JLSleather

Glad I could be of use for once, Joel. Yer FUNNY

Store it flat... it will eventualy stay that way. Cut it in 12" or 18" or whatever size, and stack the pieces flat. Maybe put a piece of something on top (posterboard? or whatever you have). I put some in the center desk drawer (wide and flat) and now it doesn't curl. Don't take long, but I just leave it in the bottom of the drawer all the time.

Thanks. Always looking for ways to speed that up... sometimes I know what I want, but takes longer than I like getting it on the paper! Avenger style holster and single mag pouch coming for the SW shield in the next couple of days!

IF I understood your measurements - then that G19/23 mag pattern will work. Everything the same, except kick the vertical stitch lines out 1/4" (each). If it was me, I'd prolly take 2 scraps big enough to go outside the stitch lines, stitch 'em together, and try it. You'll be close, and you'lll be able to quickly see what adjustments to make .. if any.

I think the same countour from the G19/23 mag carrier pattern on the site should be fine. Double stack .40's, and the 45's (for some reason) tend to be more rounded in the nose, so likely aint that much diffference. I had just enough "spare" time lately to answer a question where i can, but not enough to get new designs out (though I did make a new "model" G19/23 avenger style rig that isn't uploaded as yet). I'd tell ya give me a call, 'cept I kaint find my phone! Maybe in the clothes dryer??? Send me a pm or an email with the dimensions of yer mag and I can tell you pretty quick.

Did you try to make the mag carrier too? Still good practice, don't use up much leather, and more important you can see if it prints correctly (might show you the setting that's causing you trouble).

You got a WHAT?

That's exactly what I meant by "training wheels". You'd be able to see the marks easier than judge distance through a hole. And while that guy may be a real nice fella, I just can't see 15 minutes of video to tell me what I said in 4 sentences

Combinations of graph paper and whatever else i can work in Sometimes adobe, sometimes microsoft, etc. I downloaded inkscape (due to multiple mentions here) but haven't installed it yet. Not looking forward to learning new software from scratch, but don't like the idea of adobe going to subscriptions, either. They're saved with PrimoPDF, which seems to work okay(ish), but I think I'm going back to Acrobat Pro.

Learning is what those files are about, so that's good! To get the correct scale, you may have settings at your printer AND in the program you use to open the file (usually Acrobat).

Aww, shucks, Mister ... Holster looks good, but next time we want bigger pics

I take it you're referring to the projects you sometimes see -- with a little 'booger' stitch at the end cuz they dun run outta room. Looks like... well - it aint good If you don't have clear visibility under the foot to place your stitches, try marking the training wheels! Don't take offense at the term.. I sometimes still do it here n there. Make a stitch line with a compass, groover, creaser, whatever. Then mark a few stitches back from your turn with an overstitch wheel. Better yet, use a compass or dividers. That way you can stitch a few stitches in a piece of scrap, and set your divider spacing to those stitches, and the spacing will match what your machine wants to do and the look you want.

Lines lookin' straight, and the stitchin' looks good. I even like the inlay, though ostrich aint m' favrite Not sure why, but your stitch line looks quite a ways from the trigger guard. Did you have some stretch in there? Your leather should form a bit of a corner under the turns, a bit like this.. If it doesn't, it's likely due to leather stretch, or stitching too far outside one or more lines, or using leather notably thinner than suggested.

I like the boys at duncan's. They aren't saving you big bucks - cept maybe that dummy mags are $15 - but the service always been great. duncansoutdoor.com

I use more 7/8 than anything else. But adding two layers that add up to 8 oz is fine. May be a little more stitching / thinking involved, but that works. That would need to be a pretty big gun to cause me to use 11 or 12 oz leather.

Yeah, thickness is an issue - mostly for cosmetics. A 3/8" thick project with a "skinny" stitch line just doesn't look right. But never less than 1/8"

The handwheel will be a bit hard to turn, as you said. Built in brakes... keeps it from running on when you lift your foot, basically. As for the shredding, you do know there are different styles of needles? Around here, folks tend to talk of a size - say like #22 - as if that were the end of the conversation. But a #22 can come in a wide range of needle point geometry and hole size and shape. The next #22 may not work the same as this #22. I don't have the consew any more, but I used a #18 for #69 thread, a #22 for 138, and a #23 for #207 thread. You might consider also picking up some spare bobbin cases for that thing. They're cheap (like $5-ish) and makes it really handy to swap thread size. Keep one or two - I'm talking about the bobbin CASE, not the bobbin - for #69 thread. Keep others for #138 thread, or #42, or whatever you're using. This avoids changing the tension spring for different sizes. Once you set it, next time you want to use #138, just put a bobbin in your "138 case", and go....

Thanks fer tha hollah I gotta say, though, that looks purdy good fer a "fail" !#!#@!

I'll send you a message (red number top your screen).

That's a broad question. Gonna depend on the pockets you want to use. A belt needs to fit the waist, and a holster needs to fit the gun, but wallets can be any size / shape you care to make. I sometimes make one that folds vertically - some might call it a 'roper' (whatever that is). 7 1/2" wide x 7 1/4" high, then pockets 3 1/4" wide, leaving room for cash/cards/stuff, and leaving "about" 1" between the pockets for the fold.

Just a "dimple" with a stylus, or the point end of a modeling tool. Close enough to the edge so that the edger removes it. Don't mark on the grain side of the leather with a pen! You can mark the EDGE of the leather with a pen if the holster is dark, but basically that black ink mark is just so you can SEE it in the pictures. Ink might penetrate too deep to remove by sanding, and a marker is even worse. Course, if the holster is all black, mark it how you like

Yeah, my first one was NOT funny. SO not funny, I pitched it before anyone saw me with it Still, git in there 'n' practice - that's how it's learned. My Mom has never ruined a holster. Know why? CUZ SHE DONT MAKE HOLSTERS!!! Guy asked me a while back, how long before you stopped makin' mistakes. Told him "I'll let you know".

How do blue guns ordered from NY, shipped to IA, somehow end up in CA?

Yep, still sitting here in a sealed box. Looks like post office just a tad cheaper than UPS. Says $14 and change, but I think it would fit in a med. priority box for $12. Since it aint worth $2 for me to unpack and repack, I'll just eat the couple $ So, call it $50 total and I'll ship it to Houston