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Found 172 results
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Hey everyone, I'm new when it comes to sewing machine and just got a Neel's Saddlery Model 5 that brand new but didn't come with an installation guide or user manual. I have everything (machine, table, peddles, engine, etc.) but it's not put together. Does anyone who has a model 5 be willing to scan or fax me a copy of their Operational manual / parts book or user guide / installation guide if there is one. I'm a fish out of water without that essential item. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Weston
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Hello fellow leather crafters. My name is Firdaus Hilmy from Malaysia, so please excuse my poor English. I've been a member for nearly 2 years now but never post a topic before. I know there are few posts regarding to this topic but not quite answering my questions I'm about to ask. I want to make a long wallet like this Hermès MC2 Fleming wallet. The wallet slots are fully lined with leather. So, my question is what is the suitable thickness for each slots, the front and its lining? From your experience, what is the suitable leather for this wallet? Is goatskin suitable for this? Thank you in advance and sorry for asking too much questions. Really appreciate if you guys can help me with this.
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I am making these ribbons for my wife, she is the caretaker of a horse boarding and training facility and she organized this (her first) trail competition and it is taking place this weekend (yes I know Halloween was last weekend) so time is not on my side, I want it to go well and wanted to make some nice ribbons. I was happy to be almost complete tonight and then ran into this. How to securely attach these center buttons to the bow. I know I could glue it but there is very little surface area and I have already applied saddle lac to waterproof the colored portion and bee natural RTC to the buttons so I don't think the glue would adhere very well even if I scuffed it with so little to hang on to and the bows are somewhat ... Springy ... For lack of a better word so the glue would have constant pressure. I know this might be a stretch, but has anyone done anything like these before and might have a suggestion? I don't want a center piece popping out.
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Hi all, I'm pretty new to tooling, and I notice that when the pros do their tooling they tend to work on big pieces of leather and they stay nice and flat while they're being tooled. I'm working on tiny things like fobs and patches, and about halfway through a project I find the leather curling up so bad it starts slapping the stone when I hit it anywhere but where I'm holding it down. I apologize if this is a well-answered problem--I've tried searching this forum but didn't find anything. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Dave Example attached. 8oz leather, approx 2.5" x 5", halfway through tooling.
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Basketweave stamping is quickly becomeing my new nemesis. I just can't seem to 1) stay on a straight line with it or 2) space the stamps properly. I've been watching the Tandy tutorials and always make a guideline and work back and forth on either side of it, but my technique does not seem to be improving. Does anyone have any other helpful hints or suggestions?
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An old freind of mine found a beautiful antique elastic leather repair machine, and he really wants to get it back into operating condition. Problem is we have no idea what kind of machine this is. I cant find alot of information on the machine but will be having a better look at it tonight. I would like to know who manufactured this machine and if there is any availability on parts. Maybe model #, year, maker, anything to help with my search. Thanks
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I recently bought a splitter off the tandy outlet supply site, req $899 got it for around $250. Every time I got to split leather it carves out the centre of my piece and the outer edges are the thickness i wanted. I have tried in several locations across the 8" blade so I know its flat and not a bent blade. Has anyone had this happen to them, could it be my technique or did I buy a lemmon tool. I have posted some pics of the splitter and what its doing. Thank you for your assistance. James Newbie
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First off, I apologize for any mistakes made in this post, I am a very young and inexperienced leather worker. I am making a simple wallet that has 4 pieces of leather total, doesn't fold, and only has 3 slots total. I have made more complicated for others, but for me, I like simple. I dyed the leather with antique, using no resist as I wanted the antique affect and the saddle tan colour. Do I need to put on another finish over the antique like super sheen to seal it in, or can I leave it as is? Most likely the wallet will get plenty of sweat on it, and go in and out of my jeans pocket regularly. If another overcoat to "seal" it is needed, is there anything that I can use that won't give it the super glossy, shiny finish that super sheen does? Here is a picture:
