Constabulary

post pictures please but If I got you right you should loosen the set screw on the stopper (adjustment ring?) and reposition it (if we are talking about the same stopper) but please post pictures!!!! Could also be a problem with the knee lifter it self but different models are out there - so pictures please

Pretty sure UWE had a video on this but with a different machine - as far as I recall... or not?

springs likes this often go inside the bobbin case to prevent back slash of the bobbin.

a video w/o material under the foot gives a better view on what what the feed dog does

Video is quite blurry but could it be that your feed dog is too high or rises too early?

agree with Jimi - it´s needle feed machine, you can see the hole in the feed dog and the pivot point for the needle bar. Don´t know the model but if the price is right I would buy it.

What is the modification - the short cut in the right foot? What is the advantage? 135 thread is quite tick for a Singer domestic machine. You calculate tension in percentage - are you a scientist? Maybe its just me but I don´t get what you want to say - but maybe its just me.

is it probably a needle feed machine?

you can get decals from Keeler Sales. https://singerdecals.bss.design/ They sometimes have single pieces from reject decal sets. Just browse their website and send them an email with what you could use. I´m sure they can help you.

I think the brochure is newer than your machines and I´m sure it does not cover all subclasses. Singer probably dropped some subclasses and some new subclasses where added... I don´t know...

all triple feed / walking foot machines have a vibrating presser bar - this just means the outer presser foot bar (when you look form the left side it is the bar on the left) is holding the material down until the needle penetrates the material and moves up when the needle bar and inner foot + feed dog are feeding the material. Moving up and down means vibrating in Singer-English. BTW - not sure if I posted this brochure already. It´s a 1950s sales brochure for the 111 type machines Singer 111w Class Machine Brochure.PDF

Some extracts form my 108w20 manual - hope this helps

you have no sight hole - you have an oil hole - the sight hole is above the bulge (see picture of my 111G156) You can pull out the stitch length knob (and rod) and nothing goes out of alignment. There is a short end with very coarse threading at the end of the hand wheel that's the "guide" for the pin inside the stitch length knob. You screw it in by turning it toward you with a bit of pressure to the knob (jiggle it a bit back and forth for finding the right point...) EDIT: the last 3 pics are from my 108w20 which has the same stitch length adjuster as your early 111. And the Singer 153 also has this type of stitch length adjuster.

The machine (pictures in 1st post) has no safety clutch (no plunger in flat bed) and does not need a plunger for stitch length adjusting as it is a very early version of the 111 with a knob for stitch length adjustment. I would guess its from the 1930´s - 1940´s era. Well depends on the point of view - if it was a plain drop feed straight stitcher I would not touch it but a triple feed / walking foot machine that cost me nothing - why not? You cannot earn money with a restoration & selling it but for the fun and then owning a functional walking foot sewing machine for what ever (future) purpose... why not :-) Seems most parts are present. I would first buy the missing parts (not many I guess) and then reassemble it and when it sews I would start the restoration. I would also not strip it completely. Maybe dry ice blasting is a fast way for cleaning and removing old paint.

You are welcome. There are some differences but basically they are pretty much the same in terns of threading and their basic functions.

Maybe the 211U566 manual helps more - should be approx the same machine but made in Japan instated of made in Germany. Singer 211U157A_165A_166A_566A THE MANUAL.pdf

is the G566 subclass special somehow? if not this one should help you Singer 211 Operators Guide-Large.pdf

I have a attached a manual and mechanics instructions - hope they will help you. Manual Adler 30.pdf EDIT: I cannot attach the mechanics manual - file is too big (cannot compress it properly) Please send me a PM with your email address so I can forward it.

sometimes it helps when people are writing full sentences instead of throwing some words into the crowd

I haven´t sewn gloves yet but even some fur sewing machines where sued for sewing gloves - maybe an option for you. see from min 7:00 onward

Industrial sewing equipment is not universal fitting. I guess you have to modify the throat plate and maybe feed dog or the screw posts or the binder attachment or all - modifications are not unusual. Some pictures may help to evaluate your issue. I had to modify my 108w20 a bit as well. I have chosen a different kind of binder attachment so I modified the binder bracket and the throat plate. Works perfect for me now.

does the cat have handles now

I would not remove the shaft. Rather wash out the grease with Paint thinner, motor cleaner, Diesel or similar. Really leave the shaft where it is! If other tension springs do not fit clip off the top coil - will not hurt giving it a try.

Your machine has no safety clutch! Hook is no longer spinning - looks like you have loosen some screws on the hook driving gears. I guess hook is out of time now (too). I did not say thread goes the wrong way. I said it seems to be hanging somewhere between the small tab of the bobbin case and the notch in the throat plate (tab sits in the notch) and your bobbin case opener is NOT opening the bobbin case to let the thread pass between the small tab and the notch in the throat plate. So my guess was that you only have to adjust the bobbin case opener - thats why I linked the video. Hard to assist you from the distance if you don´t know anything about sewing machines. I would honestly recommend that you go to a sewing machine technician for industrial sewing machines.

You will not find any manual where the thread is running over the small pin - neither Singer nor Adler or Pfaff - period. You just see this in YouTube Videos and from there on it spreads around the world because very one "has seen this on youtube" and trust what they see. People no longer look into their manuals cause everybody is expecting to find things on youtube nowadays. Plain and simple - RTFM. Running the thread over the pin may work but it is just not necessary. If it works - fine - go ahead and continue this but there is no technical reason for running the thread over this pin. It just makes threading a bit more difficult The tread hanging (I think) is either a timing problem (hook advanced / thread lever lifting to early for what ever reason) or your machine is not set up for the thread size you are using and the thread keeps hanging between the notch in the throat plate and the small tab on the bobbin basket (space between the parts too narrow so the thread cannot slide through properly). Furthermore - it seems your bobbin case opener is NOT opening the bobbin case - this could be parts of the problem too. But an 8 second video is probably a bit short for seeing a pattern. EDIT: The bobbin case opener function is quite well explained in this Video: