JLSleather

Best #1 step for 'advertising', check what you can do with that web site. First page takes WAY too long to load - a lot of people won't wait on it .. off to something else. I didn't check the fakebook thing because, well, because I wouldn't. ...

That is correct. The 17 is not quite 1/2" longer than the 19. The 19 is also shorter in the grip, but that likely has no bearing on your holster. You could, for example, make a holster that fits the 19, with the muzzle set back about 1/4" inside the end. You could then take out the 19, put in the 17, and it will fit the SAME way, but will protrude a bit less than 1/4". SAME fit. OH - Jason threw a lot of info in a short time, so I'll just add that (in case you OR the next guy didn't know) the XD's are Springfield and the M&P's are Smith/Wesson. Good to get all the information you can from the customer. I can't count the number of times I've talked to "holster makers" who want to make a rig for their '1911'. That covers 50 different models, so a holster "for a 1911" means basically nuthin'. It's like going to the parts store and asking for a new starter for your Chevy - doesn't mean much to them, either.

Yes. The exterior dimensions are the same. These are different caliber (9mm, .40, and .357 in order) so they have different LOADED weight (and mag capacity) but the holster is the same. Incidentally, the Glock 17, 22, and 31 will snap into that same holster. On these models, the barrel end is about 1/2" longer (well, actually closer to 15/32"), and the butt end is a bit different, but between is the SAME. In other words, if you had a holster that fit the glock 19 flush with the end of the barrel, then teh 17 would have the same fit, but protrude a little less than half an inch out the end (which in some cases is likely just fine).

This was funny.. probably because it's accurate Many of these things are simply personal preference. Here's my 'take', for what it's worth... I don't use RJF leather (once, but never again). Enough said. The thread you selected is one notch heavier than I like. As a rule, for a holster / belt combo, why not let the thread match on both. And, I don't use 7 holes (a fella needing that much adjustment must have medical issues - and if you did use it all the resulting 'tag end' would look ridiculous). STILL, you got 13 oz of leather there, which - if good leather is used - is certainly heavy enough. Overall, you have a decent looking belt there. I don't have anything in that color for comparison - sometimes it's nice to see what others have done, and a guy can decide if he likes the look without investing the time and money to find he didn't prefer that

Red -- Tandy now selling by the PIECE, not by the foot. The RM sides are generally 25 feet, +- 2, making it about $8/ft with the 'elite' pricing ($207/side). HO will depend on where you get it. SLC is $9.49/ft for [what they call] "B" grade. Goliger charging $9.12/ft, but it's "A" grade HO. And you can call the tannery, if you have the room to store 20 sides, and get it for a bit under $8/ft.

I think that's purdy standard for revolvers with substantial barrel length. Lower the loop, ya got a rig ridin too high. What you have there keeps the grip about belt height. You could angle it a bit, dependin' on customer comfort, but otherwise you got it.

i kaint even decide on the best guitar player for pink floyd!

Yeah SLC.. The leather isn't better than anywhere else, but they DO cut it (at a cost). I haven't used the calf, but i see they do also sell 2/3 oz veg that comeis in 9-10 foot skins (thus, you skip the cutting fee).

This should put you close. Thanks, Bob. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Couple points here... 1.) Skip the cheap guages -- spend $8-10 on a caliper. Nothin fancy -- dont have to say starrett or sharpe. Use it to measure thickness, but can also guage holes, distances, etc. Simple, and available nearly anywhere. 2.) At least aaround here, the royal meadow at tandy is markedly better than the "HO" that springfield sells. I've ordered both repeatedly, and I actually prefer the royal meadow for tooling AND for color. And the back side is nice too (the leather AND the sales girl)

Not sure where you're having the issue. Flip the belt, so the buckle end is on the right. Figure where the holes go and the fold. Place the buckle at the fold line. Measure from the middle of the buckle, 1/2 of the waist size, and mark for the MIDDLE of the name. Center the name on your mark. No? Yes?

