Northmount

For me, Firefox works as Wiz says on a PC. On an iPad, if I want to copy some text, I hold my finger on the text (touch and hold) until the IOS selects some text, then adjust the limits of the text selected, touch select, copy, switch to the location I want to copy to, touch and hold the spot until the paste instruction appears, then touch paste. To copy a URL, touch and hold on the URL, when prompted, select all, copy, then go paste. I can't speak to Android yet, but that may not be far off. The last IOS upgrade is trash, and I can't go back. Speed for almost anything, and especially for switching tasks, has hit rock bottom. The screen appearance is awfull, not what I would call an upgrade. The safari browser crashes frequently. Especially if you touch an embedded youtube while scrolling, but many other random times too. Their music player crashes on certain songs as it plays an album, yet will play the same song when picked by name. These problems and Apple's idea of how it organizes photos, mp3 files, etc., not allowing me to organize folders ... has irked me since I got the xxx thing. So after fighting it for 3 years and the added problems, I'm looking for change. Just about bought a BB Playbook, but with BB's problems and no stock, that's out. Tom

Here it is http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48303&st=15#entry342498 Tom

Depends on the size of the die. Tom

I moved this to leather sewing machines for you as suggested by others. Hope you are okay with the move. Tom

Follow this link. Do a search and you'll find more. Tom

Tight bottom tension pulls the knot to the bottom, and the bottom thread lays on the surface, and you may even be able to pull it right out with little trouble. You need to learn to properly set your sewing machines tension. It should be set so the knot is in the centre of the leather. There are many posts and threads about how to set thread tension here. Do a search and study out how to set it. Tom

Brush type servo motors are analog control. So the adjustment for speed is a potentiometer (adjustable resistance). You turn the knob to set the upper speed range. The others are digital servo control, brushless. They have a little display, use push button switches to make adjustments. I have both. Once you have the max speed set, you aren't likely need to adjust again for sometime. The potentiometer is easier to quickly adjust. The sewpro from Toledo has 3:1 gear reduction built in so has better low end torque. Depending on specific manufacturers, some digital servos have very good low end torque due the the capability of providing precisely controlled pulses and yet be able to maintain precise speed control. They are high end and cost substantially more. Tom

Make custom ones out of Kydex. Works quite nicely. Can be made to fit anything. Rough up the back side of the Kydex and use a good quality contact cement to mount it in the case. Barges works great. Tom

Pictures? What machine, what thickness of leather, what thread and needle? Need more information for people here to be able to diagnose and help resolve the question. Tom

Try these ones http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html bonded nylon thread, colours, lubed ... Tom

Rivets or screws will work as long as you keep the standoff or make a new stand off. I had to make new standoffs for one I did. Used a combination of a 1/4" nut and a piece of 1/4" copper tubing. The nut against the leather to provide a larger surface area against the leather, flared the copper tubing and put the flare against the nut. The small end of the tubing fit into the space between the bars up tight against the main part of the mechanism. I used the socket half of a Chicago screw, an 8-32 nickel plated brass oval head screw with the trim washer you often see used with leather or canvass. Used a drop of glue when tightening up the screw so it would come loose later and fall apart. Maybe next time, I'll make a better standoff on the lathe, all one piece with a wide area to place against the leather, and narrow end to fit inside. Tom

Try Toledo, see banner ads at top of the page. Tom

220 in North America residential service is single phase. May be 2 wire or 3 wire, but is still single phase. There is no 220 2 phase. 220 VAC 3 phase is a different animal. Used in commercial and light industrial applications. Usually nominal 208 VAC 3 phase. You need a single phase to 3 phase converter to use that motor. Would be easier to switch motors and use a servo motor. Tom

So there is too much tension on the bobbin. Reduce the bobbin tension a quarter turn at a time. You stated you have lots of tension on the top, trying to pull the knot up into the leather. The leather, hole size (needle size), thread size top and bottom, and the bottom tension have to work together to place the knot in the middle. If you have the right needle and thread sizes, the only thing left is the bottom tension. If I use too large a thread in my bobbin, it won't pull out easy enough. The slot in the bobbin is too small. The bottom tension should be about half the top tension. Tom

Read the previous post! Tom

Too much bottom tension? Tom

Read post #127, and other subsequent posts. Always a good idea to read the last few posts in a thread like this. Tom

Take a real good look at the leather before you start doing anything with it. Kind of looks like fly bites. Hard to tell from the small photo. Someone else quite some time ago placed paper towels or something like it one the leather and then a weight to flatten the leather out. It left some strange markings. Take a look at how you have stored the leather while it is wet (cased). It is very sensitive to being marked accidentally. Sometimes even wristwatch, cuffs with snaps or buttons while you are tooling. This doesn't look like that to me, but check how you are handling it. Tom Edit: I guess another thing could be hard spots in the leather. They won't react the same as the rest so may not absorb the oil and leave "dimples".

Other threads have suggested you should do the tooling after the wet forming so you don't lose the depth and detail. I would do the dye after the tooling so it doesn't open up spots with no dye below the surface. If you can support the area you are tooling adequately, should have little problem tooling after forming. You can search for wet forming and tooling or carving. You will find more opinions and instructions. Tom

Try bleaching the leather with oxalic acid. Could try a deglazer if oxalic acid doesn't work. Search threads here for more info on using oxalic acid to bleach the leather. Tom

Welcome. Good to have you here. What area of the country are you located in? Tom

Use a wet tooth brush to clean out the welt. Use a wet sponge or rag to remove the salt. May need to go over them more than once to dissolve and remove the salt. Then use Aussie Leather Conditioner or Dubbin to work some oils back into the leather and to protect it. Warmth helps get the oil into the leather. Tom

Really great job! Tom

Did a search for woodgrain and found this http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3087&hl=woodgrain#entry48095 The search tool on the upper right of the page can be your new best friend. Try it out. Tom

Welcome from another Calgarian. Tom