kgg

I would download manual for the Highlead GC0618. I have included the three for the Juki DU-1181n and see which manual seems to be the one for your machine. No such thing as a stupid question. Maybe it's just me but I don't really see the need of installing a needle positioner on any of my machines for my needs. My new machine that will arrive shortly is coming with a brushless servo motor and needle positioner. The needle positioner will not be installed and will remain in the box. A speed reducer will then be installed as I would rather have better stitch by stitch control. Beside that for my stuff I don't like the idea of the machine telling me where the needle is supposed to be when I release the go pedal, that would just frustrate me to no end. At present I use brush servo motors on all my machines and only time will tell if I keep the brushless servo installed on the new machine. The more electronics the greater the potential for more problems. The difference between a clutch motor and either a brush or brushless servo motor is like night and day. The servo motors only run when give hit the go pedal where as the clutch motors roar to life the moment you turn the power switch on. The clutch motors are inherently noisy while the servo motors are almost silent. kgg Juki_1181n_instruction_7K.pdf DU-1181 eng manual.pdf Juki 1181N parts.pdf

Here is a good reference chart for needle size to thread size. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Note sometimes you have to move up a needle size in thick / tough / sticky material. The M20 thread size is equal to V138 (Tex 135). I would recommend using at least a #22 needle and if you find you are having stitch problems particularly in the multi layers you may have to move up a size or two. If the hole that needle makes isn't large enough the loop that the hook needs to catch will not be properly formed material so you get skipped stitches or stitches that are not constant. Depending on the faux leather you may have to use a leather needle to cut through rather then a fabric needle that punches through and separates the fibers of the material. I am going to assume you are using the 135 x 17 (DP17) needle system for fabric so a leather needle would be 135 x 16 (DP16). I would ask your neighbor if they know what brand the machine is or if they have still have the manual I would have like to see more coils but 9 coils is a good middle of the road servo motor. As for installing this style of servo motor, brushless, getting the synchronizer to work with a speed reduced is probably not going to work. In a lot of cases you can get either i) really slow sewing speeds with stitch by stitch ability and extra torque for punching power by using a speed reducer OR ii) slower sewing speed with less torque and needle synchronizing for the needle up or down positioning. I am going to assume your machine has very similar sewing abilities as my Juki DU 1181n which is a light weight walking foot and the only reason I would consider adding a speed reducer is to get better low speed control. My rough rule of thumb is adding a speed reducer for more slow speed, stitch by stitch, control is a good idea but, but to add a speed reducer just to get more punching power, no. I figure I'm using the wrong class of machine for the work and something is going to twist or break under full load and torque. As far as the needle positioning it is a I think a personal preference based on the what works best for them, some people love it and others not so much. The cost to me seems really steep. 350 EUR would be ~ $500 CAD or $380 USD. kgg

Another alternative would be a foot lift rather then a knee lift. This would ensure you are not pressing down on the " go faster " pedal while at the same time lifting the presser foot up with your knee. Use a heavy gauge wire / rod to connect to the hole in the end of the lifting mechanism on the rear of the machine and extending below the the table / pan. At that end of the wire/rod make a loop in the wire / rod and connect a chain or wire. The other of the chain / wire then would be connected to a pedal alongside the existing pedal. kgg

Not really, the sewing speed is going to depend the motor controller (analog vs electronic), whether it is coupled with a speed reducer and of course the operator. If you purchase a electronic controlled motor it is mainly going to depend on how many coils the motor was constructed with where the more coils gives better speed control and torque. A lot of the cheaper electronic controlled servo's have 6 coils while the better ones have 12 coils which is usually reflected in the cost also some of the cheaper ones have a minimum start speed so they maybe a be jerky. If you want / need that stitch by stitch ability you really need to invest in a speed reducer like @chrisash suggested. For the machine in the photo's a 550 watt will work just fine but if the cost difference between a 550 and 750 watt is minimal and like @chrisash suggested get the 750 watt. From the looks of the machine in the photo it doesn't look like a Highlead GC0618 even through it has a tag that says GC0618. The whole from end is closer to that of a Juki DU 1181N rather then the Highlead GC0618. Base on the tension assembly I would consider the one in the photo to be a lighter duty machine with lesser sewing needle size availability, thickness capabilities thread size selection and probably a walking foot rather then a compound feed where the needle just moves up and down with no front to rear movement. What are you planning on sewing and with what size of needle and thread? kgg

Shock'n pretty. kgg

Both machines share basically the same sewing ability and seem to be able to accommodate the same accessories but: i) The main difference of the new Artisan, if I'm not mistaken, it has a 12" arm while the Cobra has a 16.5" which is the size the Juki TSC-441 that the clones have copied. Certain parts for odd size arms may down the road become a problem. ii) The next difference how torque is achieved. The Artisan gets it torque by increasing the size of the hand-wheel while the Cobra has speed reducer mounted under the table. iii) Foot peddle operation of the Artisan is done by mounting the motors power sending unit directly to the foot peddle which in my opinion is a location more prone to getting damaged. The Cobra uses a more standard arrangement. iv) Speed control and motor electronics as well as the motor are mounted to the top of the table top while the Cobra uses the standard configuration of under the table mounting. On thin / soft items either machine would have to be dumbed down or require the installation of a modified needle plate/feed dog as previously mentioned by @dikman. kgg

If I'm not mistaken your machine has a safety clutch, has it tripped and have you reset it? kgg

