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shoepatcher

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Everything posted by shoepatcher

  1. Take bobbin case out of machine. What you see is shuttle carrier which is what the bobbin case rests in. Grab the shuttle carrier with your fingers and see how much you can turn it or wiggle it without machine running. Anything over 1/8" means there is wear in the shuffler carrier gears, racks and pinions. It is on a Sutton stand that had a jack shaft as a speed reducer and a regular motor. If you get it, remove all that stuff and put a speed reducer and servo in. Much easier to control the speed. Bob Kovar has needles for the machine. This machine will use Singer bib bobbin hooks and bobbins. Keep us posted. glenn
  2. Generic feet are available for the 67, 167, 69, 169, 267 machines. All used they same feet. What kind of feet are you looking for? Kwok Hing in China makes several types of feet for this series of machine. glenn
  3. Try Alberoni's in southern California. There was a dealer in Oregon. glenn
  4. You cannot pull thread out from the hook area until the take up lever is at it's highest point. That is when it free from the hook. That is also when you want to lift the foot and pull your work out. glenn
  5. New clamp from Adler is $127.00 and change. glenn
  6. M means safety clutch, L is for leather, C is class see so medium heavyweight components, P means 4 motion drop feed, N 6mm max. stitch length glenn
  7. Yes. You might consider Hoffman Brothers in Chicago since they are closer to you. Not on the list of dealers here that sell machines on this board. They now are the people that make and service the Pro 2000 which is based on a Juki 441 head. I would at least call them. glenn
  8. It will be nice when cleaned up. You got your work cut out. Take lots of pics when disassembling it. glenn
  9. Sounds like the feed eccentric is 180 degrees out. No timing marks underneath a 1245. Can you upload a quick video of the machine being turned by hand so we can see the feet and feed dog in action? glenn
  10. Greg, I agree with you. The outside foot is not parallel with the throat plate/feed dog. To correct it, the shaft for the outside foot has to be loosen and rotated. Remove the inside foot before doing this. It has been awhile since I have worked on a 267. Send us a few pics of the back of the head and the left side of the machine with the cover plate removed. We then can tell you what to loosen to rotate the outside foot shaft. glenn
  11. Depending on the size thread you are using, the notch that holds the bobbin case finger can be deepen. I have done that on a number of machines and my own machines over the years. The #92 is not considered a heavy thread. The #138 is considered a heavy thread. I want the needle thread to pass thru that notch unabated. Your machine has a horizontal hook so there is no bobbin case lever on it. Deepening the notch a little with some Mitchell cord is one alternative or moving the hook ever so slightly so that the gap of the bobbin case finger in the notch is ever so slightly bigger might work as well. The key here is the thread should not hang up in that notch what so ever. Hope that explains a possible solution. glenn
  12. That number sounds like a singer screw number. glenn
  13. Yep That is an Adler 105-64. It was the best cylinder arm that Adler had for some time. Replaced by the 205-64. The 205-64 is what Adler eventually built the 205-74off off which was later rebadged 205-374 and then 370. It will sew leather up to 12mm. Nice machine.
  14. That would leave a ragged edge for the thread to catch on. pics will definitely help. glenn
  15. What model of machine is it? pics? glenn
  16. You need a narrow center foot and a Left toe outer foot. glenn
  17. I am some what. Call Shoe System Plus in New York and they can walk you thru the retiming. glenn
  18. The correct needle system for that machine is System 88, the same needle used in the #3 or #30 big bobbin Claes shoepatcher. They are available and ZI have some of the smaller sizes. glenn
  19. generic feet work fine. I have used them for years. Which feet are you looking for? glenn
  20. great Auction. I went last year and bought my Adler 669 head for 10% off cash and carry. They had more machinery last year for sale than in any previous year. Could not get it all under the tent! You need a machine go. You can test sew any of the new machines they have. Well worth the trip. glenn
  21. The selling point on this 1341 was that it has a 9mm maximum stitch length where as the 341 was 6mm. glenn
  22. I think all 3 of these machines are made in the same factory in China. You might give W.S. Bessett a call and ask for Mickey. They are in Maine. I just purchased a used 1341 Juki from him. This is a newer and better version of the 341. glenn
  23. I talked to Allen at Weaver this morning. The first Cub is off the line and being tested. Still some work to do and they will not release it until they are satisfied. Should be a good machine. Like I stated earlier, will have a crank on it vs. pulling a lever down. glenn
  24. yes, machine going to be made in the US. Contact Weaver Leather to see where they are on the machine. glenn
  25. The 135x16 is 1/3 the height of the eye longer from top of eye to top of shank and the point from the bottom of the eye to the tip is ever so slightly longer. I set up my two Adler's with 135x17 needles because they come in more sizes, titanium coated I can get in size #180 vs. #160 for 134-35. To use 135x17 needles, I have to adjust the needle bar ever so slightly. This way, I only need to carry one system of needle for most all my machines, i.e. Juki. singer, Adler.
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