nylonRigging

Who can tell me ??? , Is there any Sew machine brand name in 2021 , that does not subcontract some or all parts from China ? Juki is a solid machine . And the last New Juki I bought say's .. Made In China .....LOL , But It is all about QC and the quality of part Spec. by the manufacture, even body finish and outer coating . Even so, I have a couple clones that run like Champs and most likely will outlive me, to sold to someone else and used for years. .

Hey also ..when you setting zigzag adjustment and doing Needle L and R on the Hook rotation . some needle have a little longer needle scarf cut , So make sure you not tapping the Hook top bottom of the scarf . .

You doing large skin/panels on Ultralites ? , just curious if you thought about getting a 2 or 3 point Cam for the work . And yes, that was the 146 I was looking at ...LOL , a good buy does pop-up every now and then. That is a solid machine . .

hey noticed that you up North of me . Did you pick that Consew up off craiglist ? , I noticed a couple of RB146's on there for sale few months back and one was cleam machine and a good pricing . II was even mulling over doing the long drive up and back I-5 to buy it . --- With you drive belt off the hand wheel . And with the Presser Foot in UP position off the dogs . Your machine should spin pretty free by hand . 1st look, easy pretty Common ---> Is the Needle Plate binding/rubbing against the feed dogs, when you rotate by hand ?? . after screwing down the needle plate look and see and 'feel' with turning machine over by hand that the Dog not being the friction spot . If you have removed the dogs and needle plate to service . When replace them back with leaving your 2 Dog screws not tight . then when screwing the plate down, you can align the feed dog for clearance . The 2 screw heads on Dog, easy seen and just tighten down . .

( Gib ) .. not, Jib . and I know . the factory book illustration looks like they hired a chimpanzee to do there drawing ...LOL the Gib is ( plate-part ) sits behind the Hook, that is part of the outer bobbin assembly, and the Gib hold the basket on it's guide track that spins inside the outer Assembly . The outside bobbin assembly Hook and Gib . the Basket that spins inside it, is what you snap your M-size bobbins into . It is something that I am not an expert in at doing because I might only 'Time' do it every 2 or 3 years on the 146RB , but I remember it all gets a lot clearer when you start doing and watching the needle plunge on that stroke on the bobbin assembly . And, to show you ... I just dug out an 'older' used , complete bobbin assembly for 146RB1A , that I keep in case I need to rob a screw or part . KEEP all old bobbin assembly's, when you repair. because all those screws on bobbin assembly are all obnoxiously tiny and very easy lost if dropped . ... LOL , And I already have robbed a screw off this old Gib . Popping a Pic. of it and try to point to ( Gib ) . and if you look at yours on your machine . You will see it is held on with 3 screws . The tip of my pencil is what the manual picture is showing , in relation to the needle plunging past end of Gib . .. also, everyday of sewing, put a tiny drop of oil on that little guide track the basket spins on . - -

I got this machine and book , I always remembered it as being a little paininAss to get the timing just perfect . Tuning to get strait stitch and zigzag stitching threw all the stitch lengths, and plus all doing it all in reverse . That is a real Good quality straight/zigzag combo stitch machine and yours in the Pic. is made in Japan model to . I remember that when it say's .. " set Hook Gib 0.5mm " .. that there for me .. was just a tiny plus\minus to get it all to clik . also I remember 1st to set the needle center and to se the zigzag width all proper adjusted, before start on the needle-hook timing . -

Appreciation sent for the time spent looking at this . The Needle and the 'Eye of ', is a small and overlooked thing, but the work quality we expect of it is big . .....thanks .

HAHAHA LOL .. I tried there service Dept. for a fix of new Consew servo I bought couple years back .. Servo is one of there nice model . 750 watt, 4 button programmable csm3000 .( No NPS ) . Looks pretty much same as your model Pic. Mine ... Turn on . It hammers-out 5 stitches on the power-up . Consew customer service Center . They are a Joke , and All They Could Tell Me Was , ... "send us a video of your problem " . I hung-up the phone and went back to work . Labeled---> ' PREMIER BY CONSEW ' .. my Ass . Consew CS is worthless on giving usable knowledge to customers mechanical problem . .

