Constabulary

Thats a cool idea for a hand crank machine!!!!

and here is a parts list - but probably of a later model. Maybe you can ID the foot thingy from the parts list. Pfaff 138 Teileliste.pdf

can´t tell from the picture but seems not to have the double needle holder. I´m not sure but the 138 came with different diameter Needle bars afaik. Some bits on the 2nd tension unit are missing. Looks like a 1940´s - 1950´s machine. Any chance that you could ask for a close up pic of the foot and NB area and maybe of the knob in the middle of the arm - could be that this is a 6mm wide zig zag machine - which is rare! I attach an adjustment instruction for the 138 just in case... Adjustment Pfaff 138.pdf

Okay got it. So it depends on the point of view. However - I just wanted to show how "bad" a BCL can look like and even brazing would not make it useable. Bend it back? Yeah, could work but will it? Will you hit the right angle? You would not even notice this if you don´t have a BCL to compare with. I´d rather buy a new BCL before bitching with worn out parts. Just wanted to show this. Right one is the bent one. Left one is an almost perfect BCL.

Why not sticking with the new one? Or is it just for historical reasons? I have 1 or 2 brazed tip BCL´s as well but honestly I would rather buy a new one instead of reconditioning an old one. One day I figured that one of the used BCL has a different angle than the other ones - why that - bent? I have no idea and I do not recall where it came from (drawer find?). Maybe I can post pictures later. So since then when ever I have to replace a BCL (well, not too often really) I better buy a new one so I'm sure it is straight. They are not too expensive in comparisons with the time you spent for brazing and filing (measuring, filing... measuring, filing....). And you can be sure the tip is symmetric. BTW - tip diameter is 5mm. My 2 cents.

I know the 115 from other Pfaff machines and that usually is a special double needle holder for sewing tucks (Biesen). The ones I know of could either hold 1 needle in the center or 2 needles left and right of the center needle hole and AFAIK they also need special needles of system 130B (round shank and 1.62mm diameter) - if I recall correctly. Please post some pictures of your machine.

Buy the 29K71 - all parts are available. The 29-4 is a funny decoration machine but nothing for daily work and just very few parts are available but not the important ones like gear box pinions (not made for decades). The 29-4 base is also missing the pedal. the 29K71 seems to be in great condition VS the 29-4 seems to be kind of a barn find. Don´t get me wrong - everything can be restored. 5 years I have restored a barn find patcher too but also have a 29K71 and trust me - the performance of the 29K71 is by far better than of the 29-4. They my look similar but the details are important. This was my barn find restoration: Earlier the same years I restored my 29K71 since then I have updated the patcher with some OEM Singer parts. If you need a proof of performance - this is my 29K71 sewing ~12mm webbing

is your machine already slowed down with a speed reducer?

Singer 108W20 should be possible to switch to a different needle system with same shank diameter (1.99 / 2mm), it just requires adjusting the needle bar. But I had issues with some sort of needles with a longer tip which were scratching the hook at correct timing. So that is a bit of trial an error. I´m still using 135x1 / DPx1 needles on the 108w20 until they are consumed - but that may take some time as I have plenty. The 47W66 seems to have the same needle system as my "1st pattern" 51w. Problem here is the needle bar - you need one that accommodates 2mm shank needles but it depends on the NB diameter and most important - the NB length!. My 51w had the same NB diameter as the Singer 111w needle feed machine (different NB as on the 111w triple feed / walking foot machines) so I thought - great - easy task but NOPE - NB was too short and I was not able to locate a longer NB so I had to install a longer upper NB guide bushing. But that required drilling / milling. I don´t know the length and diameter of the 47w NB so please post some pictures and measures. I guess the diameter is the same as on my 51w or 111w / 211w needle feed machines so it depends on the length. The 111 / 211 needle feed needle bar has parts # 240020 but you have to check if the length works for your machine and if the diameter is the same.

Agree with Bert! There is no tension release during the sewing cycle. The tension release is only required when you lift the foot lever and remove the material. As much as I like Harry´s videos but in this point he is wrong! The Singer 31 and 31K are the same 31 is US made 31K is UK made. The suffix K means Kilbowie, thats where the UK Singer plant was located once.

