Bert51

I used the manual from the Adler 205-370 as my guide. I was told to use them by the Adler mechanic here in Australia. The instruction are similar to 105 or 104. Here is the operators English version, https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205-370/B_204_370_EN.pdf Service manual, https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/205-370/S_204_370_DE_EN_FR_ES_IT.pdf Bert.

Try going up one size in your needle size. I found that some vinyls can stop the thread from looping point of the hook taking it. Bert.

I have an Adler 105-6 and sadly awhile back I jammed it up and my stitch length went south. I have 8mm forward and about 6mm reverse, by Uwe's stitch length guide. When I changed my machine from 7x1 needles to 328 needles could not have tighten the allen screws enough on the drive dogs and they moved. I quickly took the head off the table and as I did not mark the final position I took a guess where it should be and finished the sewing. Sadly I did not get it where I want it, but when it annoys me enough I will take it off the table and do it properly. Bert.

Thank you Gymnast, I think we are learning all our lives and if I can find anything that may help me with my endeavors, then I am interested. I think you have extended my learning curve and make me think how I can improve my sewing. Again thank you. Just added this video to your folder. Bert.

You are right Rockoboy, surprising what a difference it makes to have the right stamp for you project. I think I have about half a dozen sets in my kitnow. Bert.

Many years ago before I got my first sewing machine, I brought a couple awls from ebay and sadly they were not ideal and I read somewhere, that you can make a good awl from a drill bit. I have just one or two broken bits laying around the drill press. I found that worked well in my drill press. Like stellhawk I found it hard to remove the awl, so I cut a slot in a piece of 5 ply and that allowed me to make it easier to remove the awl. Bert.

Thanks.

Sadly....................

Thanks, added to the collection. Bert.

I rarely use anything under 20M in my Adler now that I have other machines, it was only when I was using light thread that I did not wrap it around the pulley 1 1/2 times anti-clock wise and like JLS said, the tension is " cranked down", but I don't use a tension wrench. Each machine is different and each operator sets their machine up differently, i remember a post not long ago of some one using hammers to get their tensions right, how I what my stitching to look, maybe not how you like it, so your tensions will be different to mine, but you need to follow the correct threading to get consistent stitching. Mate, I'm not game to any rifles in this house, the wife keeps threatening to use one if I bring any more machines home.... Bert.

As I was playing with different tensions settings, I found the bottom tension pulley must turn and not slip on the pulley, especially with 20M or heavier. I also found a few drops of oil on the felt washers every now and then also kept the tensions stable. But I think each machine and each operator will need to find what suits them and their machine, my machine is as old as me and I know I do not work like I used to............. Bert.

I have an Adler 105 which appears to use the same as Constabulary posted. When I got it, it was the only machine I had and I found the learning curve steep, as I used thread from 60M to 10M and needles from size 18 to 26, so I soon found it will do it, but you need to change your thread tension a bit. With 60M thread I found if I left the top tension alone and ran the thread under the main tension pulley it will sew okay and 20M and below I wrapped it 1 1/2 times around the main tension pulley. I learnt very early on that I practice with the scraps from the project to setup the machine each time. I think the more time you spend playing with what you wish to sew, the sooner you will learn how this machine will work for you. Have heaps of fun. Bert.

What type of machine do you have? What type of needle does it use? When I brought my Singer 31K47, they had a weird size needle in it and could not find a supplier in Australia for them, then I found this Forum and read where you can adjust your needle bar to take another needle. Now I use a easy to source 135x16 or 135x17 as they are readily available. Bert.

If you have you belt to tight , you will find the peddle stiff to push down and hard to feather starting to sew. Remember, it is a sewing machine not a car. Bert.

Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits is not like Turps you buy from the paint department from Paint your local Hardware Shop. Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits, in Australia is made from Eucalyptus trees and from what I have read Pine trees in other parts of the world. It's a specialised turps used by artists that paint pictures with oil paint, not enamel paint you use at home or to wash your brushes with, the Turpentine I use does not even smell like the other Turps. As I said before please read NorthMounts post about it. Bert.

Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits is what Northmount said earlier. The last time I used Gum Arabic, I was making the sauce for Heine Spaghetti. Bert

@ Frodo, may I ask who your is? We don't have them in Australia. Bert.

Thanks for showing us that nylonRigging, you gave me an idea saved your photos to print out later. I changed out some curtains for the wife some time back and put the old rods in the shed and a quick look and think they are the same size as the thread stand rod. Looks I will be playing with a thread stand before the day is out. Bert.

I have broad shoulder and water runs off me, as if I may be water proof. All good TargetRock, I have been blindly using this conditioner for more then 20 years with out question my friend. I asked him for the recipe and he laughed at me, again. So I asked what was in it and why. 1. Beeswax, conditioning, waterproofing and thickening 2. Lanolin, conditioning, waterproofing and moisturizing. 3.Neatsfoot Oil, conditioning, waterproofing and moisturizing. 4. Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits, used to thin the above ingredients to a usable paste. This Turpentine Pure Gum Spirits is a special Turps, in Australia it is made from Gum trees and used mainly by artists using oil paints. Bert.

I have made all my thread stands longer, but I thought mine where long, wow, nylonRigging 6 foot, my might look at changing the stand on my 132K6, I have a roll of Black giving me a little grief, every now and then. Bert.

Wow, looks Awesome. Looks like you have spent many hours working this piece of art. Any chance of showing it lay flat, so we can see the whole picture. I would be real proud of it, if it was mine. Bert.

When I sold the farm and moved into town, I brought with me a near new roll of 8 gauge fencing wire and now I think I've lost it, went looking for it the other day and all I could find was a few coils of it. Buggered if I know where it's gone. Bert.

I believe you are check with that statement, but sadly some people in some countries believe they are using the correct measurement of not only thread but lots of things, why. It would make our lives a little easier. Buggar, Little People in Little Offices. Off soapbox, for now. Bert.

Some years back, all I had was my wife's Viking sewing machine and I had all sorts of problems using large spools with it and I made my own thread spool, although it was heaps better I still had a few problems with it, mainly towards the end of the spool. All I did after reading gotoknows post was to make a wire rig that gave me about a foot of straight thread above the spool holder and before coming to the machine first thread guide. I think if you give the thread a place where it can be kept straight for a short time some of the tension is released from the thread and there fore goes through the machine easier. All of my machine thread stands have about a foot straight before going to the machine and I have one less problem with my thread. If it was as easy to fix the link error on the machine, that would be great. Added a picture of one of my early thread stands, thank heavens for fencing wire. Bert.

On the subject of tensions, whether Bobbin or Top Thread it does not matter, you have to work out what works for you, for your machine and what your sewing. You use very little tension on thin leather and heavy tension on thick leather. There is some very helpful post here to guide you to find your ideal tension for this project, hewre is a link to what I found helpful information from one Aussie. Say no more, but the whole thread makes good reading, Bert.