nylonRigging

I have done this a couple times with finding a good head and setting it up on tables . The Head still needs a check-over timing and look for spots to clean and oil/lube . Things you need .. Table with proper inlet/Hinges . Motor drive/Belt . You need to work-out a Knee-lift and linkage, or at least a pedal pull chain for presser foot lift . Also you need a Oil Pan . side-table bobbin rewind . Some extra Bobbins . String it all up, Get it all rolling and workout al the bugs to get it stitching like a champ . Do you like to work on projects ? . or would you rather save a few hundred more-$ and buy something that you can just Plug-in and sew ? .

Are you sure it the exact same pitch TPI bolt as it should be ? , being it is so loose now ? Or is the threads just so worn in screw and hole both, that maybe it so loose ? ( it does happen ) . If someone has over torqued and eaten-up/stripped some of the thread that were tapped in the hole . You can dissemble the part . then drill/ bore over-size a tiny bit , then just Thread-tap the hole to a tiny big larger Grub Screw ? Easy job to drill and tap new screw . the longest part of the job is disassembly and re-assemble again . .

As it was listed as in 'Excellent Shape' and 105 years old, Curiosity got me, So I did go check-out the 29-4 that I linked above because the nicer 29-4's are slimmer pickings to find now in the 21st century . It Still sewing 5.5 to 6 SPI . It is dull and not shiny, But original paint and decals are thin . Original wooden table drawer and leather strap stop . The hardwood Treadle drive shaft still perfect shape on the original cast table stand . I really not needing another machine. but you only need 1 guess ? to where it is sitting now .... LOL .

- what ( Kgg ) is thinking . tight area and a Patcher . Over in Portland/Vancouver area there is a used Singer ( 29-4 ) on the Craiglist for 575-$ . You over on the coast but maybe only a half day of your time to checkout . https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/d/vancouver-singer-29-4-shoe-patch-sewing/6938357061.html - Edit Add: I just noticed the Phone # and I know 'ryan' . he easy guy to talk to and knowledgeable on the machine mechanics . 575-$ is a lot for old 29 . it have to be a excellent condition for the price . All depends on how much life still in the oldboy. pics look good though that was posted . . .

Was it wrapped/boxed sitting on pallet on your signing and Pick-up ? Was it visible like it was dropped ? ( did ? ), looks like some jackass on loading or unloading, with the forklift punched it with the fork when it was on the pallet . if so it was the trucking in-between the seller and you most likely that did damage . forklifts have some power so check if table frame really bad out of square also . Just asking, in past I have picked up new machines boxed and shrink wrapped on the Pallet when they delivered to local trucking hub . I sign and have the loading guy set on my truck to take back with me. I look hard, BUT Unless it was obviously 'looks visibly, dropped/damaged, it really hard to see prior shipping damage on machines, and it a double-edge-sword, as trucking hubs really not in favor of you un-cratting and inspect before you sign and pickup . .

- Yamata and buying off Web. like Ebay or Amazon . It is no doubt a good machine and it is not hard to put it together and get running . ( You Should ) get a Tech. to fine-tune and time 'for your application' and for your peace of mind after you get it set-up and running . Well worth paying-$ a hour of his time and see your starting off with good wear pattern and have it running good. That Yamata ( spec. Sheet ) also might be a little bit exaggerating on the #207 thread and 135x17 needle ( rotary hook ) . (imho) that 207 is maybe? pushing it, and It sure be suited better up to #135 thread size . --> Research what presser feet it takes ( are they common ) easy to get . It Always nice to have extra sets to cut and shape to your needs . Also in that Add Link you posted say's, FREE 'standard' shipping all way from Florida ??? holy crap that will save you money ... For that price you buying . I can just about guarantee that they not even looking and touching those machines they shipping out to you. they sending them out in same boxing they get them in from there distributor. It's a trade-off . You getting a machine that is a good design and will work for you for years ( At Lowest Price ) . But you have to pull it out of factory crate and clean-up, put it together and work the bugs out of it and then get timing set-up to your satisfaction . -- Artisan ( as mentioned also ) , is good also on there cylinder beds machines or flatbed. and it nice that if you have question or need a part . that all you got to do is call them down in Cal. and you will get a real human being to talk to you . I have there newer version 12" arm Artisan 3200 and run it for a lot of hours and I got absolutely no bitches about it . ( Machine Repair ) I use/call few guys that off in Portland, Salem and Vancouver for mobile Tech. repair . But You over in Newport on the coast, where/who you call for any Mobil repair over on there ? .