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Hey y'all! A family member has asked me to reupholster her wheelchair with tooled leather. On the back she wants a log with four children sitting on it, facing away, so we see their backs. She wants them to have angel wings and the log to have a branch coming off it with four leaves, one for each child's name. I'm a decent drawer, but this is beyond me. The children need to be sized according to age: 11, 9, 6, and 2. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
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I'm having trouble adjusting the speed on my servo motor I got with my Juki-Lu563. It's a Nick-O Sew model #NKS-4000. [imgur](http://i.imgur.com/hhYJ8L9.png) I can't find a manual for this and Nick-O customer service doesn't seem to have much knowledge of the issue. When I turn it on, the display just reads zeros and then the exterior diodes (idk what they're called) create a rotating circle going clockwise. The servo works, but I can't adjust the speed. pushing the arrows does nothing. When I got the servo, it didn't have a fuse, so I had to replace it, but other than that it seems fine. I would appreciate any help! Thanks,
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Hi all,does anyone out there know anything about the sewpro 1341 or sewpro 1342? Upon a YouTube search of the Juki ls 1341,I discovered this machine. The dealer,SEWPRO USA,happens to be located in Ephrata Pennsylvania,which happens to be in the heart of Amish and Menninite country. There is a large demand for horse products in this area which also happens to be close to me.I don't know anything about Sewpro USA or the quality of their sewing machines and was hoping someone out there would know something or have used their machines. The only thing I've heard is sewpro makes a great servo gear reduction motor,the 500GR. I am curious if anyone has experience with their sewing machines and if so are they of good quality?. I am assuming they are made in China but do not know this for a fact. I would love to have a Juki but the price is pretty hefty for my budget. I will be visiting the dealer early next week to check out the machines first hand and meet Sergey.Is there anything I should look for (red flags) poor quality, or on the other hand,well built and quality? I am hoping to find an industrial machine dealer in my area, that I can count on should the need for parts,support,etc.and not be a 700 mile drive should the need arise in the future. Any tips and input would be greatly welcome and appreciated! I'm hoping this turns out to be a good thing, and will let you all know the outcome. Thanks !
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- juki ls1341
- juki clone
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Hello there, I am looking for some one that knows something about different types of leather so i came here. Now what I am makeing is lacrosse leather (hopefully you atleast know what lacrosse is) as you can see by the picture below Now as you can see the four black"runners" that run down the lacrosse stick is leather this leather needs to be 8oz thick and i will probaly cut the leather myself. Now why am i here? because i want to revolutionize the game.Ok maybe not revolutionize but i want to offer something different to the lacrosse market so my idea is to have waterproof lacrosse leather that still feels like normal lacrosse leather. This has been done once before but all it was was normal lacrosse leather with wax coating but this coating has a wierd feel to it. so i need waterproof leather and make it still feel like normal lacrosse leather Normal lacrosse leather is Vegatable tanned, chrome tanned or alum tanned but these arn't water proof So what i need is a type of leather that is water proof and has to "feel" like Vegatable tanned, chrome tanned or alum tanned by feel i mean have similuar strech and consitancy. it also has to be durrable and 8oz thick (give or take 5oz) for further information you can read this article http://laxallstars.com/traditional-thursday-truth-leathers/ I did some research and i was thinking latigo leather but im not sure hopefully someone can make a suggestion Maybe this is unanswerable maybe im an idiot oh well only youre answers will tell (if you can sell this leather to me or know where i can get some im willing to buy)
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I am in dior need of some knowledge.... Last night my husband & I bought a diamond in the rough. It was a pre= 1980 Original Billy Cook MAKER Greenville, TX 15" cutting saddle. I was BEYOND excited for this find & couldn't wait to clean it up! So today i went to it with soap & water, a sponge, & a tooth brush to get into the floral tooling... the dirt was really deep in there & still wasn't come out so i talked to my friend who has restored a couple older saddle & she said power wash it.... i was a little hesitant but i took her word for it... My husband power washed it on LOW in a fan setting on the washer & now in some spots it looks like the finish has literally been taking off... she reassures me this is normal & i don't believe her. I have put several coats of 100% pure neatsfoot oil on it & it is soaking now but i'm terrified i have now ruined this saddle. But also this saddle has been repaired in a few places that i can see & is very old so scuffs may also be from wear & tear but still, i'm freaking out a little. What are you thoughts? Tips? Suggestions? Kind words to keep me from breaking down into tears...lol Pictures of before & after included...
