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Showing results for tags 'belt'.
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I have been into leather crafting for a few years now but only recently got into belts. Started out mainly making knife sheaths and holsters. I have cranked out a couple of belts with standard basket weave patterns. This is my first attempt at tooling in a pattern. I got this pattern from Joe Meling from twentythreeplus.com. I am extremely happy with the outcome. I need to work on my decorative cuts but all in all I thing it turned out exactly how I saw it in my mind. Made it for a buddy of mine I grew up with whose dad use to do leather work making belts and the like. Just thought I would share.
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I recently posted a tooled belt that I made it is English bridle leather. Well my client gave me his pants size instead of his belt size. I didn't question this because I had made him a belt for his son recently and thought he had given me his belt measurement. Y'all know what they say about assuming. Another lesson learned, question everything. He told me 30" which I thought was a little short but he does have a smaller frame. I verified twice before I cut the blank to length and went to work. When I delivered it to him, it was way short. About 4" too short and this belt was 100% personalized, difficult to tool and a lot of work went into it. If the personalization wasn't on it I'd have just made a new belt and sold the shorter one. So I told him that I would figure something out. This is the second time I've had to extend a belt. The other was a short simple extension. That was years ago, and I have learned a few things since then. Which sometimes makes for more work, but I'm the end it's higher quality. After looking around a bit online reading some information and looking at pictures on this site, I decided to go with a stitched billet extension over the buckled billet extension that adds a second buckle and set of holes. Two buckled on one belt looks funny to me. I didn't have any more English bridle to work with. I purchased the strap and used the cutoff (about 12") to practice carving since this is my first time working with english bridle. I tried to color match as best I could with what dye colors I work with. I added some tooling the the extension to help blend the build together. I think it came out decent, and the extension is mostly hidden when the belt is worn. My only complaint is the color difference but I know he'll be happy with it. Buckshot isn't perfectly centered anymore, but it's really close still. Hermann Oak English bridle strap (weaver) Hermann Oak holster (veg) tanned side (weaver) extension Weaver's Water Buffalo for lining Jim Linnell's montana inspired belt pattern. He's an excellent leathersmith and artist. I don't do his work justice but I love his patterns Solid brass Chicago screws and rivet on the extension Stainless steel roller buckle (weaver) Ritza 1mm cream thread, hand stitched Feibings Dark brown antique with Feibings leather balm
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I've been seeing a lot of ratchet belts and a few people have asked me about them. My usual comment goes along the line of "I haven't made any and I'd have to do some research on them". So here I am looking into them. I started looking for ratchet tracks and a lot of companies make the ratchet belts but the tracks are really hard to find. I found a couple people selling them on Etsy and Ebay but they are the same brand. I can't find an actual company that sales them directly. If anyone knows of a direct source I would appreciate that info. The tracks that I ordered through Ebay are pretty good and the seller was great to deal with. I gave him a call when I had a few questions and he was really helpful with tips to mount them and what buckles work well with the track. https://www.ebay.com/itm/277241899676?itmmeta=01K0SQE5R03ZHFJ6Y637CP450F&hash=item408ce7aa9c:g:ycwAAeSwrd1oYYOR The biggest issue I have is that I would like to sew them in instead of gluing then in. I used a #23 needle but the track is too narrow for the needle. I also tried using a pricking iron and I don't like how close to the edge of the leather it is. I put one together with just glue as a test. 5oz black harness leather and 5oz vegtan liner. The area that has to latch onto the leather is skived down to a total of 5oz so the clamp can actually close. I'm looking for buckles that can actually close down on 10oz. So, does anyone know where I can find these tracks wholesale? What can I do different, if anything, to secure the track better?
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I am a bead working looking for a leather worker who is interested in making belts (or purse straps etc) from inlays that I have made. Traditionally I make about 1.25” by 18” inlays with a dummy rows but am willing to adjust based on individual requests. Imagines of my work are available upon request.
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I can't remember the last time I made a belt for myself to use. My best guess is that it was in 1994, and I haven't used that belt since probably 1997. So this time I decided to make a belt out here on the ship, mainly to use as a everyday work belt (to keep my work pants up), and secondly to have a cozy small project to do. The fishtail pattern was made using a cardboard plate, all stitching is done by hand, and a diamond awl was used to make the holes in the leather. The belt is 1.5" wide and I used Serabraid 1 mm thread for the stitches. I haven't got a stitching clamp or a stitching pony out here, so sewing takes a bit more time since one hand needs to hold the leather, but all in all I am pretty happy with the way it turned out. (My photo skills suck, and natural light isn't in abundance in the engine control room)
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The farrier that shoes the horses in the stable where our oldest son works is into western riding. He is a really nice guy and our son asked if I could make him something for Christmas, just as an appreciation. I agreed and decided that making a western inspired belt would be a nice gift, and something that could actually use. I find that a 1.5" wide belt fits most pants such as jeans etc, so that was the size I ende up making. My idea was to buy a non decorated buckle that I could engrave with something farrier like, but since I couldn't find a buckle like that I ended up making it myself from scratch. The sewing on the belt itself was done on my old Singer class 7. The finished buckle mounted on the belt. The decoration of the belt itself. The leather isn't black, but rather a dark brown. The belt buckled up. Below are som pictures of how I made the individual pieces of the buckle. Silver soldering the part that attaches to the end of the belt. The belt attachment part and the buckle and prong now silver soldered to the buckle itself Front of the buckle with a light sanding and cleaning. Straight from the pantograph engraving machine (I used a picture as model, I can't do free hand engraving so it looks good) Buckle polished and slightly curved
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Decided to make a belt for my middle daughter over the weekend. Second belt, first with the amount of tooling and paint. Pretty pleased and she is beyond stoked.
