Constabulary

College Sewing in the UK has all parts. If you cannot find them in the Singer section check the Juki 562 / 563 or Seiko STW or LSW series machines. Lots of Seiko, and Juki parts are compatible. Thats the big advantage of vintage Singer machines. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/10707-vis-de-regulation-seiko-origine.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/224144-attachment-slide-plate-front-singer-212.html Face plate for the 111 or 112? https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/210911-singer-112g-112w-212w-face-plate.html If you cannot find the parts search for the the parts number and if that does nor help send CS an Email, they respond soon.

You can sew thicker materials with a longer needle, meaning the needle bar will not hit the foot when the material gets thicker. When ever possible I set all my machines to 135x17 no matter what the original needle system is just because I only have to stock one needle system and can use them in all machines.

we do not know your machine and how everything is set up also the picture you posted is very small and hard to tell where / how it is mounted. What source comes the picture from? Plain cheap "wax post" are the oil cups for the Singer 29K but not sure if that's is helpful in your setup.

I do not know this clicker but I guess you have 380V CEE plug right, maybe you have to change a phase. Just a guess, I know nothing about clickers but many modern 380V devises have a phase switcher (not sure if this is the correct English term) https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=phasenwender Hope you know what I mean. Again - just a guess!

Both have 2mm shank diameter. The 135x17 is ~5mm longer than the 135x5. So when you are using 135x5 and want to switch to 135x17 you have to raise the needle bar by ~5mm (plus some fine tuning maybe) and vise versa.

Hot needle are normal when sewing dense / thick materials. And the higher the sewing speed the hotter the needle. Nothing unusual. There are needle cooler available if thats an option or a thread lubricator may reduce the friction a bit as well but not sure if that works for you. https://www.google.com/search?q=sewing+machine+needle+cooler&client=firefox-b-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=VubgucjcRKI7IM%2CVfRYIl9y3fqOXM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kTRBX3MAqPDlYixlgbu0EyCmn8Ygw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi14KOBuejsAhWGqqQKHaVCCmQQ9QF6BAgFEEc#imgrc=VubgucjcRKI7IM https://leathermachineco.com/product/magnetic-thread-lubricator/

Are you sure D2 is the needle holder? The double needle afaik is for sewing tucks and for sewing tucks I think the two "D2 holes" are to far apart - or not? If D2 are needle holders would the needles pass through the slot in the needle plate? I´m not sure... I´d rather say the 2 needles are clamped in the notch left and right of the center needle holder but 1738 most likely is the right needle anyway.

Frobana and Gritzner are out of production for a long time and if you see modern types of this machine they are most likely refurbished old machines. A cobbler told me that a few month ago. I always thought they are continued by other companies.

I´m not 100% sure but the double needle holder where meant for small diameter shanks like the 287 / 1738 needle if I recall that correctly.

Yes, if you want to cut the tape your self from fabric you need a binder that folds center + top + bottom. Clean finish so to say. But I don´t think there are shell binder for the 69 that fold tape to a clean finish. You may tinker something. I did that with binders for my 108w too. I took a binder for a flat bed machine and modified a bracket so I can use all kind of binders / folders for flat bed machines now. Or you cut and iron your tape (like bias tape) then you can use plain shell binder too. I have some tape makers / belt loop folder like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-60Pcs-Fabric-Bias-Binding-Tape-Maker-Kit-Binder-Tool-For-Sewing-Quilting/274504755967

