JLSleather

NEver had glue "bleed through" leather. 🤔 But if it's on the surface, you can try to remove it by lightly dragging an art gum eraser to try to lift it off. It will come off the grain side, just have to be careful not to mar the surface. TO BE CLEAR, i'm not talking about RUBBING as in like youre "erasing" it... just trying to LIFT the glue from the leather, not embed it.

to make good leather goods, you need good leather. that's the first and the last of that. For holsters specifically, I would recommend a good utility knife, and something to cut curves (I use x-acto, works great). round punches - they're great for PUNCHING out tight curves instead of trying to cut them. GOOD quality awl and thread. a wooden or acrylic "slicker" for finishing edges. and of course dyes and applicators to suit your preference. That will get you started, and you can swap/change as you grow to suit your own style. To be clear, GOOD leather. Plus, one more thing... GOOD leather.

kydex will work also

UNLIKELY that your machine sews back into the same holes as it made forward. More reliable... when you get to the end, TURN THE PROJECT AROUND and sew a few holes back in FORWARD.

you'll want to spread the difference over 3 er 4 stitches, so you don' t have 1 or 2 real short, very obvious ones. It's worse at a corner. Generally, for soemthing like what you have in the pic, I would mark with an overstitch wheel starting from the point working backwards, so that the TURN comes out correct. You can "fudge' a few stitches before getting to the corner, and you'l be fine.

You CAN, but the spring makes it nicer to use. Gives the thing something firm to push on. A guy could use an additional piece of cowhide in the shape of the metal too. And put on the outside, wouldnt' really need to be lined. I LIKE 'em lined, because i can recess the snap into the lining, helping it clear the pistol better.

I generally and usually and normally and routinely and consistently (and prolly some other ly's) advise NOT to use ant-streak on leather. But on "figure carving" I DEFINITELY WARN against it. Just don't belong on 'figures' at all. That said, I think you could benefit greatly from seeing Stohlman's book on figure carving, specifically look at 'matting" and double beveling. Still, your knife cuts look good n smooth Maybe this helps? Figures here also from "craftaid" templates.

yeah, prolly work there, long as the land is wide enough. Mostly on chrome-tanned bags, I would think. Assuming we're talking about the same type of bag, a 90° on a veg-tanned edge would likely cause a "booger" (wrinkle) I would find unacceptable. Still, it may be of use for like gussets on notebooks/binders?

One is a six, the other seem more like half a dozen. I've had customers ask, and I tell 'em by the time either wears out, send it back and I'll replace the stitchin' in it - you just pay the shippin'. They DO sew a bit different, barely, if I'm tellin' the story. EITHER is fine - but you might notice when switching from one to the other you might adjust the tension just a tad, even with the same weight of thread. Again, I have and use both, so ... Originally, I used nylon for no other reason than that's what I had on hand. I "tried" poly thread because it was available in a color I wanted and the nylon was not, at least with my regular supply stores. The difference in use is minimal... almost none .. and I dont know there's much difference in the wear of it either. Somebody said that somebody said poly might be a bit more UV-resistant... but that same 'they' also tell you that tooled leather needs ant-streak and theyz WMD in Iraq ...

I didn't find I use the "holster" or "stirrup" plates nearly as much as I thought I would. With just a little thought, the standard plate does prett much all of that. I suppose if you were trying to sew next to a metal clip....

Correct. I've got a few decent pieces from there, but they were the exception. I would call and complain, they would apologize for the "mistake", send me a different piece. But I was spending SO much time on the phone with them, it just became not worth it. They didn't seem to understand that I KNOW what H.O. A and B grade looks like - usually that's what I would order and use SLC for the ocassional odd weight. Like as in I don't use a lot of 5/6, so instead of buying multiple sides from H.O., I would order 7/8 at H.O. and use SLC for the ocassional 5/6 or 4/5. I got one side of 5/6 I could stretch a 1.5" wide strap by hand. ANYWAY.... Wickett/Craig has good leather, I've made a lot of holsters from their skirting leathers. That in mind, I have had a few issues with W/C as well, though not nearly as often. More than once I called to remind them that I don't mind PAYING premium as long as I'm GETTING premium. If you want to go with H.O. but don't want to buy minimum 10 sides, I always recommend Goliger Leather. It's a bit higher cost than some places, but they have ALWAYS sent me great leather. NEVER ONCE a piece I wasn't happy with. http://www.goligerleather.us/

back to the original point, I dont do a LOT of basket stamp, but when I do, I leave the back side of the holster (wearer side) SMOOTH, UNSTAMPED. Nothing to do with lazy - I want a smooth surface to glue down the belt loop to.

yup. LL is a diamond hole. I don't much like the "D" of "S" needles, as they make a hole I think is not as strong in teh direction of sewing, and I don't like the way it leaves "space" between stitches. EDIT TO ADD: I like a #24 needle, 277 thread on the "top" and 207 on the bottom MOST of the time (I have been known to sew 207/207). The pics above were #24 needles. yes, you certainly are. I found the service at LMC more hype than reality. I remember a post about it disappearing, prompting me to ask if advertisers here can get that done for them. Meh - perhaps it's better now, it's been a good while since I dealt with them.

exactly what i use - LL point, #24 pics show close up of the difference in a couple styles. the LL and LR points are the SAME needle size, same thread size, and same stitch length. The LR is kinda lacy and girlie, doesn't pull as deep, and makes the stitch LOOK longer (it isnt) teh LL pulls in deep, results in a very straight and tight stitch, with a hole geometry unlikey to tear.

Easy enough to put the spring steel between the outer leather and the liner - since this was all black it didnt' really matter one way or other, so this is done to show the construction.