nylonRigging

The aftermarket part is working satisfactory (after working it over) and nothing to really bitch about . But ya, just think it the right thing to do is keep it all original #'s parts because of the age and condition . I am into it now for a lot of my time on the head and also put a couple hundred+$ into stripping Treadle and powdercoat . It is handy machine but No Doubt it not practical with time and energy put into it to get it respectable to sit in my sew room . really it will sit with a cover over it more than it will ever be used sewing . .

wow .. 28 of them to do. that's a lot of listening to that Dremel screaming in your ear .. LOL . . I called one of buddies who lives about an hour from me and he is pretty good and current with welding small items, and I pretty good with a Dremel. so I should be GTG and get it done pretty easy . .

I really want to get it done good . The old factory parts had a good hard surface tempering to last, so that was my concern about Brazing . sounds like Brazing might work OK also if it hard enough surface and bond to last . Welding Rod and Wire can be had in different hardness, but laying down a tiny clean precision bead is where i need to find a real craftsman . the area to build-on is small and no place to be practicing skills. -

hey as Metal and welding not my forte, 'Question' ? , Have you, or anyone you know ? . Welded a Bead to the surface on the ( both top and bottom side ) , of ( worn/flattened ) , radius tip of the Bell crank Lever ? . To then just resurface back to Spec. roundness again . I bought an aftermarket Bell feed Lever replacement part . I got it all working and getting a solid 6-SPI threw 5-stack of 1000 den. nylon . And that not bad for a 105 year old 29-4 . The 'generic' aftermarket Bell Lever that is sold , ( did need some resurfacing on the outside of Round Loop ) at bottom of the forks , as the loops wall thickness was bigger than old factory part, to get it to 'rock back and forth' and align correct . Also was needed for the 2 factory mount screws, to pass-by outside wall of the loop to remount it . I got the aftermarket part functioning great in the machine , BUT ... I Really want to keep and replace back, the original 'factory #'s part ' Bell Lever back into the old 29 again if possible . So if I can get an opinion as to weld bead to the old metal part, that would be great . .....thanks - -

Old, Vs Very old ...LOL . . my old 1914 29-4 G code, has '1887' Patent dated stamped on the cast iron stand . Newer machines are where it's at for sewing everyday . But The cool factor of having and keeping these old patch machines together, alive and stitching is priceless . .

- Thank You . these two Pic's. saved me and ( you cant see me do it ) , but after a couple hours of mumbling cursing and greasy fingers , I am tipping a single malt in a chilled Waterford with also giving you a salute . Tonight I had the bottom cover off gear drive bars and machine slipped off my blocks when tipped back . Drive bar fell out as the Hand wheel turned and gear timing went out in relation to needle stroke . To say the least, it was a Large PIA . But these Pic's I found helped bigtime . .

Cool you got the bigboy 16" arm . you will like it . I got a 16" longarm flatbed single needle and all that extra room is nice sometimes . Just a HeadsUp .. You got to carry it up any stairs when you get home ?? ...LOL . . That Pro2000 16" head , is going to a lot heavier than you think when you put your back into it to pick it up and carry to your truck . .

All the 441 import cylinder arms sold in US are pretty competitive priced . I would go with what is closer for pick-up or delivery . Your down in California.on your profile, so why not go with Artisan Toro down in Cal. ? . and there ( 3200 mdl.) with ( ped 500 ) . Same specs. as the cowboy and Cobra . But It has 12"inch Work arm and on-board bobbin wind . looks like it's 2420-$ on the Artisan website . Artisan sews good and they answer there phone, stand behind what they sell similar like cowboy and cobra sales . .edit add .. you live close to Sacramento/San fransico area, pretty big population so must be a lot of used sew machines . Can you find Used 441 clone down there ? if worried about funds . .

