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Showing results for tags 'tooling'.
Found 193 results
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Hi Everyone... Here is a belt bag I just made for client on Etsy. It is tooled, dyed and sewn my hand...
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Hello, I have been doing leather for firemen for about 2 years now. I know what's best for the product i put out. However, I was asked recently to make a duck lanyard for a friend. This lanyard would be used for securing ducks after hunting. I can post a pic of one soon. My question is, what is the best leather to use for this project. I use Latigo for my firemen belts. I am wondering what is a good leather, that can be tooled, and will stand up to wetter. This lanyard would be getting wet and dry and wet and dry over and over again. Any advice on leather choice, conditioning, finishes, any recommendations would be very helpful. Thanks so much.
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Hi everyone, I'm new to leatherwork, and would have normally chosen a craft where there is more room for error, because of my sloppy nature. However, due to my current location, leatherwork is the only feasible craft I can do (seems like getting a cheap workshop/garage for blacksmithing purposes in UK city is nearly impossible at an affordable price...). Anyway, I bought P.Burnett's leather carving bundle and have been trying to go through the excercises, however, I find them rather difficult. I attach an attempt to carve and tool the "deer excercise" from lesson 1, and would appreciate if anyone could advise what's the most likely reason for it looking bad? Some info: -No artsy background, so don't really have a feel for "lines of beuty". -I use a cheap straight swivel knife blade in a cheap swivel knife (one on ebay for ~£5). I wonder how much better would it be to use the angled blade (tiwst cuts are a bit of a pain with the straight knife). -I had to modify the swivel knife a little bit, it was not spining smoothly, but was getting stuck ~ 1/4 revolution. This swivel knife had 2 6mm bearings, one of which I had to remove, but now the knife spins really well (I hope it is meant to be spining freely and not get stuck ~ 1/4 rev !) -When beveling, I try do overlap 1/2-1/3 at each step, and try to do the "jackhammer" (I hold the beveler very lightly, just touching the leather and let it rebound as best as I can). -For casing, I try to do the quick casing described in Lesson 1. -I strop the blade regularly, but I'm not sure if it is sharp enough - if I cut deeply, the leather seems to "wrinkle" a little bit at the edges... Cheers, Leb
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This is the latest belt I made for a friend. Just thought I would share. If the pattern looks familiar, it's because I am still waiting on my mail order art degree from Nigeria and have not drawn one of my own. Mark -
First picture post. I started leatherworking about 5 years ago, didn't start making more than about one or two things a year until this year. I thought I would share, and welcome any critique as I am still in the early stages of learning. Thank you. A belt I made over the weekend. -1 1/2" with a smooth thin strap sewn to the back -Antique Dark Brown over Cordovan Background Mark
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I did this pictoral carving a few months ago. I had never tried pictoral or landscape stuff before, so it's a little rough. It's supposed to be a scene from the Ruby Mountains here in Nevada (one of my favorite places). A mountain reflecting off of a lake in the foreground. I am not entirely sure what I want to do with it as far as color goes (or if I even should). I think color might make it look a little better (if I don't completely ruin it). I thought I would share, I am sure many of you have done this type of thing before, and I am hoping I can get some tips on, at the very least, what not to do. Mark
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I have long dreamed of being able to make my own headstalls. The only issue is that I truly have no clue after posting here of where to begin. I would really appreciate a list of tools I should invest in. A list of materials and where I can acquire the metal pieces for the headstalls, ie: buckles and other findings. I really like the style tack that Heritage Brand, Bling My Ride, Crown Leather etc. I would really love to find someone to apprentice with or to just take lessons from. I am located in Southwest Montana, so if you or someone you know would be willing to give me some hands on help, I would be very eager to learn! I am not opposed to paying for lessons either!
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Greetings! I have been making holsters and knife sheaths for several years, so I have some basic techniques down, but horse tack is new to me. A customer wants a tooled and painted breasted collar and I need some advice on construction and leather selection. The tooling means veggie tan strap leather, but I am concerned about the strength of the piece. Do I just use really thinck strap leather, or do I combine it with traditional harness leather? Left to my own ignorance, I would sew the tooled leather on to a layer of 10 oz bridle leather to give strength and thickness. Also, is there a standard/ recommended width for breasted collars? Links to measurements of any tack would be appreciated. I now live in a horse area and can see more of this work coming up. Thanks! - STEVE -
I've been making these cases for sunglasses. Thought I'd share.
