Northmount

Oxalic acid is not as likely to damage the finish. But you should test it on a sample first to verify. Tom

@MikeF I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You'll be more likely to get help and comments here. Tom

You might like to post about this in the "Leather Sewing Machine" section of the forum. You'll get more comments there. And welcome to the forum youngster. Tom

You can also try using oxalic acid, also available as Bar Keeps Friend. A teaspoon to a pint of water. @Glassjaw003 It is a good idea for you to put your location in your profile to get help local to your area of the world. I see from your IP address you are located near Arlington TX Tom

According to his/her IP address, is located in Seattle, WA, USA @Simplejack1985 It is a good idea to put you location in your profile. Then you will more likely get responses that are useful for you. Note that this is a worldwide forum. Tom

Two ways to go after this. One is to go to the forum you posted in and scroll through the posts. I see that you posted in "Leather Sewing Machines" yesterday. So if you start at the home page, you can scroll through it to find that forum, select it, and again, scroll through the posts there. Another quick method is to go to your profile, top right-hand corner of the page, select your username and pick profile. Under it you will find a running list called "Your Activity". On this list, you can select the posts you have made. You can also pick your profile from your username/description on the left of any completed post by selecting the username. Tom

After a long Google search, I don't see any LRW, but do see in the Schmetz brochure a type LR, also called RTW. I wonder if someone combined the types to LRW? Schmetz leather-needles.pdf Groz-Beckert Needle Chart.pdf @youdesiremenow I am moving this post to Leather Sewing Machines where the experts are! Tom

Agreed, a gentle bend should not be a big problem. I found the couple photos I was looking for that demonstrate what happens with more aggressive wet molding. This one is obviously tooled before wet molding. The example below was tooled (or touched up) after wet molding. Both these saddles were commercially made and being sold in a tack shop. This is of course much more extreme than a gentle curve as the leather had to be stretched and pulled in order to fit the swells on the tree. Tom

Carving and stamping will go mushy and lose definition if wet molded after carving. I have some photos of saddle work that illustrates the problem. Will have to go hunting for them. To stamp after wet molding, you need a matching solid shaped piece inside while stamping. Tom

I assume it is on the typical adjustable K-leg stand. Remove the machine and motor from the stand. take the bolts out of the legs and raise the table to the height you want it at, replace and tighten the bolts. Reassemble the machine and motor to the table. It is too heavy to raise the table when fully assembled. You'll either hurt yourself or the machine. Neither area good idea. In the computer and control system industry, they have special desks built that have powered lift/lower mechanisms. They would be handy for different working heights. Need to be able to support the heavy machinery! Tom

Need to see a picture of the project in order to be able to make recommendations our how to fix your particular project. Dry leather, especially thick leather will crack when bent sharply. Three things you can do to help prevent cracking are to make sure you replace lost oils in the leather, make grooves in the back of the leather to reduce its thickness at the fold line, and moisten the leather along the fold before you bend it. Let it dry in the final shape it will normally be in. Tom

From Wikipedia " Turpentine (also called spirit of turpentine, oil of turpentine, wood turpentine and colloquially turps) is a fluid obtained by the distillation of resin from live trees, mainly pines. It is mainly used as a solvent and as a source of materials for organic synthesis. " Doesn't seem to keep the pine beetle away from pines! There is a huge infestation in British Columbia and Alberta. And with how little actually gets absorbed by the leather, all there would be is a slight smell that some people would find attractive. Maybe insects and rodents would also be attracted! I would guess that it was used because it acts as a solvent and makes it easier to combine with beeswax and NFO. It might be considered by some to be a little more natural than using varsol, or other petroleum based solvents. But I wouldn't use it on leather. Of course I know absolutely everything about leather! Tom

To begin with, I would say that the spacing of the holes and the size of the holes depends a lot on the thickness of the leather. And it only makes sense that if you don't want gaps large enough for small stuff to eventually fall through, that means the holes have to stay close together, as in the original patterns. This is all my opinion as I haven't made any projects using this seam yet. I have been collecting information and photos to use it some day. Tom

The bag, or the welted seam? The hole spacing for the welted seam can't be scaled up. Just add more holes and make it longer. And of course if you leave gaps in any joins, stuff will fall through. Tom

Reduce the file size and you can literally post a hundred photos. Check out this thread plus following postshttps://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171 Tom

If the waste is ends cut off straps, cut them to a standard length, like 3 or 4" and lace them together end to end using a cross stitch to make a belt. Then punch and lace the whole belt. Can mix and match colours too if you are so inclined. Tom

Have you tried searching for any recipes here? There are lots of threads and posts if you care to search for them. Lots of experience with recipes as well. Tom

Tan(20) = 0.364 https://researchmaniacs.com/Math/Tangent/Degrees/What-is-Tan-20-Degrees.html And a tangent calculator https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/math/Tan_Calculator.html You can find all this kind of stuff on the web these days. Don't have to go digging for your old Math Tables from 60 years ago if you have access to a computer/phone/tablet and an internet connection. Chances are there is a calculator on your smart phone that will tell you too if you select scientific mode! Tom

@Azarl Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. I would seriously look at putting a crank or large handwheel on your machine if I was in your circumstances. Tom

If you are really looking for help, start a new thread in the appropriate sections of the forum. Don't goo off topic and contaminate threads like you did here. If you are spamming us, you will soon be blocked. Tom

The tannin in the tea probably helped to turn the cushion dark. If there was any iron products in the original upholstery leather, it would react and turn towards black. Oxalic acid or barkeeps friend may aid in bleaching it back, but may also take more color out than you wish. It should have been rinsed and cleaned immediately. BTW, posting twice in a row doesn't get your post approved any sooner. Be patient. Tom

Start at least with 50% alcohol. Test on a piece of the same leather as you are using. If still too dark, double up. It is best to add dye to a project a layer at a time to build up to what you want. Leather in general should be veg tanned, and not previously dyed. I assume you are adding colour to highlight areas and not the whole object. Tom

Your are most welcome. Just ask a moderator to help. I have had larger items emailed to me so I could post them. I'm quite willing to carry on the practice! Tom

@Lowball72 Moved your post to Home/Specialty Leatherwork/Other Specialties/Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins. You should get more help here. Tom

@Langgit Moved your post to saddle construction forum. You should get more help here. Tom