- 17 replies
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- help
- saddle restoration
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Hey everybody, my name is Scott and I'm from Houston, Texas. I've been lurking here for a while, but this is my first post. I'm interested in making wallets, belts, holsters, sheaths, and eventually bags and shoes. I just got my orders in from Tandy, Barry King, and Abbey England. I think I have most of the stuff I need to get started, but let me know if there are some tools that you think I will need or that will make my life easier. Not pictured is a 12" by 24" poundo board, and I have plans on buying a scrap piece of marble or granite from a countertop shop down the road. I have been reading for hours everynight, but I know I am going to have so many questions once I get started. Next on my list at the moment - buying my first bit of leather. I am pretty sure I am going to go with wickett and craig, probably a double shoulder or something. But any suggestions would be cool. I am a complete beginner, the one thing I do know is that I know nothing. At the moment I have questions about what weight leather I should order. Can I get a reference as to which weight leather I should use for different items. Obviously wallet leather needs to be much thinner than say a belt. Is there a weight I can order so that I could use two layers to make a belt and still have it be the right weight to make say a holster or sheath. Big thanks to everyone who contributes to these forums, I have learned a lot from just lurking and reading, and thanks in advance for any help I receive in the future.
- 3 replies
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- beginner
- starting tools
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I am working on my first carving. I am looking to get some more definition on the edges of the carved lines. I used craftool B197 to bevel all the lines but would like to see some more definition. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to accomplish this. Please help.
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- carving
- definition
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I am wanting some reviews or advice on this machine someone is selling one with a clutch motor in my area and was curious what everyone has to say about this and if it would work for leather. Also if anyone knows what the limitations of this machine would be. and this going price. thanks for any help.
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Hello, hope everyone is well... Need a little help on trying to source this type of leather or at least get a name for it. I don't know much about leather at all but I've done my best to describe and send pictures to suppliers without any success. Please see the attached images. - The leather is 2mm thick and is very soft and flexible. - It can be stretched a little which is a must. - The leather can be scrunched up in the hand. - The back of the leather has a suede finish. - The leather goes lighter in colour when bent etc. (i believe this is like 'pull-up' leather?) The only thing I can find which comes close is nappa but i can only find this in around 1mm, this leather is 2mm thick. Any help on what leather this is or UK suppliers would be amazing! Thanks in advance, Tom
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Hello to everyone on this interesting and friendly forum of leatherworkers. My name is Brett and I am hungry to learn about leatherworking as a hobby and a business. I live in the north western part of Virginia about 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. I find myself in a career field where it is difficult to find a place for someone of my age (53) and with the lack of currently required skills. Not to mention I have hated what I do for the last 8+ years, which makes it hard to go to work and have any happiness. So I am exploring other options for making a living and I am looking for some advice as far as the leather business is concerned. I know hearing about one more newbie wanting to get into the leather business is probably the last thing a professional wants to hear. I have done what I would categorize as leather craft projects in the past. Belts and holsters mostly and all my hand no machines. Unfortunately I made my first holsters when I first became a gun owner (I had experience with firearms in the military)and did not know very much about either. That was 25 years ago and now I am an avid gun owner, shooter and hunter. So before I start spending real money I want to find out if this is this a business someone can break into and make a living? Thanks everyone and anyone who replies. Brett
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Hello to everyone on this interesting and friendly forum of leatherworkers. My name is Brett and I am hungry to learn about leatherworking as a hobby and a business. I live in the north western part of Virginia about 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. I find myself in a career field where it is difficult to find a place for someone of my age (53) and with the lack of currently required skills. Not to mention I have hated what I do for the last 8+ years, which makes it hard to go to work and have any happiness. So I am exploring other options for making a living and I am looking for some advice as far as the leather business is concerned. I know hearing about one more newbie wanting to get into the leather business is probably the last thing a professional wants to hear. I have done what I would categorize as leather craft projects in the past. Belts and holsters mostly and all my hand no machines. Unfortunately I made my first holsters when I first became a gun owner (I had experience with firearms in the military)and did not know very much about either. That was 25 years ago and now I am an avid gun owner, shooter and hunter. So before I start spending real money I want to find out if this is this a business someone can break into and make a living? Thanks everyone and anyone who replies. Brett
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Hi there! I'm pretty new to leatherwork and am having some issues with staining. I'm using eco-flo gel antique on some bracelet blanks, but once they're all coloured the dye seems to sticking in all the little pore-like dots in the leather and I can't get it out. This makes it look a little dirty and uneven. As I said, I'm still new to leather work so I don't know if this is something I'm doing wrong? Or something wrong with the leather or the antique? I've attached a picture of the bracelet in question, so you can see what I'm talking about and 'cause my description probably isn't that good! I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has to help me out Thanks!
