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nylonRigging

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Everything posted by nylonRigging

  1. Forum archives 2014 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56434-singer-29-4-stitch-length-and-foot-pressure-adjustments/ -
  2. Same/similar here as ( konapiaiola ) just said . I order in and use rolls of ' Skrim Back ' 1/4" and 1/2" high density pink . I have had a lot practice last few years with foam on a couple larger size items I sell . ( For Me ) .. I use a 'narrow foot' and knock down on the foot pressure to help lower foot friction and help move smoother . You still need to have hands-on and massage as you feed the panels threw, but it all goes pretty smooth . Also all the panels I am sewing have a lining-inner panel , So I do all my sewing Skim side up. just make all my stitch guard marks on the skrim side . the inner liner hides all my guild marks . .
  3. I vote ---> . If ( it runs ) and you have a space for it to be stationed , ( Get It ) . 111and 112 needle-feed machines Run sweet, price is right, parts are plentiful . And, You need more than one machine to make your life easier, and setting-up machines for a specific purpose/job is the way to go . .
  4. Your nylon is always going to be a little stiff and curly with memory of the wrap/tension, especially on the last 25% left on the Roll . In your 1st post your saying that it sewed perfect until now ?? . ( if so ? ) then something has suddenly changed different . You saying ? .." you only used this one thread #size this whole time . You Did not accidentally put wrong needle in by mistake ? You did not have Scarf pointing wrong direction to Hook ? . Your Needle is pushed-up all the way in needle bar ? ---> So, you saying suddenly now, It's dropping Stitch and shredding/tangled on ( top-Thread and needle ) and fast in first 5-6 stitched laid down . You need to ' start ' by close scrutiny of all related to Needle - Hook . .
  5. That Head will clean-up and look really nice . .
  6. thread Wrapping around needle sounds weird . But start tracing down the problem . work back from the needle , needle bent/needle turned . the correct size needle and Skarf on correct direction to Hook or off-angle. Had a needle strike lately ? . look/feel for a burr on needle/throat plate, burr on Hook . .
  7. Hey that post on the overlock serger rally something I interested investing into , I do a LOT of tape seam binding .

    I really looking for a ' alternative ' to ( inside seam bind ) of my articles . what can that Juki model you got do with the heavy den.cordura's ? .

    could it sew ( 2-layers of 1-k den. ) with ( 2-layers of 200 den. lining ) ?

    Does it do a nice clean trim look for Serge edge ? / is it double needle ?

    thanks ....ray

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. JJN

      JJN

      See if you can try your product on a running machine. I sew with 69 thread too. I think 46 is the heaviest you want to use on a serger like this. If you are ever in Grants Pass you are welcome to experiment on my machine.

      Yes, my son Johnny Noveske created Noveske Rifleworks. He actually started it in my 100 year old detached garage. It was always his business 100%. Tragically he was killed in an auto accident in 2013. The business is now run by his wife and his children are working there learning the business in his footsteps. I offer guidance whenever it is needed but they are doing a fantastic job on there own.

    3. JJN

      JJN

      A side note, there is a nice looking Pfaff 1245 near Seattle on craigslist for $650. I'd buy it but it is too far away.

    4. nylonRigging

      nylonRigging

      I will look that one up, once in a while you can get a good buy off the craiglist . I have bought 2 over the last 5 or 6 years of looking on it, but majority of people who sell sew machines on craiglist are in a alternate reality with price with there junk . but you can find good deals there, it just takes a lot of looking and time.
      That guy over across the 205 bridge is a good guy for you to have/keep his contact in case you need a odd-hard to find part or machine . he has a big horde of machines and is a industrial sewTech . It takes me good 1 hr.+ drive to get over and talk to him and it be a big drive for you . but he has mailed me parts if you know exactly what needed .
      his name is , Ryan Thomson ..  360-907-2218

      I know Ryan got several Serger heads sitting there , He has some other specialty serge Heads that I know nothing about . It just never dawned on me to use a serger for inside seam until read you post . He got pretty reasonable prices also on his stuff and if you get anything from him I know it will run without problems .
      .