107G I guess - Germany made version odf the 107w

you are welcome - glad it worked for you.

Most likely a machine from ATLAS LEVI Sewing Machines, so his own branded Chinese clone I guess. I sometimes stumble over their videos on YT - you may have seen them too.

Both machines seem to be based on the Mitsubishi BP-810 and I seriously doubt there is a tremendous quality or technical difference. The cobra seems to have a "modern casting" whereas the Techsew is rather an older style casting (but who cares). I think they are most likely technically "quite" identical - if you find parts list of either machine just check them. I guess (guess!!!) the major difference is just the casting. To give you an idea how "810 type post bed machines" can look like: https://www.google.com/search?q=810+post+bed+sewing&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjViK-j_97lAhUtsaQKHa7CBgMQ_AUIEigC&biw=1280&bih=869 I bet my (snooker) balls both machines are using the same hook, needle plate and feed dogs and so forth and these parts are available dirt cheap - so cheap its even worth to modify them (for your needs?) I just recently bought some random "810 type" parts for the restoration of my old 1930´s (or even earlier) Singer 51w sewing machine w/o knowing if they would fit at all and I can tell you they fit well and I can even run 138 thread with one set up (needle plate feed dog combination). The point is these machine never were meant to run a "rather thick thread" because the application they were designed for required a rather thin thread (usually sewing shoe uppers and the like) but that does not mean that they can not handle thicker thread as well. With other words I honestly think that both machines can run #92 thread maybe even thicker. You may consider the Cowboy CB-810 as well... My 2 cents.

Just found this picture in another thread - it may help you to locate the parts EDIT: Just saw your reply. Here it is is but sorry not pictures. Dismantling Pfaff 145 SML.PDF I also have the parts list with old parts number but it is in German language and different to the "new" parts list and to large to attach here please send me your email address so I can forward it.

No need for removing hook and feed dog parts. Pull out the needle bar rock frame. You can pull it out sideways thats a lot easier. If you have a parts list it shows the involved parts. I also have a dismantling instruction for a 145 but it refers to an old parts list with old parts numbers but it may help you.

afaik it is a driven top feed + bottom feed machine but has no needle feed.

singer 16-188 I guess

#5 (on your picture above) is not for putting tension on the thread it is for regulating the thread slack. Also seems your check spring stop is too low (I guess). Its should hold the thread tight / under tension until the needle touches the needle plate (approx) . You can adjust is by loosening the screw that holds the spring stop (curved piece of metal). The soldered pin looks odd but seems to be technically okay. at your yellow #a the thread guide looks like a Singer 111 thread guide - I think. Anyway in this case I would only let the down going thread pass this guide. But should not be a too big issue. The Pfaff thread guide should look approx like this (see last 2 pictures) Again - make sure you pulled the thread over the tongue in your thread regulator (your #5) see the video I have linked - THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT!

You are welcome, glad the problem is solved. Make sure you download the manual it contains a lot of useful information.

I´m not exactly sure what you mean. Any chance that the bobbin case stop finger (part # 210764) is not holding the bobbin case base in place or is probably missing or in wrong position??? You can loosen the screw and slide the stop finger up and down a bit and when it is to high the bobbin case base is not held in place - probably. Here is how the hook area looks on my 107w1 but please show pictures of yours and if possible shoot a video and upload it somewhere (Youtube, Vimoeo...) and link it here

Check if you insert the needle correctly, needle is threaded front to back, and needle scarf is on the backside, also check the needle / hook timing. Here is an instruction manual. Hope it helps. 107W1,W3,W5-inst.pdf

Have it - original Singer parts but I have no springs! Felt washers are new. See pictures. But college sewing seems to have the 2 inner springs https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/parts-by-machine/singer-sewing-machine-parts/singer-45k-parts

Regarding LED light - check out the VILTROX L132 or L116. its quite cheap, you can run it with accu (for outdoor) or AC and you can change the light temperature and brightness. Very cool thingy it is!

I think I have either a complete unit or the unit minus the 2 inner springs... Let me check...