Wizcrafts

I've sewn end caps on dice cups using a shoe patcher. They usually allow you to get close to 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge to the needle. There is no need for an edge guide as long as your edge is even (e.g., sanded and slicked outer edge). The nose of the cylinder arm will stop the shaped item from going any farther in. I recommend a large bobbin model so you can use #138 or #207 thread, depending on the total thickness to be sewn. Most shoe patchers can sew between 1/4 and 5/16 inch compressed leather.

My thoughts regarding sewing vinyl, Sunbrella and canvas are walking foot or bust. If you are serious about sewing these cloths, get a walking foot machine. A Consew 206RB-5 is a fine compound feed machine with a rotary switch for stitch length and a push down reverse lever. And, it doesn't suffer from the floating stitch lever syndrome like the LU-563 did.

My first ULS had every conceivable foot, including one with a blade on the bottom front. It cut a channel in front of the awl and the stitches were perfectly placed in it and were concealed. My favorite feet were stepping feet, but only on straightaways.

The Union Lockstitch machines were first unleashed upon the Earth around 1898, plus or minus a few years. The oldest one I owned was from 1910. These beasts weigh 400 pounds on a table and with a continuous run motor. The head alone weighs 250 pounds. The feed is via the needle. The awl comes down and pokes a hole that is 1 size larger than the needle. The needle comes up into the poked hole and the presser foot lifts. As the foot lifts the needle advances the leather. At the end of its travel a looper feeds the thread into a barb in the top of the needle. The needle pulls the thread down, then the hook lifts it off the barb and takes it around the bobbin. The default setup allows for constant stitching at 3/4 inch. It can tension any thread size as long as you have the proper needle and awl sizes. The bobbins are about 2.5 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch wide at the center. There are all mAnner of presser feet and throat plates available for the ULS. The maximum speed of the machine is 800 stitches per minute, or 15 per second. Running flat out on a long harness tug will shake the building. The moving parts slap and bang as you sew. This is not a quiet machine, nor one for a timid or inexperienced sewer. Simply moving it across the floor can throw it out of adjustment if everything isn't tightened down properly. A properly adjusted ULS machine sews the tightest stitch of any harness stitcher. The maximum stitch length is 4 to the inch. The bottom appearance is very close to the top, but not exactly the same. The machines can sew through plywood. They are not much good on anything woven, like webbing and have a problem sewing Biothane straps because the holes tend to heal as the awl comes up. I have owned two and am currently involved in fine tuning one for a new friend in Michigan.

That is basically correct, with one possible exception. When sewing #138 thread in hard leather (e.g., two layers of finished veg-tan), I use a #23 needle to poke a larger hole. This will allow the lockstitch knots to be pulled up with less stress on the take-up lever and cranks.

The O.P. hasn't included his location in his member profile. So, I looked up his geo-location details and found that is in Estonia. I doubt that he will be contacting Weaver Leather. @mihkel Please add your location to your profile so people will know that you are in northern Europe, not the USA or Australia.

Parts are definitely more available and cheaper for the Singer. I have a 211G156 and it is a capable upholstery machine.

Is there any chance you can take a larger picture?

What make and model machine did you buy? That detail will allow us to read the machine's specs. When sewing leather that is between 6oz and 9oz combined, #92 bonded thread is 50% stronger. It requires a #19 or #20 leather point needle.This is beyond what your plastic body domestic sewing machine can handle without great difficulty. Also, I don't think you will have an easy time finding a #19 or 20 needle in the domestic system HAx1. The walking foot attachments you are referring to are passive follow feet. They don't climb up and down layers and don't assist with the feed motion. They are made for quilters. A real walking foot machine, like the Consew P1206RB can sew up to 3/8 inch with up to #138 thread, using System 135x16 leather point needles in sizes up to #23. It has triple, or compound feed, ensuring that the layers stay aligned and new layers don't cause the feed to balk (if the lift is adjusted high enough to clear the new height). I have a YouTube video showing a real walking foot machine in action.

You need to start a new topic concerning your problem. This is an old topic. I am creating a new topic for you...

Both brands have excellent dealer support. The machines are setup and sewn off before being shipped. You won't go wrong with either machine.

Chinese improvements. Mao's Revenge!

This Pfaff 1245/1246 manual includes mechanics' adjustments after general setup.

The pod motors show up now and then on ebay. If you are lucky enough to find one, and it works, invest in the special motor brush lube injectors sold on ebay. NEVER put oil into the tiny lube holes or the motor will be ruined! Having owned and sold a few 15-91 machines I can say that they are not good leather sewing machines. They are best used to sew cloth.

Actually, the specs call for a maximum foot lift of 1.25 inches. Your machine is out of adjustment if you can't lift the feet over an inch. Make sure that the foot lifter pedal chain has a minimum amount of slack and can travel from fully up to fully down.

I also have a walking foot post machine and it helps feed difficult leathers and ball caps. I primarily use it to sew patches onto hats and biker vests. It feeds much better than my top feed only patcher and has a bigger bobbin. If you "need" a post machine a walking foot is a positive a feed as you can get.

This machine is a post bed compound feed walking foot machine. It doesn't lend itself to becoming a roller foot machine. If you believe you will be better served by a roller foot machine, try negotiating a trade.

If it is a GA5-1 type it is a clone of a Singer 45k cylinder arm machine. These are strictly bottom feed, with aggressive teeth, with either a fixed flat foot or a roller foot. They max out at 7/16 inch. They are NOT 441 clones. Those are triple/compound feed walking foot machines.

A number 25 needle pokes a hole suitable for #277 bonded thread on both sides. A #24 needle is best used with #207 thread and a #23 for #138 thread (top and bobbin). If you use an oversize needle the hole will have too much clearance and the thread knots can be hard to position. Knot position should be adjusted by means of the tension sprinbgs for the top and bobbin threads. Knots along the bottom indicate way too much bobbin tension or little to no top tension. This begs the question: is the top thread actually laying well within the top disks and then around the check spring with a click as you pulled it around the disks?

System 135×5 is generally used in single needle lockstitch industrial sewing machines. It is also known as 134R, 135×7, 135×25, 1901, DPx5, and DPx7. This system is shorter than walking foot System 135x16 and 135x17. A machine using System 135x5 needles will have a shorter throw and won't accommodate the thickness that System 135x16 are capable of. If the 111w153 sews with System 134/135x5 needles and you are okay with its reduced thickness, stay with that system. Otherwise, you would have to raise the needle bar for the longer walking foot needles and make sure the hook arrives above the eye on the upstroke.

I have hidden the reply with the link to the domestic sewing machines because it was a spam post by an affiliate marketer and was also not relevant to industrial leather sewing machines.

Keep in mind that without a brake the motor could continue to run on if it was spinning fast.

This is pretty much how it is. You may be able to get some free movement by removing the brake pad from the motor, if it is a servo. Clutch motors have a free play adjuster bolt on the right side, in front of the output shaft.

You are going to have to replace the feed motion cam that moves the foot. It is inside the ring on the bottom of the revolving head. This is an involved process with several parts requiring removal, including the bolt on head holding the revolving bushing and needlebar.

I would like to know how much the built-in motor, push button micro-switches, servos and motherboard cost to replace when they fail? How long is the warranty on those parts?