Northmount

If the waste is ends cut off straps, cut them to a standard length, like 3 or 4" and lace them together end to end using a cross stitch to make a belt. Then punch and lace the whole belt. Can mix and match colours too if you are so inclined. Tom

Have you tried searching for any recipes here? There are lots of threads and posts if you care to search for them. Lots of experience with recipes as well. Tom

Tan(20) = 0.364 https://researchmaniacs.com/Math/Tangent/Degrees/What-is-Tan-20-Degrees.html And a tangent calculator https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/math/Tan_Calculator.html You can find all this kind of stuff on the web these days. Don't have to go digging for your old Math Tables from 60 years ago if you have access to a computer/phone/tablet and an internet connection. Chances are there is a calculator on your smart phone that will tell you too if you select scientific mode! Tom

@Azarl Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. I would seriously look at putting a crank or large handwheel on your machine if I was in your circumstances. Tom

If you are really looking for help, start a new thread in the appropriate sections of the forum. Don't goo off topic and contaminate threads like you did here. If you are spamming us, you will soon be blocked. Tom

The tannin in the tea probably helped to turn the cushion dark. If there was any iron products in the original upholstery leather, it would react and turn towards black. Oxalic acid or barkeeps friend may aid in bleaching it back, but may also take more color out than you wish. It should have been rinsed and cleaned immediately. BTW, posting twice in a row doesn't get your post approved any sooner. Be patient. Tom

Start at least with 50% alcohol. Test on a piece of the same leather as you are using. If still too dark, double up. It is best to add dye to a project a layer at a time to build up to what you want. Leather in general should be veg tanned, and not previously dyed. I assume you are adding colour to highlight areas and not the whole object. Tom

Your are most welcome. Just ask a moderator to help. I have had larger items emailed to me so I could post them. I'm quite willing to carry on the practice! Tom

@Lowball72 Moved your post to Home/Specialty Leatherwork/Other Specialties/Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Moccassins. You should get more help here. Tom

@Langgit Moved your post to saddle construction forum. You should get more help here. Tom

3rd party sharing may pose problems in the future when the file is moved, deleted, host goes out of business, or permissions are changed. So it is much better to post them here. Then the thread stays intact for future reference for all who want to use it. I have downloaded the file and posted it here. Singer_31-15.pdf Tom

Search for mold or moldy in the forums here. I have seen a number of posts about removing mold. Tom

I believe there was a post a couple months ago indicating he was having some sort of trouble and wouldn't be available for some time. Tom

@olddogTim You may like to add a couple pictures to get a little more interest in your post. Tom

@Bilbrey09 Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. More likely to get some response here. Tom

@JohnMacomber Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more info here. Looks like and upholstery type machine, probably will sew up to 3/8" thick. Others will be along with some specs and experience for you. Tom

Yes, on the inside of the spine so it is easy to fold, doesn't stretch and wrinkle the outside as much. Forces the cover plus spine to fold exactly on the groove. When I do a 3 part cover, I overlap the spine piece on top of the front and back covers. The covers don't need to extend right into the edge. Tom

The hand wheel won't turn, or the press is jammed? I assume this is a hydraulic press. If the press is jammed, you will have to figure out how to bleed the pressure off would be my guess. Tom

Cut grooves in the inside on each fold. The fold bends nice, and gives a more square look to the cover's spine. Tom

I'll try to put this together in simple terms hopefully to make it easier to understand more complicated concepts later. ISO is how fast the film is, or rather a measure of how much light it needs to be properly exposed. In place of film, you now have an electronic image sensor. High ISO numbers mean fast film (or equivalent) and tend to produce grainy photos. Lower ISO speeds produce finer detail, less grain. Since a low ISO number needs more light, you have to supply more light by either opening up the lens aperture, or by keeping the shutter open longer. Lens opening (aperture) is measured as f-stop numbers. The lower the number, the wider the opening and the greater amount of light is let through the lens. f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22 are examples. As you go from a higher number to the next lowest number on your lens, the amount of light delivered is doubled. Depth of field is an interesting item. It describes how much of the object being photographed is in focus measured from front to back. A pinhole camera has great depth of field. So that tells you that a small aperture increases the depth of field. If you want the background to be mushy, out of focus so it doesn't detract from your prime object, you work with a large aperture (low f-stop) to provide a shallow depth of field. Exposure time ... if you double the exposure time, say 1/125 second to 1/60 second, you double the amount of light the sensor receives during the exposure. If you want great depth of field, you move to higher f-stop numbers. For each number you increase your f-stop, you will need to double the exposure time. So if you had set your camera for for f8 and shutter speed of 1/125 second, and want to increase the depth of field, you could go to the next highest f-stop number, f11 and increase the exposure to 1/60 second for the same effective exposure. So looking at f-stop, each increment halves or doubles the amount of light received by the sensor. Looking at shutter speeds, the marked shutter speeds on most cameras also halve or double the amount of light received by the sensor. Fast shutter speeds help eliminate the effects of camera shake. Slow shutter speeds require a very steady camera so most often require a tripod. Most people can get reasonably crisp photos at 1/60 second or faster. Wide angle lens can extend the apparent steadiness; longer lenses, telephoto magnify camera shake so need a solid support for crisp photos. Macro shots need a steady hand or tripod. There's lesson 1 and 2. Now get your camera and experiment. At least with a digital camera, there is no film cost hindering taking lots of practice shots. Just be discriminating and delete all but the very best, else you will use up lots of storage space! When practicing years ago, I used to shot 2 or more 36 exposure rolls of film per week. So a lot of those were B&W to reduce film and processing costs. One last comment, under-exposing a shot by 1/2 to 1 stop can increase the colour saturation. Sometimes useful to do. And of course the opposite, too much exposure washes out colour and detail. Tom

A 6" and a 3" pulley, so 2:1, plus the 3:1 in the geared servo. I like the way the speed reducers Cowboy Bob has. I may someday rebuild mine like the box that sits between the motor and the table. Just have too many other projects to get done first! As long as the pulley that drives your machine sits behind the centre line of the machine pulley, you can tilt the head back. With my reducer in front of the leg, I can't tilt the head back without loosening or removing the belt. Lesson learned! If I could, it would make it easier to tension the machine belt. Tom

My junk box has a number of sheaves and other odds and ends in it from other projects, or stuff I have salvaged. Only thing I had to purchase was the bearings. Chances are, you should be able to get sheaves and pillow block bearings from Harbor Freight, or from some of the local hardware or big box stores. Tom

Third party hosted files often disappear over time due to changes in the host's policies, files being moved or deleted, host goes out of business, etc. When this happens, the thread becomes useless for future readers. Please post your photos on Leatherworker.net to prevent this. I downloaded your files and added them to your original post. Tom

SPI is stitches per inch. A measure of stitch length. Tom

@butch lambert Thanks for providing the photos so we could update this thread. Tom