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Hi, I need some infos, I have a cylinder arm (GC2603 Typical), I got it used and it was installed on a regular table, no belly cut. While it works for most my sewing I recently started to use metal frames in my bag. The problem is I can not turn the bag around the free arm as it is about 6 inches over the surface of the table. I either want to cut a 14 x 14 belly on my table or cut it completely so my arm is really free. Then I will need to cut my k legs support bars to fit the new width, re-install the leg, move the knee lift and probably other things... So do you know a place I could get either a pedestal or a half size table already mounted on stable legs. Any other ideas are welcome, by the way, I am in Canada.

NEW Techsew SK-4 Leather Skiving Machine with Built in Enclosed Vacuum System $1390.00 I purchased this skiver from TechSew USA for $2695.00. The technician gave me some pointers on how to use an adjust the bell, sharpen and general use of the machine. I have tried to use the machine twice, finding it way too big for me, with the technician on the phone and have given up. It’s a gorgeous machine, brand new, except for the five minutes that I used it in with the built-in, vacuum system and table, it really is a complete unit and would be a great machine in any leather workshop. Skives light and medium leather up to 8oz Up to 2" skiving width per pass Adjustable skiving width Integrated blade sharpener Space saving table - only 33.5" wide Includes assembled table and adjustable speed servo motor

I've acquired an industrial table and I need to lengthen the opening to accommodate my 111w153. The table formerly housed a 44-10. Is there a preferred way to cut these holes? I'm about 3" shy length ways. I have plenty of woodworking tools (except a jigsaw, which seems like the right tool). I've looked online and found a couple of videos and I can sort of envision how I'll do it, but I just wondered if someone had a good tutorial or video somewhere. I have the 44-10, too. Ideally, I'd like to make it so I can swap the 2 back and forth. A couple of pics, just because ... Thanks for any forthcoming help!

My 51 SQFT bison hide came a couple of months ago. Now it's time to finally start making my chaps. I just have to find a big enough table now.

Just ordered a Consew DCS-S4 Skiver head only & will be making my own table top (have a set of K legs & 2 extra servo motors). Could someone tell me the dimensions of the machine's base/foot print so I can get an idea of the size of the table? I would like to get the top started. I have looked every where & no dimensions are listed. I will be using 2 - 3/4" pieces of plywood w/ formica covering. I am also a wood worker so cutting out the trash hole & belt slot will not be a problem. Cut outs will be done after the machine arrives. If anyone has made their own skiver table, suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Herb

Hello Fellow Leather Workers HELP!!! I am in need of a sewing table for my latest cylinder arm sewing machine purchased from Seiko Co. It's a rather heavy beast even though it only sews small stuff. BSC-8BL. Any one know where I can buy one like this? Many thanks! Silverd

Hi I'm looking to remount my Landis 16 head onto a sitting table. Has anyone an example they can show me. I like the idea of retaining the swing out oil drip tray...very cool feature. It may require custom design and fabrication...unless a standard cylinder arm table is up to the task or if someone has plans or one for sale. Silverd

Hi there, I'm just trying to test the water. I've got a juki lu563 that I'm considering selling. I replaced the old clutch motor with a new one from saltire. It also comes with a table. the ,machine is located in the Montreal Quebec area. would anyone be interested? k

Listing for a 96 year old retired leatherworker and saddlemaker in Northern California. The ferdco has a ton of accessories I’ve included one page of the original invoice. The sewing machines are low hour and well maintained as for prices let me know about prices I don’t want my friend to get ripped off or taken advantage of, or maybe his prices are too high, any advice is appreciated. I'm sure any of these machines would come with any of their accessories like rivets, thread, needles, and anything else he has for them, He's been selling everything in his shop. Pics https://imgur.com/gallery/ZIZqXOz Ferdco $3500 Adler $2500 Stimpson riveter $850