Hey, just poking fun . . and I can feel your pain, I spent last couple days binding on radius items. Over the years, I have picked out many a stitch out of seam Binding on an radius item, just to re-bind the job over again . Doing Single and double-needle binding radius, There is definitely some acquired technique to it, but a Lot of the battle is getting your setup tuned just right . .

- modification of threads title .. Having problems binding around corners 'Radius Curve' . If you having difficulty binding around Radius curves ? Then you will find little Joy with 'Turning Corners' . .. LOL .

for purchasing Binding and Webbing's , If I getting more than 1-k yards, or wanting a very specific dye color/tone for matching materials . I will just go direct to Bally Ribbons Mills . I live in Oregon, so if I ordering them from a supply Vendor, I usually just stay here on the US. W.coast here, and usually order/buy them from John Howard Co. down in Chino California . . I know I posting Pic. of Heavy Nylon Binding, 'But' I find the X-Over from Binding Leather or Fabrics is really very similar/same for Setting up Binder mechanics and feeding set-up. Is the 1st time I ever setup a machine with this large a needle for Binding . But the Second I seen those Pic's Uwe posted of the KH set-up, I had to get it to use . For last 30 years I just have been fond of, and sticking to just Needle-Feed machines, single needle and double needle, like Singer 111/211 and newer juki model also . There is a new learning curve I am grasping because the 441 clone/model is flatass just a brute compared to the machines I normally Bind with, but the thing will needle threw about whatever you can get shoved threw the binder throat . 441 shuttle also seams to work well with the lighter weight 138 and 207 threads . .

Quick Update Bump-up .. Finally been putting a couple hours behind that KH swingarm binder on the 441 shuttle doing a new pattern, and working out some small bugs with also getting a feel for the way it likes to be fed . I just using some 1" type2 nylon binding tape binding around radius's on some panels . It starting to shape-up to be a pretty decent working Binder . The Machine size itself is a little bit of a bully for binding, but better to have to much needle, than not enough punch power . - -

when in doubt ? , for the finish look and outcome of new pattern and materials . I usually just mock up some sample pieces/panels to punch holes and thread threw, and scrutinize top and bottom with my choices . You only using 1 machine ? . Test 1st to see what you can actually get away with on the thickness of the stacked combo of leather and fabric. Thread ? , looks like they just using 69E for thread on the canvas/oil cloth on the main fabric body . For leather pieces it your choice for thread size, but little bigger than 69 will look better. Needle ? . looks like you will mixing it up between using a fabric and blade point . Or . you can use just fabric needle for all . Your Pic's. example, for the shoulder straps and the top weight bearing load spot . show the Fabric/canvas in the middle, between leather on top, and a leather backer reinforcement inside . So I would assume they are using a leather blade point when sewing the leather . And if look at your Pic. there is a couple spots like inside bag top corners/closing flap, where there is a couple leather reinforcement backing square . canvas finish outside, leather inside bottom-side .Your going to use fabric needle on that because you will cut the Canvas thread weave on the outside finish . .

Bump this back up .. Something that I just took note of . Is that I just changed out Press-Foot drive assembly for less than 100-$ shipped .. LOL .. Cant do that with Adler or Pfaff . - -

Also .. It maybe just a 1-minute simple Fix adjustment, so check this 1st . The whole tension assembly slides inward and outward . There is a small screw hold-down to your tension assembly @ about 3 or 4 o'clock R-side, that screws against the barrel of the assembly holding it secure . Loosen screw, and slide the Assembly inward just a little bit and re-tighten screw lock . See if this takes-up the gap to the push-pin, to make better contact for tension release. .

On this post bed design machine, Roller foot feed, with needle bar feeding assembly . It is a really different piece of mechanics to me . For what little I have done so far with it . I seems to be a real smooth/fluent with the feeding and stitching . Pic. is face cover off, and showing the links for the roller foot drive, and needle bar assembly. - Also, on the bottom underside shaft . There is a ( safety clutch block assembly ) , with a non-metallic composite connection plate in between .