(standing on cutting table) Can't quit catch all of it in this Pic., but this is my imperfect and crappy little sew shop . -

That is a combo straight/zigzag stitch ? , & Drop/bottom Feed ? .. Probably nothing wrong with the thread tension all by itself . That a good machine, but when you start stretching out the stitch With that Machine and feed, ( bottom/drop feed ) . It a combo problem of the Suede most likely the material and grabby texture under Foot & when you ( Stretch-out the stitch length ) . The Suede not feeding in unison with the Dog and giving you all that slop on the bottom side . I run a couple drop-feeds along with walk foot/needle feed/unison feed . and that ( I find ) is common problem with different materials with bottom-feed only and certain materiel under the press-foot and texture of certain materials that don't flow well under the Foot . Stretching the stitch size Big just accentuates problem and it not flow unison with the Dog under the Foot. You will get that Sloppy thread mess underside . Try slowing down stitch-speed and with pressure-foot tension. maybe try a Teflon Foot . Try to figure out a good-Happy stitch length it will flow with . Best way to fix is to run a materials 'pull attachment .but that a spendy-$ fix . Or if you in love with having a combo straight/zigzag . buy that Consew machines big brother, Walk-foot ( 146RB-1A ) . I got this japan Consew and it is a 'strong' workhorse, combo straight-stitch/zigzag machine . .

Was thinking about this also . that class7 cast iron handwheel . with someone who is current at what there doing. It is probably GTG to be able to Brazing it back together with real nice looking repair and structural sound. it will forsure be a couple hour shop time-$ , but I think only way for you to find a replacement would be finding a junk donor head . .

- You can't see me, ...but I am on the floor in the living room in-front of my PC. . ' Bowing Down ' , to you sir .. A full size Pool Tarp on a 111 ... you are the man. .....LOL .

LOL .. ya, I slide all kinds of currency/picture/paper under there . I use a 1/2" thick glass top for a hot-knife cut table . .

That will work great . All a Hot-knife is, is a glorified soldering iron . Until I bought production hot knives, all I used to do is just buy those Radio Shack 100 watt solder guns . Then put/fix a two-prong blade on it, in-place of the solder tips . The smaller watt Solder wands work great also for specific jobs . I cried the day they quit selling those radio shack solder guns with the 2 screws tightening on the end . . I still got a couple of them and one I never used & I always keep my eye's peeled at junk stores for those old 100 watt guns . - .

Nice fix to the tension and multi-height . Easy straight forward fix . Belts look good also . Sleeping, I love that feeling when my eye's blast open and the answer to a sew problem that I been haggling with all day just pop into my head . Sometimes the simple is hardest to see. .

what ( DrmCa ) . say's , there are tables with wiring switch off ebay or amazon ..etc . . I would concentrate on a 'plywood Lam. top' , over getting those cheaper pressboard top tables sold . Then just get a servo and put under it . wire it up and get it running .go over to ace hardware a get a belt ...etc . If you not all that handy with ( DIY ) from scratch , you better off ( pay more money) getting a hold of a shop/local Tech. around here that does repair and have them set one up. so all you have to do is drop your head in, put the belt on and and tun power On and sew . .