Long story, but here's the quasi short version ... Always been a hobby craftsman, wood work, welding and metal fabrication, electrical, plumbing, ranch construction, tractors, and a little sewing on the side ... etc. etc. I grew weary with a cheap Brother machine after repair and tuned ups, moved onto Janome HD1000. Happy with it, except for anything heavy (thread and/or fabric). So I purchased a Juki LU-563 with a new servo, bobbin winder, foot pedal, knee lifter, thread stand, led lighting, and various storage add-ons. Using scrap steel (1x3 schedule 40 structural tube) I had in my shop, I've fabricated a really stout table frame. I'm refinishing a 300 lb sold wood door as the table top (approximately 3' x 7'). I plan to end up with a pretty large and yet semi mobile (frame has casters) industrial sewing set up. I'm at the stage now to start assembling the technical stuff and I have a few questions you MIGHT be able to help with. CUT OUT - Does anyone know where I could find a cutout pattern for the table top? Ideally something specific to Juki 563, but if not then even something generic would be a great starting point. VIBRATION - My set up will end up weighing 400+ lbs and should be very stable, but I still have concerns about shake/rattle/vibration. I plan to set up the table on top of a 1/2" dense rubber floor (commercial gym flooring) and I am also using cut pieces of the same rubber mat between the wood table top and the steel framing, again to reduce vibration transfer. Any thoughts, is this overkill as usual? V-BELT LENGTH - What the heck is the standard/typical length V-belt most commonly used for a servo-juki set up like this? I figured there would be a couple of standard sizes, but found there are seemingly infinite variations! TOP FINISH - Table top finished with HD "heavy traffic" gloss urethane? Any thoughts on how this will serve the sewing purpose? My thought is the gloss will make moving fabric around much easier and a prefer the natural wood look over anything painted, especially when the wood looks great already! 110 OR 220 WIRING - new servo is 110 wired, but I know with my table saw I had it rewired to 220v and it has been more reliable and significantly more powerful. Anyone had a new/modern servo set up for 220v? HEAD LOCATION - I was planning to mount the machine toward the lower right hand corner of this larger table top, leaving more space on the left for fabric maneuvering but thinking about it last night, I started thinking that right in the middle might give me even more flexibility. What am I missing here? Apologies for asking so many questions all at once, my top question right now is really the cutout pattern (#1) but the others are semi-dangerous ideas bouncing around in my head! LOL PS ... I will post some pictures of the table, motor and head when I get a chance. That might help your understanding too.

Hello, I am putting together a workbench to function as a multipurpose space for tooling leather, assembly, stitching, and a little dyeing too. I have access to a lacquered maple butcher block style table top and was wondering if there are any pitfalls about a lacquered finish with regards to general leatherworking? I hear lacquer is a very strong finish, but also tends to be thin and can scratch after some time. I will be tooling on a granite block inset into the table so there's no damage happening there. I might use the table top to bevel edges now and then. Is lacquer a good choice for a table top or should I go with a laminate instead? Thanks!

