toxo

Great info as usual Brian. On the vacuum side, you got me thinking about sparks in the bag. Maybe it has an air driven impeller to avoid that. Thinking about the feed roller, I've noticed there are different types, is there a preference for thinner leather? The one I'm getting was apparently used by an upholstery firm so should be ok. Also I watched one video that said the carborundum feed stone is used to take the burrs off the inside of the knife, that's not right is it?

Is why I'm buying this one. Doing it by hand is time consuming, inconsistent and easy to make a mistake especially on soft chrome tan.

Thanks Brian. I plan on picking it up on Tuesday. There are a lot of 801 vids on YT but they don't seem to go beyond the basics. For example the angle of the sharpen as the stone wears down or doesn't it matter? I don't suppose it'll come with a stone dresser. Thanks for the link. Looks like spares are not hard to find. The only reference I can find for the "Eagle" brand is in London so that might be good. I'll call them tomorrow. Hopefully they'll have some info on the vacuum side. It won't be getting a lot of use so maybe a cheap compressor will be a cheaper option than changing to an electric motor.

Well God help me, I've provisionally bought the second one. The seller knows nothing about it. What's the chances of the air system being just a switch that can be changed or will the vacuum not work without air? I won't be holding my breath on there being any accessories like extra feet (are they standard and will I need more than the standard one) If it has to have a compressor, what kind am I looking at bearing in mind it needs to be fairly quiet?

There's two on ebay at the moment. This one which looks like the basic with a clutch motor. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284452986412?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D672e2d912e9f49aaacbf11707c7ead24%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D265437153878%26itm%3D284452986412%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af4f61d19-5ad0-11ec-91c4-82881963cab4%7Cparentrq%3Aab97ff3d17d0a7b21ce5cb2efff15e97%7Ciid%3A1 And this one which is dearer with bells and whistles What do you think neighbour? Car won't do the first one unless I pay ulez I think the second one is outside. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265437153878?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D672e2d912e9f49aaacbf11707c7ead24%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D265437153878%26itm%3D265437153878%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af4f61d19-5ad0-11ec-91c4-82881963cab4%7Cparentrq%3Aab97ff3d17d0a7b21ce5cb2efff15e97%7Ciid%3A1

Thanks Jimi. That's reasonable, they should last a while cos I won't be doing any production runs. Good link Sheila. I also looked at Harry Rogers on YT. They seem to do what they're supposed to do.

Can I assume the TY801/CB801/JS801 etc are all the same machine? There's a decent looking used one in my area for sale but I know nothing about them. Being a skeptical sort of chap whose only luck seems to be bad I'm imagining the knife being wore out and all sorts. How much would a new knife cost? I seem to vaguely remember that they're not cheap. Thanks guys

You can of course buy leather that's finished on both sides. Don't know what it's called and I only have scraps but here's a pic of each side. (apologies for the pics). This is thin - around 1mm and of medium temper.

Batchelors came through. The snaps are a smaller size and to get a cap in the bottom is very tight. I'll have to use a copper rivet type punch with the hole in it over the post to get it in. If it goes I don't think I'll be needing glue.

Thank you Fred for the offer but I have some on way from Batchelors in London. It's people like you that keeps me monitoring this forum.

I did think of something like that Fred , How did they hold up? I'll see what the smaller snaps look like when they arrive. Don't like Sam Browns much but my clicker die punches out the hole with the slit.

Thanks guys but my bases are not as nice as those Mike and I've just realised that I don't have the caps for the nickel ones. Just ordered some smaller ones and the missing caps. Was just trying to avoid using Sam Brown studs but for this project the studs will be the way to go.

Does anyone make snaps with a domed bottom for when the underside is seen?

The thread that started this is over a year old but here's my twopenn'orth. My 1 ton arbor press has a hole drilled in the bottom of the ram with a locking screw in the side. The hole is big enough to take most punches and stamps (It doesn't matter if the thinner ones are offset slightly). I also use it as a clicker press with a 10mm plate on top of the dies. It also has an aluminium block with three heaters in it that can be attached to the bottom of the ram for embossing/ hot embossing or hot foiling. I have a few sets of the cutting shapes that I use by just putting a flat magnet under the bottom of the ram with whatever shape I'm using just stuck on the magnet. I don't usually use thicker that 2.4mm leather so I don't have to use much pressure and I haven't seen any wear on the magnet. Sometimes the shape doesn't come up with the magnet but that's ok with me. I don't have a crew punch so pulling the shape out of the leather occasionally still beats punching two holes and cutting in between.

Spot on zulu.

The first time I used mine the threaded bit pulled out of the wood. Don't use it often but a "G" clamp holds it when I do. I still prefer it over the metal one that I bought later and just sits on the shelf.

I also don't fix the thread. When you fix the thread eventually the thread wears thin in places. Not fixing the thread means the "wear point" moves and the thread doesn't get frazzled.

Didn't realise it was an old post. I went from that post to the Japanese technology (See my last) how far we've come.

Some of this can be used for leather but these couple of vids of Japanese sewing technology made me feel sad about our place in the modern world, made me marvel at the technology and made me smile at the scale of it from such a small country. The vid after this one is even better and is two years old. A bit long but I enjoyed every minute.

Well done Matt. Being a Virgo and a bit of a heathen when It comes to restoration I find myself strangely joining in with your enthusiasm. I'm sure I'll understand what all the fuss is about when you show it doing what it undoubtedly did very well in it's heyday.

So not organised and always reaching for the loupe to find needles so...

He certainly is Folker. I can watch him all day long.

Whilst we are talking "the right bobbin tension", Take a look at the maestro Cechaflo deliberately putting the tensions out of whack to create a stunning effect. If you don't want to be mesmerised by his precision go to around 8 mins.

HaHa! You're preaching to the converted Mike. I'm always in a hurry to find out if the concept works. Even whilst writing this I'm thinking (A) I'll have to make a bigger clicker die for the squares for the bigger seam allowance. (B) Maybe I'll de-construct this one and French seam it to save the patches. It'll mean smaller squares but it'll be worth having. (C) How the hell can you French seam on both axis? Don't think you can. Will defo be looking at quilting vids.

I'll have a look but I'm thinking it will have to be French seams next time. Means more work and more leather but the result will be chalk and cheese. (Is that even a saying over there?).