Burkhardt

The blade is all of a 1/8th thick and that's the reason I went with @chuck123wapati because I am much more comfortable pushing rather than pulling and on a straight edge there's so much control with the overall low profile I'm happier I went with this vs a round knife.

Haven't heard anyone on hear talk about the Renia Aquilim 315 Contact Cement, water based, spreads like a dream and tacks up quick. Haven't heard of a strength test vs Barge or the others but I haven't had anything come apart.

Just got this blade in the mail today from @chuck123wapati that is completely flat on one side and cut's like butter through leather. Look him up.

I struggle getting the spacing right on doing them on vine work, I would butcher something that long. Looks good.

Are those just stacked mules foot that you used for the stamping? It's amazing the different ways a stamp can be used for different designs. Looks good.

Don't know if you have a sewing machine or not but if you do start with a ad on like Facebook with custom sewing and use a whole bunch of different keywords for your leather work vs individual pieces to come into someones search boxes who are looking for something.

Some things you didn't say is what leather are you using and why are you dyeing it if you are using antique? It's all confusing because my question was when I started was if you use a resist, then why are there different colored antiques? It's because the antique will always leech through a little, the color of antique will dictate how dark it will get. If you don't resist and even use like a tan gel antique on the leather and wipe off as quick as you can it will be black as night. On import leather it's colored so light from the start that I've dyed before antiquing. On Herman Oak if you oil it, then resist and use a light colored antique it will end up lighter as the darkening from the oil will fade away over time.

Thanks it looks really nice.

PM me about the machines.

Looks to me in the pictures the dark spots in the broken area it has been failing for awhile probably a bad casting from the get go. The crack probably started when they machined it.

You could also hit the wet edges with a piece of canvas or old denim to get a better edge before trying to slick it.

Was this just dyed or was it antiqued to get the color it is? What did you use?

That lacing on the edges looks cool as hell.

I think it looks pretty darned good. If that's your first I'm gonna have to practice a lot more to say my first looks that good. Is it me or does it look like it has a reddish tint to it?

Thanks for the help. Thanks Wiz.

I said thanks for the info kind of. I said nothing about not being impressed, I actually liked the chart. It's the last paragraph that again questions my knowledge and soon to be machine That's why I asked about nylon or polyester for UV protection and when going to a wider strap go with heavier thread or more stitches. Hence my lame attempt at asking the question.

Thanks for the info, kind of. I don't understand where you guy's come up with the assumptions about my sewing and/or the machine. In the few posts I've asked questions I say I'm buying a Class 4 which I think is more than capable to do the job.

See you're assuming again. 4-wheeling in my world is either my 1978 CJ5 on 38s or my 1979 Bronco on 40s. I own from 1 inch to 8 inch that you snap to get trucks buried in mud out, not Atvs that I also own and use the 1 inch for tie downs not recovery. I use 3 inch ratchet straps for tie downs when trailering.At the 4-wheeling events they have people at them that cut with the heat knives and sew them custom right on site. It's not rocket science. And I asked about thread not webbing.

You got that I don't know anything about sewing and have no idea about straps because I asked where to buy bulk and nylon or polyester thread? Each site you look one says nylon and the rest say polyester for the U-V. They are sewn in a box-x pattern. I've been 4-wheeling for over 35 years and probably own more straps than you've ever seen.

They seem to have everything thanks for the info.

Not sure if I put this in the right section, sorry if I didn't. Question I have is which thread is better for sewing like tow straps of lifting harnesses? I'm sure you don't use a leather needle so you don't cut the fibers and use a round point. What size thread also for up to 6 inch wide straps or doesn't it make difference and you just add more stitches do to the extra width vs one that's narrower? And finally do any of you know anywhere that sells the strap itself in bulk. Thanks in advance for any advise.

It's a matter of do you want the foil debossed or are you OK with just the stamping foil. You can get a hot stamping machine for under 500 or up to 5000 with automatic foil advance and you can make the the holder so you can repeat every time. Check in the marketplace on here or Tandy or Springfield Leather.

Thanks for the info. It's at a local auction so without knowing what model it is was tough to figure if it was worth looking at.

Can any of you tell what model this machine is?