I'm selling some of my leather working equipment and also some leather, to make room in our small apartment for my son's bedroom! Pickup in San Francisco please for large/heavy items including leather. I can ship the electric iron/edge creaser and zippers if you pay for shipping. VSB Burnishing Machine from Campbell Randall: Brand New (Unused) burnisher for sanding, polishing and finishing leather edges - to end all hours of manual sanding work. Includes leather felt wheel, wax stick, abrasive stone wheel, diamond wheel, and additional work table to rest your piece. New (unused) for $590 (Save $100 vs buying from Campbell Randall directly). Global Industrial Workbench - 60 X 30 inch Solid Maple Wood Square Edge Work Bench- Adjustable Height - 1 3/4" Top. Legs adjust so that table height can be from 27 ⅞ inches to 35 ⅜ inches. Like New for $235 (Save $200 vs buying new on website. Tax & Shipping only is $155 to San Francisco). Granite Hammering Stone: 12x18x3 inch solid granite tooling slab for leatherworking. Used for leather skiving, stamping, and tooling. Excellent condition. $100 (Save $52 including tax vs buying new). French Burnishing electric iron/ edge creaser: Regad M3000 6V Low voltage Power box with wood handle and Right-handed F2.5 Metal Burnish Head. This electric creasing & edging tool is a very popular product for Hermes, Louis Vuitton and other high-end craftsmen creating their iconic creased and polished edges. Regad is well known in the industry for their high quality edging tools and accessories that are made to last. This machine will substantially reduce the amount of time you spend on your edges and will give your projects a polished high-end look. Excellent condition. $400 (Save $230 including tax vs buying new). Wood Sewing Clamp: 51 inches (1.3 Meters) long wood sewing clamp for hand-stitching leather. Excellent condition. $125 (save $50 vs buying new). Hand setter for snap buttons: Hand tool for setting snap buttons on leather. Like New, barely used. $105 (save $100 including sales tax vs buying new). Italian Full-Grain Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto B. Adriacolors Italian high quality full-grain leather in black, red, and off-white. Half-drummed, soft hand and pebble grain finish. 1.2-1.4 mm thickness. Each skin is 43 to 50 sq ft. $129-150 per skin ($100 off vs buying direct and shipping). Italian Smooth Leather: Gruppo Mastrotto Nappacolors high quality, full-grain Italian smooth leather in brown, mustard yellow, burnt orange, and dark blue. Soft, high-quality touch. 1.1-1.3 mm thickness. Each half skin is 23 to 26 sq ft. $130-150 per half skin ($75 saving vs buying direct and shipping). 9. Zippers: Several high-quality zippers from Lampo and YKK. YKK Red zipper tape (11 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 3) - $55 for all or $5/meter YKK Black zipper tape (10 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $80 for all or $8/meter YKK Red zipper tape (6 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5) - $48 for all or $8/meter YKK Beige/Off-white zipper tape (5 meters) with ELITE gold metal teeth (size 5): $40 for all or $8/meter YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 5: $25 for all or $0.50 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (30 qty) in Size 5: $9 for all or $0.30 / each YKK Gold zipper pulls (~50 qty) in Size 3:$20 for all or $0.40/each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T3 Light Gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 12 qty.: $18 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Magenta tape with T3 gold teeth and pulls, finished zippers (18.5 cm long) - 4 qty: : $6 for all or $1.50 / each Lampo Superlampo Black tape with T5 Light gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Red tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty plus 5 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Off-White/Light Beige tape with T5 Light Gold teeth and pulls finished zipper - 1 qty (120 cm long) and 1 qty (77 cm or ~30 inches long) with no pull or end stop plus 4 end stops & 6 top stops: $12 for all or $8 / finished zipper and $4 for 77cm tape Lampo Superlampo Mustard Yellow tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 6 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Copper Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 3 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Dark Brown tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 1 qty plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Blue tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Superlampo Burnt Orange tape with T5 gold teeth and pulls finished zippers (120 cm long) - 2 qty. Plus 4 end stops & 7 top stops: $16 for all or $8 / each Lampo Light Gold T5 zipper pulls - 10 qty: $5 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Gold T5 zipper pulls - 16 qty: $8 for all or $0.50 / each Lampo Light Gold End stops - 14 qty: or $0.04/each

Hello all, I have been looking at post bed machines for sewing shoe uppers and boots and was wondering if there are any products available for converting a post bed machine to a flatbed for doing boot tops also. Do any companies already make something like this, or does anyone have experience or photos/diagrams they'd be willing to share here of table converters they have made? Thanks -Also I am pretty decided on the Cobra 5110 for the machine I want, http://www.leatherma...log.php?item=25 -Cobra has a "work platform" for their class 3 and 4 machines. This is pretty much the idea I'm going for, but I want it on a post bed rather than then cylinder arm. http://www.leatherma...log.php?item=44

