Burkhardt
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Everything posted by Burkhardt
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Where were you guy's when it seemed like half of the forum here jump down my throat for saying you can't use olive oil on leather. But yes, the 2 products you named should work fine.
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The blade is all of a 1/8th thick and that's the reason I went with @chuck123wapati because I am much more comfortable pushing rather than pulling and on a straight edge there's so much control with the overall low profile I'm happier I went with this vs a round knife.
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Haven't heard anyone on hear talk about the Renia Aquilim 315 Contact Cement, water based, spreads like a dream and tacks up quick. Haven't heard of a strength test vs Barge or the others but I haven't had anything come apart.
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Just got this blade in the mail today from @chuck123wapati that is completely flat on one side and cut's like butter through leather. Look him up.
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Really it's jackasses like you in their group think has has never used either and to say it's do to being cheap shows the level of moron you are. Have you ever watched Don he uses olive oil on everything he makes so someone known nation wide would certainly have complaints about his work, right? Please say he's a hack and we'll take a pole and see who's the idiot.
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How much would you like to wager on that? Put your money where your mouth is.
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Don Gonzales and Denny Lowe from SLC. Look at any of Dons videos and before Denny started at SLC that's all he used in saddlery. I'll wait while you pull your foot out of your mouth.
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And I said know it all , prove me wrong instead spewing your ignorance. You can show the pictures of the rancid leather.
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Put on a piece of leather and show me stored in normal conditions. I've got stuff 4 years old that looks as good as the day I did it. And to use a comparison with seasoning a frying pan is idiotic.
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And here I thought I was going to hear it for mixing the oil and dye. Veg oil is just as natural as olive oil and anyone saying it will go bad are basing it on hear-say. I've been using it for years just like people use it on baseball gloves and other leather and it doesn't go rancid. Both Don Gonzales and Denny Lowe said they've heard of saddle makers using veg oil also.
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I'll probably get hammered for saying this but I mix the dye with veg oil in Tupperware because I hate the little dye bottle messes. You run the chance of over oiling to get darker but I add more dye to oil to darken it. The import leather is trial and error. I have to dye the leather before antiquing where as Herman Oak I don't. Get some of the scrap veg bags from Springfield leather and you will get a good mix of both types of leather. Every bag I've ever gotten has big enough pieces to actually make items out of, wallets, sheathes ect.
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I struggle getting the spacing right on doing them on vine work, I would butcher something that long. Looks good.
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Are those just stacked mules foot that you used for the stamping? It's amazing the different ways a stamp can be used for different designs. Looks good.
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Like JazzBass said above oil first will help dye take more evenly, but remember every coat of dye will get darker and darker with every coat you add. Dye's not like paint where you can keep painting over for even color.
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Don't know if you have a sewing machine or not but if you do start with a ad on like Facebook with custom sewing and use a whole bunch of different keywords for your leather work vs individual pieces to come into someones search boxes who are looking for something.
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Some things you didn't say is what leather are you using and why are you dyeing it if you are using antique? It's all confusing because my question was when I started was if you use a resist, then why are there different colored antiques? It's because the antique will always leech through a little, the color of antique will dictate how dark it will get. If you don't resist and even use like a tan gel antique on the leather and wipe off as quick as you can it will be black as night. On import leather it's colored so light from the start that I've dyed before antiquing. On Herman Oak if you oil it, then resist and use a light colored antique it will end up lighter as the darkening from the oil will fade away over time.
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Thanks it looks really nice.
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PM me about the machines.
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TechSew 5100 -- metal piece sheared right off!
Burkhardt replied to SewMuchToLearn's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Looks to me in the pictures the dark spots in the broken area it has been failing for awhile probably a bad casting from the get go. The crack probably started when they machined it. -
You could also hit the wet edges with a piece of canvas or old denim to get a better edge before trying to slick it.
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Was this just dyed or was it antiqued to get the color it is? What did you use?
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That lacing on the edges looks cool as hell.
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I think it looks pretty darned good. If that's your first I'm gonna have to practice a lot more to say my first looks that good. Is it me or does it look like it has a reddish tint to it?
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Thanks for the help. Thanks Wiz.
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I said thanks for the info kind of. I said nothing about not being impressed, I actually liked the chart. It's the last paragraph that again questions my knowledge and soon to be machine That's why I asked about nylon or polyester for UV protection and when going to a wider strap go with heavier thread or more stitches. Hence my lame attempt at asking the question.