Improvement is always good, and who doesn't like to feel good about their work. Just keep in mind because someone says Hermann Oak does not make it good leather. HO site lists 4 'grades' of leather, and I have purchased HO so rough I immediately sent it back. And, while I'm not a tandy 'fan', I can say that i still use their royal meadow sides (in the 3/4) - carves and colors very well.

Sewing is sewing... not sure there is a "best" way. Just be sure to take that stupid cardboard stiffener out of the thing. Those do a nice job of keeping it flat in shipping. Then you get rid of it.

Any machine shop worth beans should be able to make you one in half an hour. Pay a little extra to have it made in 4140 steel and you'll have it for life.

Is that a 17? I take it you dont have one of those, whre you could just use it yerself...

As a rule, crossing the street takes longer than NOT crossing the street, by an amount directly inversely proportional to the speed of the traveler.

Okay, but tha's not what your original post said now, is it? " leads or personal contacts to other skilled craftsman, whether they are in USA, UK, Japan or else where." No offense taken though, come ask again when you have "covered the basics of leather working to the point where I have "peaked" ". Then, why would I take offense, I'm not Japanese...

It sounds as if you are quite concerned with names. Or, do you really want to learn leathercraft? Stohlman was likely the most renowned leather artist. I don't know if he was THE best, but he likely was the most marketed - which is not the same thing. No offense intended to the Stohlmans, I still have and use some materials attributed to them. Their work was - and is - inspiring. But the fact is, you'll learn leather by studying and working with -- well -- leather. Regardless of who told you, or showed you. Mr. Stohlman at one time openly admitted that his early work 'left much to be desired'. A good place to start? Check the gallery for some beautiful work done by a fella name of Edwards. VERY nice, without the traditional BS marketing crap. Oh, if I was mistaken, and you actually prefer the mindless droning of marketing noise... if paying for yet another course or video or 'class' somehow elevates your self-image, then I appologize for the practical information. Do carry on

Smooth, finished look inside. Allows use of small pieces of lighter leathers. Entire holster is firmer (two light layers are stronger than one thick one, all else equal). Hardware used can be covered with the lining layer to avoid marring the gun finish (snaps, rivets, etc). Dust & dirt can be wiped out (usually).. no "sueded' side to trap crap.

Shiny Seriously, fit looks good on that rig, color is consistent, and I personally have always liked the contrasting stitching. Stay at it -- looks good!

Kaint tell.. is that a Walther? I aint much of a laced holster guy, I admit. Paranoia maybe, but I like the strength of the stitch. In your case, I might recommend a slightly smaller stitch length. You've taken the biggest step in figuring these things... the FIRST one! If you're sacrificing the holster to learning experience, then I might suggest that you wet the thing, and "bone" the leather under the trigger guard WITHOUT taking that apart. Then with a small ruler or scale you can see how much tighter the stitch line "could be" (in fact, you could let it dry that way and stitch again if you cared to). Couple issues you already mention you are aware of. Still, progress is good -- git it RIGHT, then you can git it purdy Oh, I'm with Rohn on the rivets.

THESE PEOPLE list 794 needles down to size 19.

I get both at thread exchange

That machine "supposedly" handle down to #69 thread, which would be like a 16 or 18 needle, yes? Realistically, if you have an Artisan that uses 16-24 needles, I'd just use that for such projects. Oh, and if you talk to Steve you might confirm with him, I think that 135x17 is a round point needle, and the diamond ("leather") counterpart is a 135x16 (same needle with a chisel point).

The little light, put up under the top of the casting so it shines on the work. Those little magnets fit the CORD, so you can route it up out of the way. The cord on that little thing is quite long, kinda handy for seeing back in those little corners to oil the machine. Oh, and the screws are to mount the switch to the underside of the table (or, you could use a twist tie and just bundle it to the power cord.