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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. @mloser Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines Tom
  2. @TKLC Moved your post to Suppliers. You might have more chance of getting help here. Tom
  3. I notice that with leather jackets that I have, that stiffer leather produces the squeak. Soft leather ones I have, have never squeaked. Tom
  4. @Squirrel42 Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You are much more likely to get some help here. Tom
  5. Copied from Tandy's website: "As you may know, we have been closely following the guidance of the CDC and local health officials on COVID-19, and we’ve been making decisions about store closures on a day-to-day, location-by-location basis. We want to do everything we can to limit the spread of the virus, so we have taken the step to close all our locations to the public effective immediately, even where it has not yet been required by state or local authorities. To shop, visit tandyleather.com or place an order by phone and have your supplies delivered to your door. We are currently offering FREE shipping on orders over $100. *Exclusions Apply" Two stores in Calgary and neither of them show up for online ordering. See above. Tom
  6. Only store available for me says El Paso as well. Did a store search and it locates the city but still says the closest store is El Paso! Tom
  7. Northmount

    linen thread

    Hard to send a message to you when you don't list where to send it. Only members can send PMs (private messages). Guests can not. Why don't you join and then you can post under the marketplace. Help Wanted is more like the classified ads, people looking for work, or employers looking for help. Every post in help wanted has to have moderators' approval before it can be seen by the public. Tom
  8. Northmount

    Old leather.

    maybe "water trough" Tom
  9. Have you looked at the banner ads at the top of the page? Each time you refresh, a new set of ads appears. Texas Custom Dies is one of them. You could also do a google search something like this "site:leatherworker.net clicker dies manufacturer" without the quotes. May need to change the search words, but you will find this is a common question asked and answered many times. Tom
  10. Sounds like a screw has loosened up. Tom
  11. A couple ideas to try. Take a beveler the width you want the line to be, line it up against a straight edge and drag it along the leather several times until you get the depth or burnish you want. (Assuming no swivel knife cuts) Make up a simple tool like used to press the spline into window screen frames. Use a washer the width you want the line to be. Run it along a straight edge on your leather. Have you figured out a tool for the rest of the design? Make up a couple stamps to use sort of like basket weave stamps. Use a SS bolt. Looks like a couple circles filed in the face of the tool would work for this design. Tom
  12. I like a lining in leather caps and hats. When you have a bald spot on top, the leather gets hotter than heck, and makes for a headache. In the winter, it also helps to keep that bald spot warmer! I need the insulation. Tom
  13. Try a google search "site:leatherworker.net marble leather" without the quotes. You will find a number of posts about it. Tom
  14. You can also press it into properly cased veg tanned leather. Tom
  15. Clean with saddle soap and wipe it down with the yellow coloured Listerine. For those that are having trouble with leather going moldy or mildew while tooling and taking a break for a couple days with the leather bagged to preserve the moisture content (casing), add some Listerine to the casing water. Tom
  16. Take a piece of veg tanned leather, dip it in some water for a moment, then lay it out to dry. Every 10 minutes, stamp it with a good sized stamp that has some detail in it. Mark the time. Watch to see the difference as it starts to dry. When it is close to returning to its normal colour, switch to 5 minute intervals. Continue until the leather is dry. This will show you what too wet and too dry does to how the impressions look after the leather has completely dried. If you use the same thickness of leather, and treat is the same way, you can literally time at what point to start tooling, and the point at which you need to add a small amount of moisture to keep the leather at the condition you want while tooling. Tom
  17. @niles Moved to leather sewing machines. "help wanted" posts require approvals before they can be seen by the membership. All subsequent posts by members to that thread also require approvals. You'll find more help here as well. Tom
  18. @SeanC moved your post to the forum leather sewing machines. Have you read through this thread? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/ Tom
  19. You should identify the make/manufacture of the machine. Singer has their own thread sizes. Tom
  20. @NewfoundlandLaw moved your post to leather sewing machines Tom
  21. Moved your post to braiding. Hopefully you'll get the answer you want here. Tom
  22. Edit is only available for a short window of time, maybe 2 hours. If you need things edited after that window closes, ask a moderator to do it for you. Tom
  23. Added the photos in for Pete and deleted a couple posts that would no longer make sense. Tom
  24. Look for the same stamp numbers on eBay and see what they seem to be selling for. Some are of course worth a little more depending on how rare they are now. Tom
  25. Thicker seams tends to grab the needle and lift the presser foot on the up-stroke, collapsing the loop so the hook can't grab it. Try increasing the spring compression on the presser foot. Tom
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