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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. So I guess you can visualize "the metre has been officially defined as the length of the path travelled by light in a vacuum during a time interval of 1/299,792,458 of a second." I can visualize many things, like electrons (or holes if you like) flowing in an electrical circuit, but to visualize how far light travels in 1/299,792,458 of a second is beyond me. Your definitions for an inch can be easily visualized for a rough estimate. I have no problems with English (Imperial) or American units, nor with SI units. I work in all three. Have taught (for 19 years) engineering/technical folks in both Imperial and SI units for years. Converted many tutorials, lab assignments to SI units as we adopted SI in about 1979. Re-derived formulae using SI units. Have worked in the EPC industry for 20 years using whatever system the client wishes to use. I can flip back and forth at will. You should look at Pipe Tables if you want to see a real mess. No one is ever going to change the dimensions on 2" pipe, nor the threads associated with it. But 2" pipe is called 2" pipe, though I see some people trying to call it 50mm pipe. But that should be 50.8mm pipe! Makes a lot of sense doesn't it! Also pipe thickness is given as Schedule 10, 20, 30, 40, etc. No reference to Imperial or SI. It's just a crazy world. I still think the best conversion system for those without SI Metric abilities is to use 2 rulers, laid side by side. Gives excellent visualization. Tom
  2. 1 m is equivalent to 1.0936 yards, or 39.370 inches. Since 1983, the metre has been officially defined as the length of the path travelled by light in a vacuum during a time interval of 1/299,792,458 of a second. Love these base definitions that nobody can understand! Tom
  3. Buy a ruler with mm and use it to do your measuring. 1" = 25.4 mm. Nothing neat and clean about conversions. From your basic math, round up if the last digit you are concerned with is 5 or greater. Round down otherwise. And if your are trying to convert to 1/16, or 1/8, etc., go back to your basic math and figure it out. Tom
  4. SaddleBags is talking about cutting down the holster pattern. It's a pattern or measurements the OP wants, not cutting down a rifle to fit a pattern! Tom
  5. Hey Andrew, you need photos, selling price, etc. Please read the marketplace rules and comply https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom
  6. I copied and pasted it into MS Word, then made it into a PDF. Did a slight amount of editing. 3rd party sites often change permissions, files get deleted or moved, then the thread becomes useless after that point. Motorcycle Grips.pdf Tom
  7. @Stewbeans22You should add your location to your profile so you get answers or comments related to your location. Appears from your IP address that you are near Baton Rouge Louisiana. buyleatheronline is located in Italy. Tom
  8. @Dia1996 Start your own post instead of dropping your ad into others for sale items. I will be removing your post from this thread. Tom
  9. The waterbased contact cement I have used is not water soluble after it has set. Cleanup with water must be immediate. Heating will reactivate the cement if you have an area that didn't have good contact when you put it together. (Or if you need to separate the items, heat will help like other contact cements.) Petroleum based solvents help to clean up a dried mess, but is difficult to do a nice cleanup. Tom
  10. @Frodo If you haven't read this thread, you should. Tells what you need for a leather sewing machine. Tom
  11. Pictures would help identify it. Most portable machines are domestic machines. Tom
  12. For your next wallet, consider making a liner that expands and contracts as the wallet is opened and closed. The attached pattern is for such a wallet. The wallet back page 4 (red in the pattern) may be lined with a thin leather liner. The lining leather must be thin to reduce any wrinkling of the lining leather. Expandable wallet pattern.pdf Page 5 shows the right side assembled, the left side is still open so you can see how the tabs fit. Print pages 2 through 4 full size, not sized to fit. Other pages you may print to fit or just use the file as reference. Tom
  13. @SFoglio moved your post from wanted to for sale. You need to provide a selling price and information about shipping. Will you ship, how, cost? Read the marketplace rules. Tom
  14. Resize your photos, see Tom
  15. DNA tests are showing many unexpected siblings and relatives! Great tool! And your work looks really nice too. Tom
  16. Tom
  17. Bostrom appears to be located near Greensboro North Carolina according to the IP address. Tom
  18. Ernie Cox https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_22mBsfiQO0 lace cutter that was supposed to go into production some years ago. You may be able to build this yourself. Also demonstrates a beveler. A comment to the video above refers to " Y-Knot Combination Beveler and Lace Cutter. Not sure if Ernie invented and sold to them or if he took theirs and modified it. Go to Y-Knotlace.com " Simple cutter from DavidMorgan.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7LV8IHU7lw A DIY version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbdEvLOLpCo Lots of interesting contraptions you can build for cutting, skiving, and beveling lace on the web and on youtube. Have fun Tom
  19. A lot of what you want to do doesn't necessarily involve tooling. So you could drop that portion until later and learn to cut, assemble, sew, rivet, etc. using hand tools. Need patterns and a sharp knife - a box cutter will do to start with Something to mark out stitches with, a good sewing awl with very sharp diamond point, harness needles and thread. Some contact cement will help hold thing together while sewing, or for attaching a lining. If lacing, will need lacing chisels, single and multiple prongs for the size of lace, lacing needles (I use a permalok) and some lace. Maybe a good place to start might be a pre-cut kit where you are just assembling and either lacing or sewing. Then you can get a feel for some of the work and move on from there. Others will be along with some specifics and ideas for you too. Tom
  20. What type of items do you want to make? There are many routes to go. Are you interested in tooling, sewing bags, making belts, etc? Can't tell you what tools you need until you tell us what you want to make. Tom
  21. The file size for your photos looks good, so I don't see why you should have trouble uploading the files. Maybe a slow internet connection or overloaded connection? I was going to tell you to resize the photos, but that is definitely not the problem. Tom
  22. LWN has changed to a secure webserver so all previous URLs that were http://leatherworker.net ... etc. now need to be https://leatherworker.net ... etc. So the URL becomes https://leatherworker.net/sharpenheadknife.htm Tom
  23. You can cut the pieces out, dip dye them any colour! Or you can now do some more searching on the web for this type that has been drum dyed by the tannery. Tom
  24. Edit is only available for a short period of time after the post. Maybe an hour. Please post the photos to this site. Third party hosting eventually goes astray due to changes in policies, user removing their photos, changing access permissions, etc. That destroys the continuity of the thread and makes it useless anyone reading it in the future. You may need to reduce the file size to be able to post here. You can find instructions and helps here. Tom
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