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Hey guys I make embossed belts with block dyed two tone patterns, my process is dye base a color say red, then block dye with black. Let dry come back the next day and two coats of resolene with buffing in between, but I've experienced some of the black still rubbing off and fading how should I fix this? I'm using near fiebings leather dye (alchohol) non diluted. I was thinking of dyeing black first maybe so it penetrates then going over with base color, im worried it will still rub off and darken the base color as it seems like the black is the hardest to absorb. is there any way to make it absorb easier, i have tried diluting it but hasnt seemed to help that much. -
Wanted to show my first attempt at a belt with some tooling involved. I see plenty of mistakes, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Especially since it's a donation for a school auction. I welcome any critiques and/or suggestions on how to do better. Thank you.
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Here is a NEW design concept I have been working on to cut leather belt straps? The guides and the tooling are self centered. No Setup on tool changes, just drag and drop. What do you think? Any improvements, comments or suggestions? Please share the leather belt strap punch and cutters that you use?
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Hey all, I got an order for a white belt, but have no idea where to source that sort of material without buying a whole hide. If anyone has any white full-grain veg tan or knows of where to get it, I would much appreciate the help!
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I am trying to reproduce an edge style that I like, not sure how to go about it though. I sanded down the edge but now I just have a rather ugly looking tan/grey edge without many loose fibers. How can I get the edge to look more like the reference photos? Those have a really nice raw frayed look and that great dark grey color that contrasts well with the black of the belt. My work in progress: https://imgur.com/a/dvh5fHu What I am aiming to achieve: https://imgur.com/a/09rb6ez Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
Great quality veg tan belt blanks for a steal! 1.5 inch width. ~55 inches long. 8-9 oz Asking $60 for 10. sell one belt and the lot pays for itself If you want more message me and I can cut a deal. I have a lot available Smooth black grain with no blemishes. The underside has no loose grain and is finished brown I’ve made a listing on my site here to keep things all in one place https://laszlosleather.shop/products/1-5in-belt-blanks-10x
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I have a really nice single bend of Buffalo about 7-8 oz. I know I want to make lined belts with it so i bought 2-3 oz side veg tan to line it. My question is has anyone just lined the whole bend before cutting the strips? My idea is that this would create crisper edges and less waste.
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https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/xKz0ZJjqTyKa -
Not only is the cutting edge fast, but even the sanding time will also be significantly reduced, so to speak, the closer the cutting edge is cut to the desired roundness, the more it reduces the sanding time and does not require coarse sandpaper to sand the round shape. Introduction of the product 1. The overall base is made of aluminum alloy with an anodized surface 2. The steel of the cutter head is made of DC53, with hardness treatment to 59-60°. 3. Each head is equipped with 12 sides of the blade, you can replace the blade by angle, which means you can use 12 sides of the new blade, simple and convenient, no need to sharpen the blade often. 4. The net weight of the whole machine is 2.4KG, length 28.5x width 13.8x height 7.8cm About the choice of belt width and thickness 1. The width of the trimmer is adjustable, the narrowest 13mm, the widest 80mm, both shoulder belt and waist belt can be used. 2. 3 # knife head specifications for 3-4.5 mm thickness of the belt strip, which is the most conventional range of belt thickness. (default send 3 # knife head) 4# blade specifications for 4.5-6 mm and above thickness of the belt strip 2 # knife head specifications for 2-3 mm and above the thickness of the belt strip. The grinding of the edge: When we use it for a long time, all the edges are not sharp, of course, all 12 edges are blunt is also takes a long time.
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Hello, I have been making belts for a while and I have been struggling to machine stitch the keepers. I see some people using staples to avoid having to sew the keepers, but I would prefer to sew them using my machines. Does anyone sew their belt keepers with a sewing machine, if so, how do you do it? Thanks in advance.
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Here are a few custom designs that I made to cut the tip/ends of leather belt straps.
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This is one of my 1st belt press/punch that I made for leather belt straps. This is the Hole-Punch for the machine above!
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As a Leather Artisan I have struggled with Edge-painting leather belt straps, so I engineered my own edge painting tools which work great and currently solved all my problems. Does anyone else have an alternative suggestions? I always love to hear and to learn from others and new techniques.
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Custom made belt-press, tip cutter and heat press that I made. The biggest problem that I solved in this build is that I created custom alignment guides so I know where to exactly position the belt during the process. More pictures of my work is available at: https://www.instagram.com/varianibian/
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I made my first leather belt. It was made out of Italian veg tanned 3.6-3.8mm leather, a brass buckle and keeper. I think it turned out pretty good.
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Hi all. Back again with the Juki 1541 with its issues. When I rotate the hand wheel it is fine and smooth up until the needle gets to its lowest point. It then becomes very stiff and I have to use a significant amount more force to continue the rotation. I have felt the belt and although it does feel tighter at this point in the rotation it still moves if poked. Here's a video showing the point where it becomes very stiff. https://i.imgur.com/SVInN6b.mp4 Is this normal? My previous thread about the hook not stopping in the same place I believe is caused by this. If I set my needle positioner to stop at the point shown in the video, sometimes it will continue the rotation and kinda bounce back. I thought this was due to backlash in the gears however I now wonder if its due to the stiffness. It seems to need more force to get past the "stiff" point and then this is too much and it carries on the rotation when it should have stopped. Any ideas? -
I have a slightly used Tippmann embosser for sale. This is a very nice unit well-built and hard to find. Machine allows you to do embossing, creasing and cutting. Comes with embossing wheel that is on the machine in the picture as well as the accessory pack shown in pictures. Table not included. Asking $950 plus shipping.
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Commission from @outlawarchive That’s the Straight Satans patch on the back.
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