- Fresh glue and spray adhesive is pretty obvious (common sense) a No Go . You can set anything on fire if you try hard enough or not paying attention . Flame and burning-off thread tails, cauterizing fraying edges is pretty everyday common practice and nothing to really worry about . Bic Lighters by every machine and keeping a good hot knife is good tools to have and learn . .

The Top belt drive pulley has sides, so belt rides in a Chanel, so it cant walk right or left . . On the belt not riding on the bottom drive pulley and walking off to side . The surface might be worn and making the belt walk off . ( best Guess ) .. surface wear/friction over years . Surfaces do not always wear-out even and flat . I have seen this before . As for the rest of questions, cant comment as I have never owned that model . .

- What ( trash treasure ) says .. with the machine strung-up so wrong, wakes one wonder if you have needle correct to the Bobbin assembly. Obvious you have tension problems from Pic's . Along with, You using a upper-end Thread size that this machine can handle . it will do #135 nicely, but it needs to be set-up right and proper to run it . but It obvious you not strung-up appropriately from your spool of thread, tension assembly and down to the needle itself . You stated in your 1st Post that ..." it was working when bought it ". . but not now, when you started sewing at home . ' But' , Was this machine actually already strung-up and sewing #135 when you bought it ? . before bringing home ? What Needle ? are you using . Are you using a 22 size/hole ? . is it a 135x5 ? . or 'even better' been change up to a 135x17 needle ? Do the throat plate and the feed dogs have a nice clean and large enough hole to accommodate your #135 thread with 22 needle ? Also is your 'Bobbin tension' with the larger 135 thread needs to be set-up proper . There is so much wrong with the pic's and your descriptions along with you not knowing what to do, you should probably use a person to actually use hands-on and set of eye's to string-up and setup to run larger Thread on the 111 . .

excuse me for my misuse of the the word 'manufacture' , inplace of word importer . Also pardon me, I have nothing to bitch about sewing with different Threads bought from different vendors because I should have ordered Thread direct from Serafil or Amann in the first place . .

Precisely.. it is All Quality Control of material . It has to do with free market of course with price and profit . . Most of fabric and threads are manufactured overseas because they have FAR LESS EPA burden, regulatory control, Taxes and Labor cost than USA forcibly mandates . But it boils down to what the manufacture is willing to order and pass for acceptable quality of thread he is buying from the factory and going to sell to it's distributors, that gets sold retail sales to your or my machines . And I not saying ALL imports are crap that are coming in here and fall on my cutting table or Thread running threw the machines . But Manufacturing overseas at a better cost on the bottom-end . Should not release the burden from the manufacturer that is subcontracting the runs of Threads or other fabric materials from keeping good QC that falls on the end to it's customers . When I find a distributor that I see has good smooth running Thread coming to my door I am a loyal customer ...LOL . past few years I have really been struggling to source out better quality of materials I use in the shop and Facts don't lie that it is a real crapshoot sometimes buying Import runs . and 'especially Thread' because I not ordering a few rolls of a color . I ordering box's of one color . .

I think it all depends most on where your sourcing materials you sew with . Thread is biggest most important item, that most people overlook . It all your machine eats and it holds all your work together . And Crappy Thread can make the most perfect job look bad . Where does the Thread you buy, Come From ????? I would like to also throw out there, that maybe poor quality threads are Maybe ? Imports that your supplier is buying and selling . ( Poor Quality Control ) All threads are not equal, and I think a lot of Threads these days is just crappy manufacturing with poor quality control of Cheep Import manufacturing . I have experienced several 'Import' items over the years that are complete Crap when put up against US manufactured product . especially import Binding tapes, webbing, fabrics that are hideously out of spec. and poor weave . As well as most of the Cordura Copy import fabrics I find the Urethane PU spray backing is total crap and the Asian imports scrimp on the Chem. process there also . The Urethane finish on the backing of US manufactured rolls is far superior to the cheap imports . .