----- I just this afternoon picked up the pallet and setting-up this exact model duel drive Post Bed you talking about, branded a Model 4618 by Artisan sales down in the bay area CA. All the sales description say these models are 'duel drive' , but also they say Needle Feed . It does have a small amount of needle walk on the shaft stroke . Does seem to be Very Common design post bed being bought by several vendors . I would also really like to know the Parent machine that it is copied from ? - -

Unless you can live with the same needle spacing for all jobs . Only thing you might want to check on is the pricing-$$ , of changing out different size needle gauge sets ? .

purchasing New ? or , Used . ? If I wanting something very specific, I just buy new . But for Used and you flexible like age, wear, specific model build .. I just keep an eye-out on my NW. area Craiglist for used machines if that the rout you choose, just keep steady eye on it once a week and look because around here are always at least a 100 random sew machines always up to dig threw . If you wanting/looking New and ( actually In-Stock ) that can go out the door now . I know that Artisan just got a new fresh shipment of Post Beds in this week, very common design that imported in and sold by a few different sew vendors . https://www.artisansew.com/postbedmachine.html .

Total price for everything on that kH binder system , synchro Swingarm , raised Feed Dog , raised Needle Plate, and Binder . ( all shipped ) . is just under 240-$ That is just a killer price for the quality of mechanics that I received . I seen that and I could not walk by and pass that up, had to get one and mount it up and check it out . 'Same here' .. Shipping is 'surprisingly' super fast speed pack, for me on W. Coast it was ringing my doorbell in about 5 days after a email notice sent . I highly recommend to anyone on the fence and thinking about getting .. All hardware was true and correct in mounting . The Synchronized Swingarm mechanics, is about as simple as it gets, and works perfect . system is 'pin fit' and witnesses movement with the raised Feed Dog movement . .

Well string it up, sew and see, figure out what he was doing ? . it;s interesting, he had something in-mind for taking an interest with doing that setup . looks like he is still keeping/using the the knee press-foot lift with factory tension unit . Did you ask previous owner what size thread he was trying to run on the top thread ? Did you ask previous owner what size thread he was trying to run on the top thread ? . was he trying to use 138 on top ? . I have very similar looking DB body , but I did not have to add that much extra tension on the machine to punch thicker and heavier, and to make good looking stitches top bottom . but I only using nylon #69 . The L-bobbins in my DB are pretty small but OK volume for using #69, but L-size is small and a lot of bobbin changing when sewing . .

I know my Mitsu.DB .. that was a weak point for sewing heavier and thicker . I put a heavier tension spring and new disks on it, with also using a Thread Post w/ tiny tension disk . 'interesting'.. So yours might have been MacGyver'ed even better approach, with that added tension setup put on it . Sew with it and let me know if that works well, I very well could be adding that to mine . .

Identify finding parts , Most wear parts for that machine are Mass produced common/plentiful and economical that cross over to many name branded machines that ALL SHARE Same Parts . I have no idea what the 1st Parent machine design was copied for the Mitsu.DB's . But Mitsubishi made many thousands of them in a lot of different model and then a crapload of DB-### re-branded name models . It's a VERY Common high shank foot bottom feed design machine . - - DB's don't get any respect on a leather forum , but It is, what it is .. DB's are good economical machines that sews pretty good for a ( bottom feed ) . it's a machine that uses it's primary feed with the bottom Dog Only . Sews great with 69E. has big selection of very narrow to Wide presser feet shapes, with dogs, needle plates ..etc. Main design was for light/Med. fabric weight and moving fast RPM . but you can easy slow them down for more precision stitching for little more heavier materials . The negative .. Your going to have 'Dog Tracks' on the bottom side of some soft leather, when using Presser foot or a roller foot . Sometimes that really matters, sometimes not , fabric never . But It a sewing machine that comes in handy for certain jobs, and handy one to keep around when you can have several machines in your stable . I see that you have a Roller Foot/dog/needle plate, on that Pic. and they sew good with roller when you 'slow them down' on the RPM with a nice servo . Roller foot good for certain jobs, and will delete the sliding/friction of a presser foot for a more fluid movement. .

You did not sew with it before buying ? . Only way your going to know if it's worth the price paid . You need to oil and manually cycle the machine. You need to plug it in, string it up, and lay down some stitches . If it a mechanically sound stitching machine, then 300-$ is a OK price. .

( depending on machine model ) .. what about a shorter length table-top set-up ?. . Or a half table top with a left-side hinged drop leaf, to swing up/down when needed ? .