dirtclod

Nice job !!

The reason could be as simple as their not able to be backed to, every body may have different set up on their truck some have a longer boom on the hoist, a bigger wench, more cable, lazy driver, down in a sinkhole or gully, lift gates. Years ago i worked in a butcher shop. the truck they had a lift gate and boom with a wench and they had dead cows in it sometimes. I talked the driver a couple of times what they did with everthing, he said they rendered most of the animal down for all types of things that were and are used in a types of everyday things. Just like limestone or marble i can't remember which but it's crushed super fine and put on the outside of chewing gum to keep it from sticking togeather But very little if any part of the animal goes to waste. It could be a 100 different reasons that they need to drag it to get to and in the truck.

Holster's like that are a pain to make. Most of the ones i have made, i did like Al Sthloman's rife scabbard with a scope. You can get a bit of taper on the front of the scope instead of the part covering the scope being a seperate piece.

You might try some acetone. If you try make sure your outside because it has a power strong smell and it and the fumes will burn.

Their are lots of free resizing programs for your pictures if you your camera didn't come with software for that. Crop the picture first and resize.

I have used a flexable stick looking piece ( i can't remember what it's called but i think it came from a dress material place or hobby shop ) anyway you can form it on the horse and it will hold the shape to make curves on a breast strap and transfur that to your pattern. Then you can straighten it back out. The measurments i use to make a regular brow band head stall are 30 inches for the crown " top piece", 23 inches start for the brow band, 15 inches start for the cheeks, and 43 inches for the throat latch. That will fit most horses and you could make one with lots of holes for a custom fit. Don't belive most people when they say they have a horse that needs a extra large headstall unless it's a draft horse because in my experinse they don't what their talking about.

I wouldn't use anything thinner than 8 or 9 ounce. Mine are made from skirting leather.

Most of my things that are mailed, i wrap in a paper towel then bubble wrap. Add newspaper if needed to keep thing from flopping around. As far as i know their never have been any problems with paper towels sticking to finish. I use resoline for my finish.

Lobo i think it was said that he used Johnson paste wax on a plastic bag, then put the gun in the bag and then stuck it in holster and left it for a day or two and that made the guns fit when they were to tight. Here's a link to that thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28395

I just looked at you new site. The logo i really like. It did take a little bit of time to load up the first page and i have DSL after that they did load quicker. I didn't care for having to scroll to read what was wrote on the page, or the pictures going across the page. It was just by chance that i found that they did move. Personally i think you should have a base price for your items and then go from there as far as add on's and the prices. JMO and it aint worth much.

I put more compound on my strop when it gets dirty. Right now i am trying the cardboard glued to a piece of wood and it works fine. For me i found that it easier to get the compound ruibbed into the strop if i heat it a little with a hair dryer then rub on espically with the white and green compound.

I've used resolin for years and never had it crack no matter if i thinned or not.How are you putting it on ? I use a sponge that i squeese out some before i put it on.

Welcome aboard!! I looked at your picture and your things look nice. One question though what is the first piece ? The hat is covering it up.

I learned something new today and that's a good thing.

I use liquid saddle soap when their stuck like that. Spray it under the seat both sides of the leathers and pull the skirt down as much as you can spray both sides of the leathers. Let it set for a minute and pull. Sometimes you need another person to hold the saddle while you pull. That has worked me just about evertime.

I don't log out except when i have reboot.

Every time i have had a Private Message their was a little green dot lite up by my name.

Personally i don't understand all of your Rants. It's there if you want to buy it or not to buy it. It wasn't like you have to buy it. Well dragging one to be loaded in the truck is the only way i see to get it in the truck even if you were able to back up to it. Yes their probley will be some damage to the hide. Nobody i have ever met has been strong enough to lift full grown cow or steer in the truck and i have worked with some mighty strong people in my time. But the whole ideal of of it, if i understand it right was to be able to sell a product made from a cow that died from natural causes not one one that was killed for food. It was tanned for people that don't eat meat or want something that was made from a animal that was killed for food. Pretty simple i think. And no i didn't buy any. As far as i know all of my customers are like me meat eaters but one.

I use a light coat of Olive Oil let that dry then put Febings Resolene for the finish.

Sense your just trying it out. You might try getting the leather damp and hit / tap it with a smooth faced hammer and see if that helps on it laying the way you want. Might work and it might not.

Your going to have some happy folks when they open their presents.

Nice collar Tom. Alex must be a big dog.

Nice picture.

Awl's i don't know. But bevelers i would get a size 2 and 3. they should cover just about anything you want to do.

I haven't seen either one. But i doubt you will wear out a blade by sharpening it in your life time, unless you really screw one up sharping it.You are talking about a splitter that screws onto your table right ?