Northmount

Cut grooves in the inside on each fold. The fold bends nice, and gives a more square look to the cover's spine. Tom

I'll try to put this together in simple terms hopefully to make it easier to understand more complicated concepts later. ISO is how fast the film is, or rather a measure of how much light it needs to be properly exposed. In place of film, you now have an electronic image sensor. High ISO numbers mean fast film (or equivalent) and tend to produce grainy photos. Lower ISO speeds produce finer detail, less grain. Since a low ISO number needs more light, you have to supply more light by either opening up the lens aperture, or by keeping the shutter open longer. Lens opening (aperture) is measured as f-stop numbers. The lower the number, the wider the opening and the greater amount of light is let through the lens. f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22 are examples. As you go from a higher number to the next lowest number on your lens, the amount of light delivered is doubled. Depth of field is an interesting item. It describes how much of the object being photographed is in focus measured from front to back. A pinhole camera has great depth of field. So that tells you that a small aperture increases the depth of field. If you want the background to be mushy, out of focus so it doesn't detract from your prime object, you work with a large aperture (low f-stop) to provide a shallow depth of field. Exposure time ... if you double the exposure time, say 1/125 second to 1/60 second, you double the amount of light the sensor receives during the exposure. If you want great depth of field, you move to higher f-stop numbers. For each number you increase your f-stop, you will need to double the exposure time. So if you had set your camera for for f8 and shutter speed of 1/125 second, and want to increase the depth of field, you could go to the next highest f-stop number, f11 and increase the exposure to 1/60 second for the same effective exposure. So looking at f-stop, each increment halves or doubles the amount of light received by the sensor. Looking at shutter speeds, the marked shutter speeds on most cameras also halve or double the amount of light received by the sensor. Fast shutter speeds help eliminate the effects of camera shake. Slow shutter speeds require a very steady camera so most often require a tripod. Most people can get reasonably crisp photos at 1/60 second or faster. Wide angle lens can extend the apparent steadiness; longer lenses, telephoto magnify camera shake so need a solid support for crisp photos. Macro shots need a steady hand or tripod. There's lesson 1 and 2. Now get your camera and experiment. At least with a digital camera, there is no film cost hindering taking lots of practice shots. Just be discriminating and delete all but the very best, else you will use up lots of storage space! When practicing years ago, I used to shot 2 or more 36 exposure rolls of film per week. So a lot of those were B&W to reduce film and processing costs. One last comment, under-exposing a shot by 1/2 to 1 stop can increase the colour saturation. Sometimes useful to do. And of course the opposite, too much exposure washes out colour and detail. Tom

A 6" and a 3" pulley, so 2:1, plus the 3:1 in the geared servo. I like the way the speed reducers Cowboy Bob has. I may someday rebuild mine like the box that sits between the motor and the table. Just have too many other projects to get done first! As long as the pulley that drives your machine sits behind the centre line of the machine pulley, you can tilt the head back. With my reducer in front of the leg, I can't tilt the head back without loosening or removing the belt. Lesson learned! If I could, it would make it easier to tension the machine belt. Tom

My junk box has a number of sheaves and other odds and ends in it from other projects, or stuff I have salvaged. Only thing I had to purchase was the bearings. Chances are, you should be able to get sheaves and pillow block bearings from Harbor Freight, or from some of the local hardware or big box stores. Tom

Third party hosted files often disappear over time due to changes in the host's policies, files being moved or deleted, host goes out of business, etc. When this happens, the thread becomes useless for future readers. Please post your photos on Leatherworker.net to prevent this. I downloaded your files and added them to your original post. Tom

SPI is stitches per inch. A measure of stitch length. Tom

@butch lambert Thanks for providing the photos so we could update this thread. Tom

Note www.Tinypic.com has ceased operations September 16, 2019.

You are very observant. I had noted that too, and since it wasn't 5 or 10 years ago, decided it might be worth a try to get him to repost. Assuming he has maintained his email address, he should get notice of my request, even though he hasn't been back to this site since the day he posted. Maybe he will follow through, maybe not, but I felt it was worth a try to get this thread fixed so it could retain some of its value for future readers. @butch lambert Hey Butch, please help us out. We would sincerely appreciate it. Tom

@butch lambert Hey Butch, please repost your photos here! This is what happens to 3rd party hosted photos when someone changes permissions, moves, deletes or otherwise screws it up. Lesson to everyone, please post your photos on this site. Tom

Not melting! Only warm enough to warm the cement to reactivate it, but instead of pressing it together, you are going to pull it apart. Tom

Have you updated the motor connections for 220V? Normally the interior wiring of the motor needs to be changed for different voltages. And at 220V, the motor will draw roughly twice the current as it does when wired for 440V. Have you got the wiring diagrams for 220V and 440V to compare where the connections need to be changed? Tom

OP is located in IL (Illinois) as listed in his profile to the left of his/her post. Tom

If you look back a few posts, you will notice that I advised you I had moved your thread to Leather Sewing Machines so you would get more input from experts in that area. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/87554-stitches-are-looped-under-work/?do=findComment&comment=597663 If you go to the main forum page, you will see all the forums along with descriptions of what they are for. https://leatherworker.net/forum/ We are just trying to keep the posts somewhat organized so people can browse or follow their areas of interest or expertise. It also helps you get answers for particular questions, and allows you to browse or search your areas of interest for tips, photos, helps, etc. Tom

New subject, start a new post in the applicable forum so you are more likely to get answers from people with such equipment or problems. This is cluttering up an otherwise good thread. As you are no doubt well aware, a bell skiver is not a sewing machine. Tom

@JeannieH Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. You'll find more help here. Also, see this needle and thread size chart https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html For straps, the higher the thread tensions, the more likely the strap may curve, and especially if you changed tensions between sides. The leather may also have a natural curve it wants to follow. Tom

Resewing through old holes throws off the tension settings versus new. Tom

No apologies necessary. Appreciate your posts. Tom

Please post your photos (first post in this thread, plus current ones) here. 3rd party hosts links are lost when permissions are changed, host stops sharing or goes out of business, files moved or deleted. When the photos disappear from this thread, the thread becomes useless. Take a look around some of the older posts that used 3rd party hosting and you will see how discouraging this is for people researching a topic. Tom

Please post your photos on this site. 3rd party hosted photos seem to disappear due to changes in host, moved, deleted, etc. Then this thread becomes useless as no one can view the photos. If you browse threads here, you will see the results unfortunately. Tom

Check out his link https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-No-Stitch-Leather-Flask-Cover/?fbclid=IwAR2Ltepn9Rm7hOgT9dDzDxFnYaqMHyuS59HP0QkZQ0PxdLUowahTX3uFon4 Tom

Good start. I know you didn't ask for a critique, but here goes anyhow! Sharpen and strop your swivel knife so it is easier for you to follow the lines. When you think it is sharp enough, sharpen it some more. Strop after every few cuts. Make sure your leather is not to wet. Knife drags a lot when the leather is too wet. It should be practically back to its original colour when it is dry enough. Take your time with your cutting. Pull towards you. Don't get in a big hurry. Hope this helps. Tom

@GnewVFL Have you attempted a search here looking for what to charge? There are many threads and posts in this forum. Try this search https://leatherworker.net/forum/search/?&q=selling price leatherwork&type=forums_topic&nodes=36,35,22&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy Tom

And your selling price is ?????? Tom

@km6064 Moved your post to the "Marketplace" This is where for sale items should be posted. Please read the markeplace rules https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Please provide the price, any shipping information like local pickup only, or willing to ship at buyer's cost, etc. Tom