My take is i) The PFAFF is a brand name while the Typical is a clone. ii) the PFAFF info I have seen The "H" indicates the lift of the pressor foot where H1 and H2 are 7 mm and use the 134 needle system, H3 are 11 mm and use the 134-35needle system while the H4 has a 14 mm lift and use the 190 needle system. The "L" indicates it is rated for leather versus "S" is for fabric. iii) Parts and accessories for the PFAFF's in general are expensive and for some models not readily available. iv) The PFAFF thread capacity is generally limited to V92 for the older machines and the new model limited is limited to V69 I wouldn't personally purchase either as both are going to severely limited not only the thread size but the thickness that can be sew. What are you planning on sewing maybe a better way to approach choosing a machine?? What country are you located in. kgg

Why??? Just use the Juki manuals. If I am not mistaken your machine is a clone of the Juki LS-1340 series of machines. Here is a couple of real manuals for you to look at. The question is why is your machine having a timing problem? What thread to needle combination are you using in how thick of material? kgg Juki LS-1340&42 Servcie Manual.pdf ls1340.pdf

The Chinese companies can make decent quality items but that will depend on the specification they are asked to build the item to. I have gotten presser feet as well as other items that where at both ends of the spectrum. Some items end up in the garbage bin. Keep in mind PFAFF is now owned by a Chinese company, SVP. Is their quality the same as before 2006???? kgg

Sorry to hear of your experience. kgg

That is a very nicely done paint job and love the color. Only you can say it is too much work but here are a three video's which may help. i) Feed dog cam how you set the height and replace the yolk over the cam --- fairly simple Singer 111W155 feed dog lifting cam and fork ----- ii) This is for a Consew 226r which for your Singer should be very similar if not the same. Check out the 6:53 minute part of the video. Consew 226r Large Bobbin conversion Juki LU-563 ----- iii) For your stitch length problems this video explains how the stitch length works. It is for a 111W155 which is the same as the 111W153. Note if the main shaft has a lot of movement from front to back you should check and see if a set screw hasn't backed off or you have a bad shaft bushing. If the stitch length mechanism is worn out replacing it means the whole bottom end needs to come apart. I would consider that to be a ugly job. Youtube would allow me to embed the video. Singer 111W155 Stitch Length Selector ----https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IsbquYazHx0 kgg

Does it have a tight spot without the drive belt installed on the machine? Before I would attempt replacing things I would give the internals a really good oil bath and flush with some synthetic transmission oil combined with some light synthetic oil to penetrate deep in all the bushings surfaces and bearings. Looks like a nice color for the paint job. kgg

I think these are probably a specialty clip that is produced solely by or for Sleepypod as the clip has sleepypod molded into the face of the clip. You could try and order one from Sleepypod in the size you would like. kgg

I am going to assume when you say "flywheel" you mean the hand-wheel that the drive belt from the motor is on. The hand-wheel: i) the hand-wheel slides over the main shaft which has a groove ground into it. ii) hand wheel has two set screws. One that seats down into the groove of the main shaft and the other set screws seats onto the the round part of the shaft. If the hand-wheel slips chances are the set screws weren't tighten down properly or the groove location is damaged. If the set screws weren't tighten properly with one in the groove then the hand-wheel will slip / spin. You probably can just regrind the hole so there are no burrs to tear up the thread. It maybe just the angle of your photo but it appears you have the needle in backwards. The long groove going up the shaft of the needle has to be on the left and the scooped out part of the needle (scarf) on the right so when the thread is threaded from left to right the thread slips down the groove to the eye of the needle. kgg

Maybe try Ailexpress for something like this: for about $0.53 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000204100606.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.93.326chJ3BhJ3Bx3&algo_pvid=d6a455b0-fe99-4dfe-b30a-dca3ace3c4f9&algo_exp_id=d6a455b0-fe99-4dfe-b30a-dca3ace3c4f9-46&pdp_npi=3%40dis!USD!2.18!0.39!!!!!%40212240a316873568966258263d0787!10000000776821401!sea!CA!4496536814&curPageLogUid=42ffrQ11iGMV kgg

Thank you. Good point I will keep an eye on that. kgg

Try searching for swivel hooks, swivel snaps and or swivel snap hooks. kgg

Thank you, I figure the leather sleeve will out last the recliner. kgg

This type of guide is used with typically two needle machines where the thread from one thread spool goes through the holes on the left of the bracket and then to the bottom thread guide before the tensioner and the other thread from the second spool goes to the one on the right which would have second thread guide place in the where the screw in the photo is on the right side of the bracket. It can offer extra tension and also keeps the two top threads separate so they don't get tangled up when sewing. A example can be see on this video: ( www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxLo85ClZ2U ) kgg

I am assuming the top head casing is a separate casing then the cylinder arming casing and maybe able to be moved / twisted slight to get rid of the 1mm difference between the front and rear as you noted in the photo. Otherwise it is just a slight error when the machine was cased. kgg

Those mag base are great aren't they. I figure you got a few choices: i) Strip the machine down to bare bones and reline the casing and replace the main shaft. However that may not solve the problem as other bushings / guides maybe also be worn slightly off. ii) Shave a bit off the part that hits / comes close to striking the other. However that will not fix the problem. iii) Run the machine machine until it gives you problems or requires other parts. Use a synthetic oil rather then sewing machine oil for lubrication. How long it will last who knows. I think that will depend on how fast you run the machine and how often you are going to use it. I wouldn't be in rush to replace the machine until a problem that effects the stitch appears but I would keep an eye open for a new or newer machine. kgg

Looks good. kgg

Is the main shaft slightly buckled??? I would check with the tip of a pencil on the shaft and see if it marks only in one spot as the shaft is being rotated. If it puts a mark all the way around the shaft is good, if it only marks the shaft in one area the shaft is bent. kgg

Thank you. It's something simple and is going to be used a lot. kgg