I wanted to re-mount my Consew 226 walking foot sewing machine in a better table, and I had access to a replacement top. The new top didn’t have the required recess to mount the head unit, so I needed to rout one out. I started with a full-sized template of the shape I needed. Building the Template The corner diameter of the template needed to be 1-3/8”, and since I didn’t have a router bit that large, I used a Forstner bit to cut the holes. The template is made from 1/2" MDF. Then I completed the opening of the template with a router and spiral bit. A clamp-on straightedge guides the router in a straight path. Next I made removable corner inserts for the template. I’ll explain the reasoning for these little triangular pieces in a minute. They are easily made my marking the curve on some scrap, and sanding to the line. Then I cut them loose at the miter saw. These small pieces were 1-1/4” on the smaller sides, and 1-3/4” on the hypotenuse. Milling the Main Opening Then I used the template to pencil the shape of the opening on the sewing table top, and roughed it out with a jigsaw. At this point I was ready to clamp the full-sized template to the table top. The corner blocks were carpet taped in place, and I routed the opening flush with the template using a 2” long bearing-guided template bit (rout clockwise when inside a frame). Here you can see how the corner blocks protect the corners, which will eventually support the weight of the sewing machine head. Routing the Ledge Next I switched to a 3/4” long bearing-guided template bit and removed the corner blocks. Then I was able to follow the template’s radiused corners to mill a small ledge. This cut was 5/8” deep, which allows 3/8” for the lip of the sewing machine, and 1/4” for the rubber bumpers that I’ll install later. The 226 is a top loader, so I am shooting for a flush fit here. If you have a side loader like the 206rb, you might want to make the ledge slightly shallower so the bobbin access plate clears the table. Bumpers and Hinges The rubber bumpers are just some rubber mat that you can buy in bulk at the hardware store. They are tacked in place, one at each corner. Then I drilled holes in a scrap of MDF with a 1-1/2” Forstner bit. I then used that as a template to rout holes for the hinges. I could have simply used the Forstner bit to drill out the hinges, but I find the router cuts to a more consistent depth. Then excavate a little spot for the hinge mechanism. This is easily accomplished with a trim router and 1/4” spiral bit. Final Fitting The fit looks good, and the router bits cut the laminate cleanly. It took me most of a Saturday to accomplish, but it sure looks nicer than the old table. If anyone is contemplating a sewing machine table build, I found this full-sized template method with corner blocks worked quite well. I'll hang on to the template, and if I need to do it again it'll be a snap.

Hello. Recently pulled out my greatgrand mother singer 29-4 with my son-in-law that wants to start learning leather and sewing. The old 29-4 had been sitting for so long I forgot the table is gone. Does any one know where might locate a table assemble for the 29-4. Thanks for your input.

This is not my idea, I saw this specific implementation on Donna Nobilo's machine. It is very similar to the way flatbed tables attach to Pearson No.6 machines, and similar to the way flatbeds attach to 29k patchers. Donna runs Ethos Leather in New Zealand and is a member on these forums. It is so much better than the (IMO ridiculous) way the tables come from the Chinese factories with four bolts at the back of the flatbed to attach it to the machine table I don't know why they don't ship the tables built like this already. It takes less than a minute to attach, and requires only two bolts. It's pretty stable with just one but it is slightly more secure with two. You need two M8 machine screws. I'm using cap head allen screws and an M5 allen key. If you used an M8 wing screw that would make the lower attachment easier, I just don't happen to have one. The m8 screws don't appear to be a perfect match for the threads tapped into the machine head, but they do work. I don't know what the thread standard in the holes in the machine is, but at least some of the other bolts in 441s are metric as well. The table attaches using brackets made of bent aluminium strip. This stuff is 50mm wide and is a standard stock item at big box hardware stores. The rear strap of the bracket sits across the rectangular cutout in the arm The front strap of the bracket wraps under the shuttle race Add the machine screws and you're done This cost me less than $10 to do, and about half an hour to make. The only vaguely difficult bit was measuring up the bends. Here's a video showing how easily it goes on and off. https://youtu.be/u8zhPB5c5iA

Decided to change some things up here and getting rid of a few machines. With these 3 machine you can cover all of your sewing needs. First up is a Cobra class 3 that includes a few pounds of thread, some needles and the heavy duty roller edge guide. Comes on the standard table with servo motor. Asking $1600 for it. Next up is a Highlead 618 walking foot machine. Will include several packs of needles, some 1/2 pound spools of thread, lots of bobbins and several feet. Have a extra bobbin casing and extra set of feed dogs. Machine is mounted on a table with servo motor and thread rack. Asking $875 for it. Last is a Singer 31-19. It is mounted is a long table with servo motor. Comes with a ton of needles and silicone pots. Asking $200 for it. All machines are located in Southern Indiana. Willing to drive a few hours to deliver for a slight fee to cover gas. Otherwise these are for pickup only. Shipped only if you arrange for packing, pickup and shipping.