LNLeather

I could be wrong, but it seems like it might be easiest to glue the lining in before stitching the case ? I also think it would be a good idea to go lightly with the glue so it doesn't dry hard... or maybe just a bit around the edges... ? edit...... I was just looking around for more info on lining an eye glass case and found this info... by northmount (link)---> Eyeglass Case Lining-Necessary?, How To? "A lot of the scratches in plastic lenses are due to people using the same micro-fibre cloth forever without cleaning it. Anything that rubs against the lens needs be soft & clean." I might not have thought of this as I also have a residential and commercial cleaning business and I launder my cleaning cloths daily... so what I use on my glasses is always clean. After reading that other post I was thinking maybe it would be better to just lay the cloth inside the case so it can be removed and cleaned periodically? When I was a kid I had glasses with lenses that were made out of glass and they did not scratch easily. After 30+ years of wearing contacts, I just had to get glasses (about 3 months ago) and they have plastic lenses and scratch really easily. It will be interesting to hear what others might say about this topic. I'm also interested in making an eye glass case and would love to hear what others have to say that might have some experience with linings.

SIMPLE, EASY TO MAKE STITCHING PONY

I think that's a good idea too... a nice soft microfiber cloth. The soft microfiber cloths are really good to clean the glasses with too

Very Nice - and I have never seen that.... turned lining. Nice Touch!

Verrry Nice! Just in time for Halloween too

What a Great bag - in my favorite two colors too.

WoW! That is a Grrreat looking Briefcase! Niiiice Work!

OH Hey, you are right... Now that I think of it, when I started making coasters they were out of thinner leather and quite a lot of them did warp and curl up. Then I started using thicker leather and I no longer have that problem. I forgot all about that... Some times even now, after cutting the rounds and tooling there might be a bit of a curve to the leather. So I wait for the coasters to be finished and dry and if they aren't flat I will wet them a bit from the back side and put a weight on it till it is flat and dry. Something else I have had to remember is that every one has a different idea of what they like, and it is hard to make everyone happy. If I make a wolf or a horse, some one might suggest I make birds... that just happened as a matter of fact......... If I just made a bunch of clocks, then they want wallets... but I guess that's good thing too. I'll just get busy making some wallets. I think it is OK to make coasters - if you want to make coasters... The best part of leatherwork is having fun while you are doing it and then the Grrrreat feeling you get when someone appreciates and uses what you have made.

Stewart - Nice Coasters! Nice work. Michelle - I make and sell a lot of coasters too. You are right, leather coasters are not good for icy/cold drinks. Cold Drinks need something absorbent under them. But Leather coasters are grrreat under Hot Coffee cups... I have given coasters to friends that have used mine for years and only one has discolored (kind of a milkey color over the dark brown). I don't really know what they spilled on it and I think I used Super Sheen on that one. All the rest that were made the same look like new. I have a coaster I have had for at least 35 years - it came from King Marking with an order for a metal address stamp - and all it has on it is an embossed logo and No dye or seal at all... it barely shows any wear at all - of course all I use it for is under Hot Drinks.

I don't think so. I remember having trouble a long time ago - trying to do something - and it was caused by my needing to Update my Browser, or Upgrade my Operating System.... I don't know a lot about those things, so I really can't answer really technical questions. You might try asking this question in the "Computer Help" section. Just to make sure - when I go to "My Gallery" click on "Edit " next to the album you want to change and then you will see these three things are directly below each of your pictures on the left - in this order Cover Image Delete Image Rotate Image

top of the page Right side - next to your name is a down arrow with choices.... pick "My Gallery" when you get there..... scroll down and under each picture is all kinds of choices of things to do including Cover Image Delete Image Rotate Image

When I started doing leather work I started out making coasters and I used a really neat gizmo that cut leather in perfect circles... much better than I could ever do by hand. I got it at misterart.com ( right now they cost $22.85 and $3.76 for a pack of 40 refill blades) It will cut perfect circles in fabric, paper, mat board, cork, leather, veneer, linoleum and most other materials up to 1/4 in. thick. Capable of cutting circles from 3/4 inches up to 6 3/4 inches and Includes 5 blades, 2 blade holders and a centering guide. If you want to make even larger circles - They also make a Beam Slide Extender ($10.46) that allows cutting of even larger diameter circles . The Beam extender is 9 in. long and can cut circles up to 15 3/4 in. LION Ev-R-Round Perfiect Circle cutter (You might also find this interesting if you want to stamp letters in a circle) Hope this helps.....