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This is a newbie question, but I finally got my makers stamp and its a kind of stamp I've never used before. It's HUGE and I'm having a hard time getting a clean stamp that isn't "shaky". What is the best way to hammer this stamp?? I'm using a rubber mallot on granite with (obviously) tooling leather. Here's a pic of one stamp that came out right (after several mishaps !)
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Hello Everyone! I just picked up crafting as a hobby and have intensely fallen in love with it. I have a lot of projects in mind but the one I'm about to work on is a knife sheath. I have been watching some videos on wet forming the sheath and I really like it. I did however also want to practice with tooling but I'm not sure if or when I can do that with wet forming. Is it possible to tool a knife sheath and wet form it? If so how would I go about that? Thank you, Chief
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I was recently at the leather museum in Igualada, Spain. They had a large selection of Guadamaciles (spanish tooled leather). I have been trying to learn more about the techniques used in Spain during the 17th and 18th century and would love to know any thoughts you have on the subject.
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Hi Everyone, I have been having some troubles perfecting my beveling for very small objects especially letters. Can anyone give me some tips on how to better tool these areas? i am using the smallest beveling tool offered, and try smoothing areas out with a modeling spoon but it doesn't seem to be doing the trick. I think it still looks a bit sloppy. I've included a couple snap shots of the order i am currently working on. Thanks
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I have noticed that when I use Fiebing's Professional Oil Dye, it looks great on solid backgrounds with no tooling. When I use it on tooling or stamping it does not soak in to the tooling and darken it to where it stands out from the rest of the piece. I don't like Eco-Flo, however, it DOES make my tooling stand out when I wipe off the excess pigment. Is their a trick to using the oil dye on tooling, or is their a product that I can darken my lines with? Its really driving me crazy, because I want to use Fiebing;s only. -
This is a simple technique I use to trace patterns onto my moistened leather. Instead of tracing the patterns to trace paper 1st why not trace it directly onto the leather from the printed pattern. 1st place a piece of food wrap over the moistened leather to prevent the printout from getting wet. 2nd, tape the printout over the area you want to trace the pattern onto the leather. Watch the tutorial to see how I do this. Works perfectly every time and the trace looks really nice. Let me know if it helps you!
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Finally almost finished. Been a hellish year. I know the pics will not be oriented correctly. Didn't think about posting them when they were taken. But now I am using them. Still needs a little forming and some super sheen.
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What do you think of our new tooled leather wallet. Please feel free to offer us any feedback or advice. Thanks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwBIzVlenRI -
Sorry I don't have better pics. Two pocket, creditcard sized, coin-purses. My dyeing technique is coming along. -
So I bought a few Tandy patterns and decided to finally get going with a large back quiver. I've already screwed up in that I burnished the edges before dying, whoops. Guess I was too eager to use my new burnisher. I'm posting pics in order, hopefully I'll have the whole thing finished up soon. I designed a celtic-knot style arrowhead, didn't want to go too crazy with complexity but wanted something interesting to go below the pouch. Used a backgrounder around the arrow and along the edges of the quiver, the leather has some flaws in it that I hope will be disguised at least a bit by that. I wanted to try out some more of my stamps though, so I made a "vine" by going back and forth with a thin scallop edge tool and stuck some leaves on each of the joins. Thought it turned out better than it had any right to, really. Then the dying, I almost went with green but figured I'd save that for another day. I like how much the arrow pops out now.
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I'm going to be making a little leather harness with dragon's wings for my bearded dragon. Ideally, I'd like to do a little stamping on the wings to give them texture (like, say, Craftool E294) and then wet shape them over a (yet to be made) form to give them a more 3D effect with the webbing being depressed and "ribs" being elevated. I've never done wet shaping before and the tutorials I've looked up online all show smooth leather being shaped and finished. So, my questions are: 1) Can you do both stamping and wet shaping on the same piece? and 2) If so, in what order should you do them? I feel like I should shape first and then stamp because the stamping might get stretched and misshapen if you did it first. Anyone have any input on this?
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From the album: RJ's leather work
Custom fire helmet shield -
A recent project, the red is acrylic paint thinned with water for a slightly translucent finish. Finished with a mix of Eco Flo Chestnut tan and Fiebings Dark Brown antique. Stitched on my old Singer Patcher.
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A name plate for a horse's stall done for a friend of mine. I drew the original design in my sketchbook, and will be painting it this week. Still working on carving letters...not my favorite thing.
