can do something like in this link following, only difference I do is follow with a hit on the rag wheel and Tripoli polish. Round hole ones only of course.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLHKVj6na6g

Looks in pretty good nick for something of that age. I had one similar once, maybe still do somewhere.The 2 lock nuts have an extended barrel on and are probably done up. As these wear down they can get a little grabby and backing it out may help a bit but check there is no slippery looking bits on the clutch and fine sandpaper off if there is.

How about a couple of different size dowels to make a hefty sam brown stud sort of thing. Just a thought and doesn't need a router just a drill and a sander I'd say.

Sorry Dan that sure is a mystery. The only thing I can think if it is for any use with leather is pressing and rolling up a join seam and the piece at front is to push harder with the other thumb.

Looks very nice. Somethin wrong here I'm starting to think I want one.

Hi YinTx , having read through the link from Bill, I thought best to mention the fraying edges that let most of this construction down normally. Years ago I made up fabric to not fray by spraying some watered down PVA wood glue onto the back of taffeta fabric. This worked Ok, but after a lot of searching we found in Italy a fabric manufacturer that makes up for many leading brand names called Tabru. If you decide to at some stage go up the fabric route here is the link. Address to Nino Aiello and ask for some polyster Tes Jacq for use in wallets. They are normally good for samples. Check if they have an agent there first.http://www.tabru.eu/en/company.html

YinTx Now I've seen your pocket pics I think your giving yourself a fair bit of grief going right to particularly the outer edge. I for years have done fabric lining in the pockets but keep in mind if using leather pocket lining that is stitched to the top as well, there is no need for the pockets to all go to the outer edge. They hold cards not coin. If the back longest pocket goes to the edge all the rest will be contained anyway. Hope that helps the stitching probs in future.