I just did a search here for inlay stone and found some interesting posts you might be interested in… Like maybe this one… although I probably wouldn’t use the backing board on the copper bracelet - maybe a thin piece of leather glued under the stone and also onto the copper, to help keep the stone secure and in place. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31144 Scroll down to this post - Posted 08 April 2011 - 01:57 PM

That is a beautiful stone you've got there. Not like any turquoise I have ever seen before, but I'm sure that is because of 'where' it is from. Do you recall where that piece is from? It also looks like you have done some nice settings of cabochon's and tumbled/polished stones and have done a Real nice job of it too! The turquoise cabochon under the grey/black leather looks perfect to me. Nice Job! I have never done something like what you are attempting, but I am sure when you are done it will be fabulous! If I was going to do that, I would probably make some samples first to make sure of the sizing first, probably because I would want to glue the stone and the leather/copper together to keep everything in-place while stitching it all up. I Love the look of turquoise and leather. (I really like the look of the med brown leather with the turquoise.) I hope you post pictures when you are done!

Beautiful Belt!

What you have done with that old vintage' pattern... design, tooling, coloring........ is pure perfection sir...

HI, I just found this and thought I'd mention you can find all kinds of instructions for leatherworking stuff at Kingsmerecrafts and they have instructions for 3-Strand mystery braiding & a 5-Strand mystery braiding Kingsmerecrafts has a huge wealth of information on stitching, tooling, braiding, lacing - all kinds of good stuff..... Btw - I found this over on Kansassaddlery.com just another cool way to use the braid......

Just had to add a couple of more pics of Inspirational leather work made with stamps by Wayne Jueschke I recently saw some work by Bob Blea and he had used a stamp made by Wayne Jueschke for the border and I just love the way it looks Also this piece is made by motetra amd the stamp is made by Wayne Jueschke I LOVE this basketstamp. FYI - Wayne Jueschke P. O. BOX 1895 Elko, NV 89803 775-738-4885

WOW! That is Just Beautiful! The bag design, the roses, the stitching... Missy is a lucky lady! If you don't mind... what did you line that Beautiful Bag with?

can't remember where I got this......... Neat-Lac Has a lacquer base and is very durable and clear, it is waterproof with a glossy finish. It is ideal for leather items receiving a lot of hard wear, especially outdoors. Clean brushes used to apply it in Neat-Lac thinner or cellulose thinner. Tan-Kote This finish is waterbased. It is clear, with a semi-waterproof finish that applies smoothly and will not streak, with a non-shiny finish. It can also be used to thin antiquing stains, not only that, but small amounts of Spectra Shade dye can be mixed with it to colour-tint the finish. The only drawback, though a minor one, is its liability to become spotted and stained if subjected to prolonged periods out in the rain. A big plus is that you can clean your brushes in water. Super Shene This is a water-repellent acrylic and when dry has a high-gloss finish. It is hard-wearing and flexible and can be applied to the majority of leather items. Leather Glow This is actually a very light antique stain and when it dries it gives a semi-gloss finish to the article. It is useful too for accenting tool impressions and knife cuts. Water can be used to clean your brushes. Hi-Liter This is a stain very similar to Leather Glow but is much, much darker and will dry to a semi-gloss finish. It is the perfect medium for almost all stamped designs and for enhancing tool impressions and knife cuts. Make sure you don't waste time cleaning your brushes in warm water, otherwise they go stiff and tacky. Carnauba Cream This is a water-based leather conditioner. It's full of natural waxes (carnauba is a yellowish wax from the Brazilian palm), and when dry, polishes up to give a nice sheen. It's most suitable for smooth, plain leather surfaces. Though it can be used on carved leather, that necessitates using a stiffish brush over all cuts and impressions after it's dried. Neither will it enhance carved or stamped designs as the two finishes above. You'll also need to use warm soapy water to clean your brushes. Edge Kote You can get this in brown or black and it's primarily used to finish off the edges of belts, handbags and any other item not having a laced or turned edge finish. You can if you so wish use it to dye the backs of belts or any other item without a lining leather. It's not the most penetrating of dyes so you'd be better to first dye the edges with a black or brown Pro Dye to ensure a solid base for it. Rinse out your brushes immediately before washing in warm soapy water.

Heheheh - there are lots of verrrrry old posts here..... this is from back in 2012