Ya, Black is usually the most stiff I find for color . Don't know if maybe the dye is heat-set, or it is just the mineral/Chem. used in that specific color ? I know commercial dyeing is 'Chemical science' and is really in depth knowledge of a trade with sourcing Mineral and Veg. properties of color . I am sure that all the different colors dye can show in the end process, a different finish to a weave or thread . - ( williaty ) : ..." I played with the red and black threads in my hands and they were a hell of a lot different. The black thread felt soft and supple like I'd expect bonded nylon to be ". It, your (black thread) might have been a manufactured 'soft finish ' thread . I have some that is soft finish and they do tension different from the other bonded nylons . I got some Silver-grey soft finish 69, that is the most different to tension from the rest . I buy one color of #69 Lb. nylon cones that I love and is a med. Tan/beaver, I have bought it from 2 different sources and it is rough as a cob compared to other colors . .

I bet you did Not pick that up and carry by yourself to your truck ...LOL . Did you get a table set-up with it also ? or just the Head by itself ? Class 7's are a BadAss , ever see one sew through silver dollar ? .

I dont run a Juki 1181, but I do run Juki double needles . but I would not hesitate for second to run a du1181 for full-time setup, it is a sound machine . My daily workhorse is a consew walker and bernina 217 setup in 2 station that I jump on the most everyday, but I run 6 other stations with singers, artisan, mitsubishi . also a serger head put up on the shelf that comes in handy once in a while . I been through a LOT of machines but my personal sew workspace is tightly limited to right at 7 to 8 sew stations at one-time, with keeping 2 cutting tables and shelved material and fabrics ..etc . New & Used .. Keep in mind also that the Consew rb206 is a BIG seller for a everyday workhorse and have huge following for a good reason . I see them used all over the place, with a good buys popping up regularly . And new heads under 1-K and full table setups starting in around the 1200-$ range . Also what ( dikman ) say's . ( For good used ) buy, If you run into one, I would not hesitate to setup a used 111 or 211 Singer . They are still to this day a Great machine . I see them popup for sale around here in the NW area and I really not looking for one, and I sure you can catch them around your area down south in CA. if you keep your eyeout for them because they are out there in huge numbers still being used . . edit add: you also asked on the one Post about shipping a machine . ..." I am in northern california so I would need it shipped. I wonder which shipping carrier they use ". When you have anyone ship a machine to you from anywhere in the US, normally truck shipping will not deliver to a residence and only business, and the driver and truck don't normally have a forklift to remove a large package anyway. So what happens is that whoever the person shipping is using for there carrier . a machine will be trucked to a local carrier terminal that the carrier is associated with in your town or a town close by . Then you just drive over and sign for it and pick your machine up there . .

( other good brands also ) but Juki is a good brand and they build off of common parent machine designs that are widely used world wide, so part are everywhere and reasonable price . also (rockyaussie) said that the small cylinder bed copies is a good choice also, and he is correct . It all just depends 'what you want to sew' when you start your purchase . ( IMHO ) .. I always recommend that a person buys on there 1st purchase a good everyday workhouse, and then build there other machine stations around it . Your daily workhorse is the machine most jump behind used everyday for doing your work . Your everyday workhorse choice besides have good selection of produced parts and a design machine that is not going away anytime soon . It also needs to have a good common produced selection of Presser Feet, of different size/shape available . Or at least a supply of reasonable price presser feet for you to cut and shape trim to your liking . .

Your in CA. . don't know your exact Addy. And if you were to drive over and pickup yourself . but if you were to go ( new machine ) . and good everyday workhorse, walkfoot, with Juki parts reasonable and plentiful . Alberoni over in Anaheim, has ( Juki DU-1181 ) for 1150-$ . And that would keep your in your budget for buying a new machine about shipping cost, if you cant drive to pickup . for example last time I bought from them . shipping a new machine on truck ( farther than you would need ) , up I-5 N. to Portland OR. was right about 140-$ . .