( thoughts asked ) .. My thought guess ? , polyamide 'might be' very similar feel to an para-Aramid thread/cord ( kevlar , nomex..etc.) . Aramid thread are pretty tough abrasion, UV resistant, but the Aramid threads ( if polyamide similar ? ) , Aramid ( i have couple rolls ) feel pretty rough abrasive texture . Only way you will know for sure you can use it, is get 1 roll and see how it runs in your machines . . I just thinking .. ( Thread Tension ) and how nice smooth bonded thread flows and tensions so much better than stiffer and rough threads .

ya, the aftermarket 441 foot are sold cheap on-line . Dremel , file and grinder all you need . just make sure when shaping feet for any machine that you have a cold water cooling bowl there to quench and keep the Temp. down as you go . The metal on the aftermarket feet sold is actually pretty hard . R-side cut-off, shortened and narrowed some . . 'middle' , Trimmed short, with feet narrowed . . and there is a full size Foot to show stock length and width . .

LOL... because rest of the world not sewing leather, it the most widely used foot for 'heavy' synthetic and natural fiber/weave materials . It also great Foot to buy several of, to grind , cut and shape for specific jobs . .

- You got to remember that a majority of people that are learning to sew, or that do sew with machines, don't have acquired enough machine mechanics knowledge, to feel confident enough to order a machine on-line, sight unseen from China and then drive over to a trucking delivery hub pick it up, pull a machine out of a crate and put time in for set-up and timing . Also, The majority of people want to just slide a sew machine into a station, plug it into the wall, and go to work . You are charged a Fee-$ for the privilege to just ' Plug & Play ' . You Can't fault the ' Middle Man Dealer ' . They are offering running a ' legitimate service ' . ' post sales Customer Service ' . Retail Mark-up-$$ , it is a business service and You pay several hundred dollars more for it . .

another big thanks... It is now in parts file on the Desktop . .

Good for you... If owner has a Tech. put a timing/tune to it and gives it all a check-over and a thumbs-up ( and it's stitching great ) . then ( 600-$ ) fair asking price . call the Tech. he used and ask him If .." the machine Head and Table looks clean and GTG ". and with updated 750w servo drive . the 112, should run for years working for you, with little upkeep on your end . .

Servo Motor 'usually' has a Fuse-Cap on backside, it marked 'fuse' and you just un-screw and look/replace if needed . Main Fuse ( at machine ON / OFF Switch ) , also pull side-cover screw off your main switch cover and remove, and look inside ON/OFF switch , and look to see if all wires are in there connection screws . Machine Not firing up . it most likely something real simple and easy right up front . also ( UNPLUG ) before digging around in your ON/Off switch . .

Among other foams I regularly use . I have used this for years sewing on certain items where I need thin foam between panels . ( It works real nice ) . Floor underlay foam is a thin closed-cell polyurethane foam, ( 1/8" ) thick that is, good price, closed cell, 'tough rugged' . can find it easy over at hardware like, home depot ...etc https://www.homedepot.com/p/TrafficMASTER-Standard-100-sq-ft-Rolls-25-ft-x-4-ft-x-080-in-Polyethylene-Foam-2-in-1-Underlayment-100779555/203956730?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-203956730-_-N .

Ya most definitely don't want to muscle and pry to hard till you get a word from someone mechanical current on that model who has done it before . It Eats a lot of downtime hours with your time on this kind of problem caused by a tiny little part like a broken screw . Things been going real smooth for me last couple years with machine mechanics, I hate to say anything positive in Fear I will bad JuJu Jinx myself . I been threw that broken screw on needle rod before on other machines , and I remember a couple years back I had the tension push pin lever on machine come loose in mid stride, and jam up, and get bent around, all from it's mount screw working loose . I had to remove and reassemble half the working mechanical guts out behind face-plate to even get my fingers to it, was a PIA for sure . .

Good you got it figured out and sewing good now . Just changing from the wrong needle an easy fix . There can sometime 'subtle' difference between Needle brands for sure . And manufactures do have different designs and thoughts behind there needles . I usually buy/run Groz-Beckert for 135x5 and 135x17 needles . But . ( for example ) .. I got one straight-zigzag combo machine that the only way to get the 10mm factory width when zizzag, is to use Organ Brand needles on the timing , Organ Brand, it has a longer scarf cut than Groz-beckert needles . I prefer Groz-Beckert with there shoulder tapper shaft, over the Organ Brand straight tapper shaft . But the Organ brand do good and no complaints . Groz-Beckert I think also have smooth less friction with there shoulder step-down shaft taper, over Organ straight shaft . but you pay more for the GB's also . In Pic. below, both the Needles are 135x17 ( 21 ) . With Groz-Beckert on top , and Organ Brand on bottom . Both Sold as same size needles, but notice there is a subtle design difference on Scarf and also Hole . - -