Edge binders come in a looooooooooooot of variants, most common are raw edge binders which fold the tape just once in the center. Then you have clean top and clean bottom binders which folds the tape twice (1x center + 1x top or bottom) and you have binders that fold the 1x center + 1x bottom + 1x bottom. So lots of variants. There may be more but thats what is most common. Edge binders of any type are usually set for using just 1 type of tape. Make sure the binder can handle the thickness of the tape you want to use and have a wide enough "mouth opening" so that is can handle the material thickness you want to bind. College Sewing has a wide range of binders in different qualities. I usually take the economy binders https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/folders-attachments/economy-golden-eagle-folders/economy-golden-eagle-binders.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/folders-attachments/economy-golden-eagle-folders/economy-golden-eagle-binders/economy-shell-binder.html The numbers on the shell binders like 18 x 6 x 1.5 mean: 18mm tape width x 6mm mouth width x 1.5mm max. tape thickness You may find them cheaper on Ebay but CS offers a good range of binders and gives you a good overview of whats available and they for sure have a better customer support than Ebay sellers from China Hope this helps. EDIT: A tape rack may be useful too but that depends on your workflow and output if you need one or not. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/accessories/chair-stands-table-tops/tape-racks I always wanted to test this one but it will not fit your Adler 69 (so rather a note to my self ) https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/tr212w-tape-rack-with-tension-bracket.html

Pretty sure that it is a fake / scam website. Better buy from a dealer witha good reputation.

depends on the needle and thread size you want to use. I would test this on some scrap leather.

You probably can replace the needle holder if not frozen or is one piece with NB ex factory. I´m not sure in your case but the new NB have replaceable needle holder. If not replaceable buy a new gauge set with needle bar. I´m pretty sure the nowadays needle holder will take 135x17 needles but better check with the dealers.

New or used machine? Have you consulted the manual for your machine? It may give you hints.

its a needle feed + drop feed machine so yes, it has a feed dog.

I cleaned the 2 gear boxed thoroughly and sprayed synthetic chain lube on the gears. Nice sticky stuff for sewing machine gears. I would never fill a sewing machine gearbox with grease again. I really love this stuff. Just what I do, others may have different or better solution.

Thor brand machines are just another Chinese clone brand of Juki Sewing machines. I generally don´t think they are worse or better than other clone brands. How good or bad they are depends on how well adjusted they are to your specific needs and how well they are supported by their dealer(s).

sometimes it can be a simple part like a different foot lift lever or just setting of certain parts but I don´t know the Pfaff details.

my preferred way of cleaning - very efficient!

I have a 111G156 and 212G141 and they all take the same parts as the 111w. I haven't noticed any differences. But you never know what previous owners (plural) did with the machines

see above post (just edited it) - yes - difference is the reverse. since you own both machines just test them and see which one suits your needs better.

most likely I´d keep the 155 but I do not know your machines in terms of condition and so forth... . The 112 has a longer flat bed and does not fit into the 111 cut out. But it has reverse - thats nice. I have a 212G141. What info are you looking for? Its a double twin needle feed machine, approx 5SPI max stitch length, gauge set for different needle spaces are available cheap either on Eaby or from College Sewing UK. But be careful - there are 2 different types of needle holder, one push in type and one screw in type. The screw in type is more common today. If yours is a push in type you can to change out the needle bar for a screw in type needle bar. Foot lift depends on how the machine is set up but I get 9-10mm material under the foot of my 212G141. Here is a 112w140 manual - same machine but w/o reverse and US made instead of Made in Germany. 112W140.pdf

Yes, its nut #8. Reg. the front wheel - I don´t know where in the US you can buy all the parts but I guess Toledo Sewing Machines is a good source. I bought mine from College Sewing in the UK. But I´m on the other side of the pond. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/singer-sewing-machine-parts/singer-29k-71-parts But first check if you have a gear on the top shaft. Its mounted in front of the cam.

105-64 are excellent machines in general. Maybe you can shot a video and load it up to Youtube and post the link here. Visualizing often is better that explaining. Regarding different thread sizes - I would recommend using a 2nd or even 3rd hook. You adjust either one to the thread size you prefer and change them out as needed and then you only have to adjust the top tension. Should not be too difficult. The 105 Machines are using the same hook as the Singer 45K or Chinese made GA5-1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/114221141266 Don´t know how good or bad the above hook is but I never had problems with the parts from this seller.