  8. Pretty sure it means they stand behind there machines for anything other than normal wear and operator abuse . I don't think they are being vague on there statement ..." limited lifetime warranty ". on purpose . I seen Reliable machines around a long time so they must be doing something correctly . https://www.reference.com/vehicles/meant-limited-lifetime-warranty-4dbf2c74b549812e .
  9. ( insert internet sarcasm here ) ---> You just need to retrain your total way of thinking, relax and go with the flow . . It Not Copying . It Is called . ..." Doing my Artistic interpretation ", of your hard work in sourcing materials countless cut and re-cuts and figuring out proper order of completion of pattern with also the proper machines doing it . .
  10. Me neither . My neighbor lady next door has the old 80's ' Domestic ' Bernina 850 and it is obviously light weight domestic with built-in motor . The Industrial 850 is heavier than the domestic with cast body . looks to have got rid of the external 217 design for cam-box's . moved it internally with a Cam-stack for stitch selection like double-throw and Zig's .. etc. . the Pic. off the Link with top view of internals of the Chandler run of Bernina 850 .
  11. - Closest thing I could GooleFu up was a.. Chandler/Bernina 850. Looks Like this one in the ( over priced ) Ebay Link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bernina-850-Industrie-Sewing-Machine-w-motor-and-table/362706398525?hash=item5472fc6d3d:g:vGUAAOSw0AFcpjc3 -
  12. PM, sent on mechanic info . You down hwy. 84 E. out of Portland somewhere ? .
  13. what ( JJN ) says . you needs to be ( 1.5" ) thick . easy to laminate and add to it . Just 'Glue and Screw' cordless driver or use Air-gun staple to be fast . I used commercial gun last time I did this and was great . Don't run screws or staple/nail in the Cut-Out spot where you got to cut . you need to do it on a flat patio outside or flat inside concrete floor . just get good Plywood, Dont get crappy plugged finish plywood . You can use the particle board, but Ply. is better for not getting a Bow on the top over the long run years latter . Just Cut Ply. same size as top . glue and walk along with your body weigh and Screw it all down . Then go back in half hour and wipe all the excess glue that will press out the edges with wet sponge . leave sit for few days to cure . .
  14. As long as that table ( top is thick enough ? ) for an inlet. That is great working size top . Also you need check-look and mark on top-side where the underside metal table frame is located before commit cutting . also make sure your belt-cut-out and if running reduction wheel ? it has room on underside from hitting frame . IF it were me .. because of large size top .. I would keep it about where it is and make an set-in cut for where operator sits . So you get a little more L-side for materials to hang on the larger size patterns you stitching . ' Roughly ' . I marked with Line in Pic. for Cut Out where you Sit . Also where I marked ( D. L. ) . It EASY to hinge a Drop-Leaf that can swing-Up an lock for even more top when needed , and then just swing down and out way when not needed . -
  15. I just guilty of having pride in my quality work and in the machines I sit behind . I have nothing against Old machines . I still have/use regularly a, 1951 112w140 and a 1957 269W141 . I just have a thing for keeping all my machine I use clean and tuned, and with the shop floor swept . This 29 is old but it is just to dirty to keep in my sew room with other machines I own . And I do plan using the 29 and it will come in handy I am sure from time to time . I don't think I am ?? just slathering some lipstick on a pig, with paint on surface cover . I am going threw all that moves also, cleaning off years of dirt/old oil with a brush and solvent . It still stitching nice, and for it's age and I think I can get a year or two out of it still . in ( 1/4" thick ), it is still doing 7 SPI . So it not quit a sloppy parts donor machine yet . .
  16. Ya I pondered that for a while and the decals are there but are pretty worn and gone on some of them especially the floral on arm and the one on top of main body . About the only ( 2-color ) complete sets of 29 short and long-arm ( Factory decals with the floral ) that I can find that look worth putting on a 29 restoration . Is the Keeler Sales out of lakeland Florida. . but they wanting almost 70-$ usd for entire sets . .
  17. On the Head now and slowly tearing down and cleaning between sewing orders and other projects . Treadle Stand I Powder Coated . but i will only shoot the head with Enamel and clear-coat with some new decals . -
  18. ( Looks Like ) .. when load bearing, Is your ( 1" ) Webbing breaking and shredding the weave on your toothed friction lock-bar on the Buckle ? . If so it's the type- webbing your using and you need to change to different . Where Getting, and what Webbing you using ? .. Nylon is strongest for friction and strength . Polyester is pretty strong and best for UV sun damage . and definitely If you using the cheap Polypropylene webbing, It will do this in the Pic. every time . edit add: Also under heavy load Bering, like a main lift of heavy packs and container systems . your webbing wrapped over any friction surface for best long life . It good to run a ' chaffing strip ' under the webbing wrapped over the hardware that load is hanging from. . .
  19. As much as I love to own a 867, it is definitely not in the budget. I hate even watching Vid. of it's performance and all it's factory extra bells and whistles because it just makes me want one more . the 867 is in a class of it's own . I will have to Slumdog it, ....LOL . The Juki is in my-$$ range though, and I know it is a real workhorse with also affordable parts . .
  20. Everyone should have one ...LOL . 29-4 is cool little stitcher . I was going to slap it on a spare table with servo and just make more modern up-date . But the more I looked at the old Cast metal, the more it just made sense to preserve and keep it all together as a whole unit . Price was not to bad 200-$ for the powder-coat job at shop down the street. I will put a little time into the Head and clean it up, will just bolt Treadle stand on a caster wheel frame base when I done, and keep over in the corner with a couple other machines I got on caster wheels . .
  21. Slowly getting cleaned up and looking presentable . Was way to dirty to be put with rest of my machines . 29-4 /1914 . took apart and stripped the Treadle Stand and Top . had it all Powder-coated black and putting back together . - -
  22. having more lift would be great. I have been eyeballing that juki for a awhile also, and It has the punch and power . I still wanting some more Lift , and been using a heavy Consew RB1461A for a lot of years on the heavier side of things, it has good punch threw multi-layer of materials . I wish my Consew had more lift, but there does come a point when you just run out of needle with a 135x17 length and material height. That Juki LU-2810 has more lift, and I am getting one of them sooner or latter when the ( money materializes in my wallet ) the opportunity comes by me . The RB1461A does good but I think the Juki definitely has a couple more +plus's going for it . Here is a Pic. of , 2-layers of 1000 den. .. 1/2" scrim backed foam .. a piece of 1" webbing fold-over the top . more lift would be a great asset. -
  23. Turn sliders to go either way . I always use ( Coil zippers ) when I can, And buy zippers by the rolls. So I cut to random lengths to what I need . mostly use #5, but the larger items I always try to give strong/beefy if possible with #10 's . edit add: I guess some people buy the zippers that are already prefab. with stops and the sliders installed . The illusion of one-way is there, but I think a lot of teeth are multi-directon of zip, with the Slider determining the zip/unzip direction .
  24. The Direction of Zipper closing ...LOL couple weeks ago I did a few sets of uh60 door covers for a order. done this pattern several time and was no biggie . I get all finished, and am hanging them up and giving them all a quick inspection before box and shipping . Instantly my heart jumps to my throat and sinks to the floor ..." Oh this is Bad". because I just see that all the #10 coil zippers are closing the wrong direction on all the padded bag covers . It takes me about 30 seconds of beating myself up to realize and the light-bulb to shine on top my head . No Biggie . Just pick-out the closing ends holding stitches of the Zip . and just ' turn-around the Sliders ' to slide the zipper teeth, in the other direction . Screw-up's all fixed in an hour . .
  25. I have done this a couple times with finding a good head and setting it up on tables . The Head still needs a check-over timing and look for spots to clean and oil/lube . Things you need .. Table with proper inlet/Hinges . Motor drive/Belt . You need to work-out a Knee-lift and linkage, or at least a pedal pull chain for presser foot lift . Also you need a Oil Pan . side-table bobbin rewind . Some extra Bobbins . String it all up, Get it all rolling and workout al the bugs to get it stitching like a champ . Do you like to work on projects ? . or would you rather save a few hundred more-$ and buy something that you can just Plug-in and sew ? .
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