People sewing sitting behind a machine for the most part, have there face and eyes tuned right in there within a couple feet of there materials and the needle . So No harm in wearing safety glasses behind sew machinery . There is little chance needle deflection strike and piece of broken needle going ballistic when sewing threw, Slow, Thin , Soft , Level , is a micro small chance deflection and slamming throat plate or dogs . ( but It Is still there ) .. But Deflection on the needle punching is the wild card and you can't predict , and when Needles snap they do unpredictable . I can Not Count the # of times I have had deflections and needle strikes over the years . Have replaced a few throat plates with new that have been trashed multiple strikes . I have been hit in face and arm couple times in my life behind sew machine and needle break . Once on Bartacker and that made me NEVER go without eye's or face shield on that machine, Also been hit zigzagging threw some thick harder materials webbing and cordura before on the normal industrial. ..Etc. .

A ton of the old Singer 111 and 112 W's and G's ,always making there way threw the want to sell adds . You can't go wrong and they will do what you are wanting to do . they will easy run #69 thread , has the thread tension , presser-foot tension and the needle depth you need to get started , with basic wear parts cheep and all over for sale . .

Would like to see also . I never seen a Hot hole punch that would cauterize . I am sure though someone makes one for large industrial automated mass volume production. When I do thicker nylons,poly's and webbing stacked on top. After I punch-cut hole, I will just cauterize the cut inside edge with small hot knife rod . ( for example ) before I pound in a long neck spur grommet . I have a small 40 watt 'solder' wand that I will just roll inside hole to 'lightly melt' cauterize the cut weave inside edge . .

I can't believe Tandy Leather is even advertising and suggesting the 'plastic' Janome 3000 . Not to say it wont do very light and thin . . but ' better route and example' . I see a old but good clean and set-up ( 111 needle feed ) that runs good and local here for 350-$ , https://youtu.be/_zHNuos-ngQ?t=2 .

Only machine models I have removed and dropped new rods in were guided In/Out top . ( Most Machines ) The Rod just just removes Vert. guide straight Up and out ? . On that cylinder bed, ( 227 consew ) I would think the dogs and bobbin assembly would be in the way to drop out the bottom ? Either way, ' by design' if that the way it has to go, then not that big a deal to disassemble a few things and put back to replace it . It might suck but if has to be done ( Not much Choice in the mater ) ,then you will also learn a little more about your machine . . edit add: ( free shipping ) .. https://www.ebay.com/i/162723734428?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162723734428&targetid=595076263608&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032898&poi=&campaignid=6470636535&mkgroupid=77538519077&rlsatarget=pla-595076263608&abcId=1140476&merchantid=110365109&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq-atsNyk5QIVFdVkCh21QgiQEAQYASABEgKLUPD_BwE -

( example ) . scroll down in thread . There a dude who MacGyver'ed a simple and pretty sweet lift job . in search ( old thread here ) . https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/59666-pneumatic-foot-lift/ -

- ( if were me ) I would just put a brushless servo drive on it . then totally separate from the new servo . fix the pneumatic piston with new solenoid switch, hose Regulator/dryer-vile and run some air . Option #1 - You could probably just remove the air pull-push piston on Foot-Lift, and then just prefab yourself a pull chain or Rod strait down from linkage to a foot pedal for pull and Press.foot lift . Are all the parts there under the table. like Hose and Solenoid switch ? . Option #2 - The machine already looks laid out for it, So it an easy road just to roll with it and just get it working . Those little actuator solenoid switches are only 20-$ and less . The pistons are actually really cheap cost also . hose and fittings you can just go over hardware store or on-line . Those pistons are just a simple Air IN/Out Push/Pull, and you could easy just take and put fresh plastic hose and get a little pancake air compressor with regulator and put in-line with that a dryer vile to get that thing working . Pneumatic looks intimidating but on old machine stuff it actually really simple . All it is 'air' and a when push on your knee or foot button, it just pulls down the press-foot linkage with the piston and then when you let-up on the witch it just releases pressure from piston . .