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I just received my Cobra class 4:) never owned or even used a sewing machine before. its a challenge, but what I would like to know is, how do I make using this easier? I hand stitch everything, so when I received my tax return, I bought the cobra. no telling when an opportunity would allow me another chance, so I jumped. is there any advice on practices or even places that instruct on this matter:) I have tons of crap, and soon that will run out at the rate I'm going. I only ask, because I really don't want to learn poor habits, instead id like advice of some good habits to build on. Thank you:)
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- stiching machine
- stitch
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I found this old leather hatchet cover from my grandfathers house (who recently passed). As you can see from the photos, it looks as though it has some water damage. I Photoshoped his name out with the red just for posting purposes; he wrote his name with a black sharpie on the leather. My grandpa was a huge part of my life and I loved him very much. I want to keep this leather hatched cover as a reminder of him but Im not sure if I should try and repair it in any way. I want to keep it in its original state as much as possible. Does anyone have any ideas or advice?? Thanks!
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Hi all, A customer came in this weekend and wanted a bandolier type holster or a modified Alaskan rig. He wants to wear it on his chest while driving and move it to his side for carrying. It's for a scoped Ruger .17HMR. I plan on lining the holster with spring steel (scoped pistols are nothing new for me) but for the life of my I can't figure out how to attach it all together and make it look good. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
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Hello all! I’ve been pouring over the forums, finding lots of good tips and hints, interesting info and the like. It definitely seems like this is the most informative place out there for leatherworking questions! That being said, I’m a newbie to leather working, though I’ve wanted to try for years. I recently broke down and bought a lot of the starting tools for what I want to do, which is create dog products like collars and leashes. I’ve been making paracord items for the last bit and want to expand my talents/ hobby so to speak! I’d eventually like to make my own dog a service dog harness since vests tend to rotate around his deep but narrow body! But that will come in the future. Now I have a few questions, some are related to other threads I’ve found but such threads were also around 3-4 years old, so I figured I’d have better luck creating a new post in this newbie area! So here are my questions: I am interested in learning how to line collars, is there a tutorial out there on how to do this? Also with that in mind what is the best leather to use to line dog collars? I see things like harnesses padded with a wool type material, is this usual sheep skin? Is there a place that I can buy and/or download patterns for harnesses, and sight hound collars? What would be some good books to read about making dog items? What are the best braiding books? Any handy tutorials on dog collar/leash making? Any suggestions would be helpful! I have a nice base idea of what I’m wanting to do,but since I’m best at following tutorials and patterns then modifying once I have basics done on any craftsy thing, I figured I’d ask.Paracord tutorials are EVERYWHERE but the leather stuff seems to be a closely guarded secret! Thanks in advance!
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OK, new to this...dyeing has been a challenge. But I stacked roper wallets to ship them and the ID holder pulled color. Is there any way to fix these? I have tried Acetone and re-dye but the spots still show. I have no problem totally re-dyeing but afraid to go that far. Otherwise I have to re-make them all. They have Fiebling antique stain as dye color. Then Tuff Kote to seal.