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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. Constabulary, F, I got one that is 50 inches long, use it in woodworking especially on sheets of plywood. glenn
  2. Cowboy and Cobra are good machines. Thor, not so sure. I had a service man up here in Michigan work on a new Thor and the main shaft holes were drilled crooked meaning it should never have got out of the plant that way. That said, you do what you have to do but you will regret not sewing on a machine before you buy it. Just my opinion. glenn
  3. Starwind0, I would take samples of what you want to sew and go see Alexander at Solar Leather in Dallas. Yah, it takes a lot of time and some expense to travel to see him but you will get a chance to see what they have and more importantly, sew on them.. After all, this is not going to be a $20.00 purchase. That will probably answer a lot of your questions. If you are ready to buy, take money with you and bring it back with you to save the shipping. I drove 800 miles one way to pick up a long arm Adler last summer. It was a 2 day drip and cost me $400.00 in gas, food and lodging. However, I got a long arm Adler 767FA273 double needle stretched to 30"with all the toys for $750.00. That machine was over $12,000.00 new. Yes, it has to be rebuilt but I have it in my shop with the table , and all and the Efka motor is single phase! For the money you are going to spend, go see and sew on it. You don't buy a car without test driving it! glenn
  4. Yes, the bronze and black color were made in the 1980's and early 1990's. I had one like this. great machine. The earliest Pfaff's were all black with gold lettering, then bronze and black, then honey and brown. New ones are Ergonomic white and light grey accents. glenn ,
  5. Machine not threaded correctly. On the tension discs, do not go around the little pin. That pin is for locating the tension discs in the correct spot. glenn
  6. The Juki 2810 is a copy of the Durkopp/Adler 867. glenn
  7. I think you might be able to construct something like it for $200.00. I would ask some one to send you specs of one they have on their machine. This is an obsolete machine but a lot of guys still use them. One the finest machines Singer ever built. I had one. glenn
  8. cdthayer, Contact Allen at Weaver. They have genuine Adler parts as well as the clone parts for the 205 Clone. He can help. glenn
  9. Take bobbin case out of machine. What you see is shuttle carrier which is what the bobbin case rests in. Grab the shuttle carrier with your fingers and see how much you can turn it or wiggle it without machine running. Anything over 1/8" means there is wear in the shuffler carrier gears, racks and pinions. It is on a Sutton stand that had a jack shaft as a speed reducer and a regular motor. If you get it, remove all that stuff and put a speed reducer and servo in. Much easier to control the speed. Bob Kovar has needles for the machine. This machine will use Singer bib bobbin hooks and bobbins. Keep us posted. glenn
  10. Generic feet are available for the 67, 167, 69, 169, 267 machines. All used they same feet. What kind of feet are you looking for? Kwok Hing in China makes several types of feet for this series of machine. glenn
  11. Try Alberoni's in southern California. There was a dealer in Oregon. glenn
  12. You cannot pull thread out from the hook area until the take up lever is at it's highest point. That is when it free from the hook. That is also when you want to lift the foot and pull your work out. glenn
  13. New clamp from Adler is $127.00 and change. glenn
  14. M means safety clutch, L is for leather, C is class see so medium heavyweight components, P means 4 motion drop feed, N 6mm max. stitch length glenn
  15. Yes. You might consider Hoffman Brothers in Chicago since they are closer to you. Not on the list of dealers here that sell machines on this board. They now are the people that make and service the Pro 2000 which is based on a Juki 441 head. I would at least call them. glenn
  16. It will be nice when cleaned up. You got your work cut out. Take lots of pics when disassembling it. glenn
  17. Sounds like the feed eccentric is 180 degrees out. No timing marks underneath a 1245. Can you upload a quick video of the machine being turned by hand so we can see the feet and feed dog in action? glenn
  18. Greg, I agree with you. The outside foot is not parallel with the throat plate/feed dog. To correct it, the shaft for the outside foot has to be loosen and rotated. Remove the inside foot before doing this. It has been awhile since I have worked on a 267. Send us a few pics of the back of the head and the left side of the machine with the cover plate removed. We then can tell you what to loosen to rotate the outside foot shaft. glenn
  19. Depending on the size thread you are using, the notch that holds the bobbin case finger can be deepen. I have done that on a number of machines and my own machines over the years. The #92 is not considered a heavy thread. The #138 is considered a heavy thread. I want the needle thread to pass thru that notch unabated. Your machine has a horizontal hook so there is no bobbin case lever on it. Deepening the notch a little with some Mitchell cord is one alternative or moving the hook ever so slightly so that the gap of the bobbin case finger in the notch is ever so slightly bigger might work as well. The key here is the thread should not hang up in that notch what so ever. Hope that explains a possible solution. glenn
  20. That number sounds like a singer screw number. glenn
  21. Yep That is an Adler 105-64. It was the best cylinder arm that Adler had for some time. Replaced by the 205-64. The 205-64 is what Adler eventually built the 205-74off off which was later rebadged 205-374 and then 370. It will sew leather up to 12mm. Nice machine.
  22. That would leave a ragged edge for the thread to catch on. pics will definitely help. glenn
  23. You need a narrow center foot and a Left toe outer foot. glenn
  24. I am some what. Call Shoe System Plus in New York and they can walk you thru the retiming. glenn
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