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jcuk

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Everything posted by jcuk

  1. You might want to have a look at a Plough Gauge as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWDYPytDVu4 You can get other makes such as old Dixons for sale on ebay, also you can buy new ones like Verez Blanchard and George Barnsley. I have also seen them on Bruce Johnson from time to time, you might want to read what he has said about them on his site. Hope this helps JCUK
  2. Hi there Drop Abbey a email ask them about this leather its, what is used on English style saddle seats it may work for you, i know that you are the other side of the pond but you may have a supplier of Pittards leather or something similar that side of the pond. Have a look at the cruiser line that may work for you, i will say it that it will not be cheap. https://www.abbeyengland.com/pittards-panel-hides-7705.html Hope this helps JCUK
  3. I rarely glue my work but have used double sided tape ( Tandys, when it was on offer ) you can get the same stuff from any craft shop. Found it worked ok. If you 're worried about it showing on the edges, cut it narrower- then your work should not be seen. Hope this helps JCUK
  4. Do you have a pull through splitter? If you do, run it through it - but only take a slither off, stain or dye it, then burnish, treat the dyed or stain side with resolene or some other product to seal it. But i will say do a test piece first, to see if it works for you. Hope this helps JCUK
  5. This kind of edge shave will give you more of a round profile but take a bit more to maintain. https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-hollow-edge-shave-3005.html Hope this helps JCUK
  6. Hello this buckle may help you. https://www.abbeyengland.com/conway-loop-2940.html Or you could try using a martingale turn on your straps like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEG9i_RSBG0 Hope this helps JCUK
  7. He they are . http://www.aacrack.co.uk Hope this helps JCUK
  8. Hello, Metropolitan natural tooling butts go up to 5mm which is between 12/13oz and the 3.5/4mm is about the weight you are looking for . https://www.tandyleather.com/en/leather-buying-guide.html Hope this helps JCUK
  9. Have a look at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUV5-dOjVFA hope this helps JCUK
  10. jcuk

    Tool Brands?

    Take a look at this site. https://www.dictum.com/en/leatherworking-papercraft-tools-upholstery-bb Hope this helps JCUK
  11. Probably of no use to you being the other side of the pond found on EBAY.co.uk but have a look at their site your of the pond you may get lucky. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-COBBLERS-SADDLERS-LEATHERWORK-ROLLERS-MADE-IN-GERMANY/223611571247?hash=item341049cc2f:g:AbQAAOSwQXpc2AE2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-cobbler-saddler-leather-working-roller-Teutonia-LOTLWT0017/312694474225?hash=item48ce0b05f1:g:EcUAAOSwIbFdJiiv https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Cast-Iron-Copper-Mangle-Cobblers-Tools-Leather-Workers-Saddlers-Machine/133026806665?hash=item1ef903fb89:g:s9EAAOSwmlZcuOrp Hope they are the same machine. Hope this helps JCUK
  12. Here is a couple of videos that may help too Just remember to keep your free hand behind the cutting edge, many experienced people have a healthy respect for this tool. .https://youtu.be/hbQZt_VduEI https://youtu.be/dej8BH1DFgs Hope this helps JCUK
  13. Using Linen Thread in English style tack production is the more traditional way of making English saddlery. Both Leather and Linen Thread being natural products just seems right too. Only time i use Tiger Thread is when i am replacing Girth straps to the webbing which i feel would be more abrasive on Linen Thread than the Tiger Thread. Hope this helps JCUK
  14. Hi i use 5/18 Linen thread for stirrup Leathers using Pricking Irons 6 stitches to the inch. From the images it may not be clear but, the stitch marking is done on the flesh side of the leather rather than the grain side. Hope this helps JCUK
  15. I also only hand stitch stirrup leathers imo safer and stronger stitch. Hope this helps jack
  16. Hi yes i use Abbey too for my stirrup butts they are nice but there are alternatives, although one maybe more expensive - had a price list for them from about a year ago not sure where it is or if it is up to date, email them for a quote, never used leather from but never heard a bad word about them other than its not cheap J&JK Baker. The other is Metropolitan leather, which i use a lot, near enough for me to drive and select the leather i want - they do two weights of bridle butt the heavy one is 5mm which possibly could be used for stirrup leathers, again email them and asked their opinion on this. I do know on one old review on the 5mm, the saddler had said it was ideal for stirrup leathers this maybe a cheaper option. I have used both weights in various colours and have been happy with it makes lovely bridles. As for laminated stirrup leathers, yes have used them when working in horse racing, the quality varies - some have been ok but they can become very scruffy if not maintained and looked after the stitching on the laminate can wear and look very unsightly, not to mention safety - although the better quality ones do seem ok. http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/equestrian-leather/stirrup-butt/ https://www.metropolitanleather.com/Buy-Leather/Buy-Vegetable-Tanned-Leather/Coloured/Coloured-Old-English-Bridle-Butt Hope this helps JCUK
  17. You could always let sit there for a while no real harm should come it, and you could purchase some lighter weight leather or get some scrap leather to practise on and build up your skill level and then use it to make some of horse tack you want to get onto making. Hope this helps JCUK
  18. If it was me the long term health implications to my families and myself would take preference over every thing else this kind of thing may come back and haunt you and your family in later life. I know you have have said you have tried other adhesives i would for sure would for look something a lot less toxic and work out a way to a make it work. To be honest i don't glue much of my work and if i do always open my workshop door and leave it to set and then go back to work, most of my work in lightly tacked together prior to stitching. Hope this helps JCUK
  19. I had a good look at this one but after someone gave me the heads up on here i steered clear cheers Matt.I did contact the seller recently to see if they would budge on the price no deal even said to them i would have to get a compressor to run it, no chance. Anyway since then i think i am into a deal to get the machine that's suits me a lot better. Hope this helps JCUK
  20. Did you go to there showroom. I also have a Singer 45k but its in storage i am looking to upgrade soon got my eye on something a bit special just have a few things to sort out. By the way nice work. JCUK
  21. Hi here is a link to there website, i have been to there shop they also have The Cowboy Outlaw their although not listed on their site did not have a test on one should have because i own Tippmann Boss. https://www.franklinco.co.uk Hope this helps JCUK
  22. Interesting Round knife on eBay - for decoration only! eBay JCUK
  23. No worries as i said just remember only use it for a cutting board only it will scratch your work once worn. Hope this helps JCUK
  24. No not at all, its what we used when training with a master saddler - there no real drag all, i don't sharpen my knives much just a good strop before and after work. Like you i also own a knipschield knife Texas Rosebud had it 2.5 years never seen a stone, also own a Osborne round knife not the greatest but once i got it sharp strop and go may have to sharpen every now again also have a unbranded single head knife which i got when i finished my first course 25 years ago same with that one to cost £13 quid great little knife. Hope this helps JCUK
  25. You might want to check returns policy who pays that. Hope this helps JCUK
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