JLSleather

Video too close and too quick for me. And you didn't say the model. That thing got a safety clutch?

Seems ta clamp jaw to jaw. How does it do when you got something 1" thick in there?

No takers?? Might try askin about a 629, or even just any N-frame smith

I use a scratch awl mostly... but sometimes use a pen if I'm gonna take off the edge with a edger anyway

That's gonna depend on how it was adjusted (or not adjusted). You gonna have to find out where YOURS is set up. Then, maybe a fine-tip marker on the metal marking that spot? You'll get LOTS of pretty speeches about backstitching in the same holes, from a LOT of different places. I'm not sure why everyone tries so adamantly to avoid the question - other than they can't answer it. Truth is, that's been asked for years, INCLUDING on this site (do a search, you'll get an idea of how long this has been NOT answered). Sorry, I know this doesn't help your immediate question. Just trying to save you a LOT of time searching, since some of us have already been there

It doesn't "matter" which side it's cut from if the knife is vertical. Even when die cut, the burr side and break side will be within thousandths of an inch. But I cut grain side up, since I want to see the leather I'm cutting. Also, many of my patterns are "innies" instead of "outties".

Never did bother with those shop presses, since I've never needed to press a new bushing into my leather projects. But, got a coupon email from harbor freight - for the 20-ton model for $150. And the wench going within a couple miles of the store anyway, so might as well tell the boys to load one while she's in the neighborhood. Problem solved. Now, to figure out what I'd do with it if it was here ...

You post it twice You post it twice

That batch is gone, fellas. I'll do some more diggin later this afternoon.

There's no "ordering" ta do, just a clean up where i thought I could see my space and a fella could git decent leather without a mortgage There is one fella spoke up earlier might want some, let's give 'im a chance to decide if he wants it

I admit it... my blood pressure jumps a few points any time I hear "high" and "holster" in the same breath. But that does look like it "sucks in" purdy good. Only thing, you might want to split the back when using a thumb break strap. Whole point is, the snap should break free and out the way smoothly. With yours, that's a lot of material to push out the way, particularly if there's shirt or belly up agin the back of the holster Here's what I mean.... Hopefullly that makes sense. By cutting out that slot, now your thumb only has to move that tab, not the whole back of the holster. Make the snap pop much easier.

That photographs well. Is that tool chest drawer liner, maybe?

Enough responses to this to post pics under here. There's actually a bit more than this, but this will give a fella the main idea. Tossin' in some 3/4 oz to line straps with, and there'll be a bit o W/C when I trim a couple hides, which goes if a guy kin use it. Good lookin' leather front and back. Oh -- tha's a 6' ruler and a 24" square ... so ... I flipped 'em over and wrote the length on some ...

I like it, but then I"m a fisherman and I admit I had to google "spotted sea trout". That looks a LOT like what a northern boy call a WALLEYE Anyway, nice work.. look forward ta seein' the rest o' the set!

Cleaning up time around here again. One day, I'll be smarter, and I'll do it BEFORE tax time inventory! Anyway, I have some 1 1/2" wide strips of Hermann Oak tooling leather in 6/7 and 7/8 oz, along with some other irregular pieces that should get used. The belt strips are the same leather I use for the belts on the etsy site (link below), which are carved and then lined with either 2/3 or 3/4 oz lining. I see that SLC sells strips (don't know if they're even H.0.) and the "wholesale" price is $15. This seems extreme to me, since I can buy B-grade backs (no belly leather) and cut my own for more like $10. Any interest, lemme know what you need and how long - I think most of these strips wil be in the 45-55" range. I do want to clean out around here, but largely the idea is to boost the 'new guy', so how 'bout we give the newcomer a shot at these. Buy a few, and I'll 'toss in' some 3/4 to line 'em with Oh, I like paypal - but I don't care for ebay, so ....

Me, too, Red. So, if you wanna unbuckle yer britches, you have to set the firearm down first ... ?

Or a girl? Or the camera was upside down? Is it just me, or is the stitch length longer on the keepers than on the belt? Which is okay, just wondering if there's a reason for that.

'Preciate ya fellas.. checked all the above Cobra 4 machine. I took the needle out, took the hook/shuttle assembly out to clear any debris (like maybe I'll find the tip of a needle down there?), brushed the tip of the hook with some 600 grit wet, cleaned everything back as far as the feed dog, oiled until my shoe was full (actually, thought i might flush something too small to see). Ran the machine a bit without the plate or a needle, watched the oil coat the race. Nothing 'crashing', but I'm getting the occasional skipped stitch (which never happened before today). Guess I'll check it again in the morning. After over an hour in there, I can say that it is NOT worse than it was!

Anybody know what causes this cobra to knock the end of the needle? Bends outward -- ONLY in reverse. And I don't mean "flex" the needle, I mean there's a crisp sound, and then the needle is destroyed. No detectable damage on the shuttle assembly.

Guessin' Bob doan mind if'n I make this a bit easier to save. TN411.pdf

So, do you actually MAKE something, or just add a mark-up to what someone else did? Confusing ....

Where is the video? I think most of those you see on here were uploaded first to u-tub, then linked here.

Sent

Tough to tell from your picture... is that a model 19, or the 27?

Have to answer that question with a question. What is it you want to sew? What do you mean by "best"? Machine performance regardless of price? Best combination of function and price?