brmax

I suspect some lag bolts or screws in 1/4” would come with the reduction pulley assembly. Thats what i would use in this case anyhow. I would carefully pilot drill a smaller diameter for the three mount holes. I believe in some historical post on the site here there is mention to have the reduction pulley center clearly mounted behind the sew machines, pulley center. On the motor if relocation towards rear is required I would still try and maintain the carriage bolts typically used. If needed, I have consistantly used fiberglass resin to repair holes and wood surfaces. Allthough this resin repair is only for non oil soaked wood. Good day Floyd ps: i would wait or look in the included items before buying anything. There may be better attachment fastening hardware included.

I really think the metal leg assembly is a keeper. In that the adjustable legs option, not just height wise but non-level floors. I have concrete floor with low areas for drains and did build assemblies like this you have shown to address just these options and obstacles. I initally thought of your question and came to question of really! Needing both a nice seperate cutting area like Alpha made and then a carving & stamping area. What i thought is somehow building in some “quiet” surface for stamping and the general snap or rivet and addressing noise. So the layering of particle board with in between a mat of soft rubber like a horse stall mat. This could be say done with sheet goods from the builders/hardware box store. Utilizing them metal leg assemblies show above i think would Rock! have a great day! Floyd

I think either one of the flat beds could be a benefit to you and in the project list. As I see it the cobra comes with the speed/pulley reduction unit. This would be a nice addition or need for the Juki 1508nh. Its going to be real tough topping the actual asset the 1508 offers, if in a good condition. Respectfully they both can put the stitch down, I am partial to both brands for sure. Good day Floyd

That sure is a tall post bed machine. It seems that is a limited market I would think for that need. Some fabrication may be able to use a long arm cylinder machine possibly, but not likely to be any less cost. What is the material your using if I might ask. Good day Floyd

On your find, Fyi the Juki brand is the biggest sew machine manufacture in the world. In time your going to find they have been the clone for all others to copy for at least 20 years. The 562 you found does have a smaller bobbin, as many did of that vintage and very few had otherwise. So if in your looking over the machine, these following parts will be required on the machine by anyone in the leather world today First is a Servo type motor, next required is a Speed reducer pulley setup. This my friend will be mentioned in most every post on this site. And to my knowledge the internet site having many around the world contributing experiences in helpful post. When doing small articles or products the seam length is a measurement not real important. My only point here is its always pain unless I put in a full bobbin and have a stack of not full ones on a thread post. Here on an old wall listed is a G size bobbin in a singer I have. It is loaded with some v-92 poly and holding 24yards. So in my estimating this is good for 54 feet, of course the same requirement from the top thread. Your talking about some great projects and so I think mentioning the thread size in some way is a good way for discussion going ahead for a best answer to your machine question. This or rightly these particular medium size machines mentioned need bolstering. As there is one heck of a lot of projects with V138, V92, V69 being produce by leather workers here. Many of these using the medium size machines. So its a tough call for everone, and we all sometime usally early on find a machine cannot use all thread sizes we would like. The above motor and pulley setup is likely a figure to set at 350.US this you will find required in a great way! Like why didnt i change to this years ago. Good day Floyd

I would ask what is your present flat bed machine you mention. To the products in the photos they are a great design and have an appeal with the rivets that is a keeper. To first help answer your; looking for the “ perfect machine “ well need to look no further than the Adler brand, And with the Weaver leather supplier near you! How cool is that. I think most people here like the advantage of a cylinder arm machine. No matter the material, the craft or fabrication tends to favor the need the cylinder offers. Even though its a bigger step in cost so back again a choice in machines. Here is a dilemma the standard cylinder arm and or the heavier duty machines are both expensive. So maybe? the high percent of designs will be needing a cylinder for their items. I think a big cup of coffee or whatever and one can decide if the product requires these. Its suprising what can be flat top machine sewn if it or the material is thin and flexible. Thats a thought? Moving on, So anyway Believe me if one needs a big table to support and or help control the fabricated project, then serious cups of coffee need poured. In this design issue a flatbed is a plus. Although here again we might be back in decision also needing a cylinder arm for another percent of projects. Wow! Back n forth This I think is a point for many saying in realization the Juki 441 or its more accessible to us machines with their thickness capabilities are a staple with many leather worker purchases. So with all this, a size of project in typical leather work favors an ability to use one of the cylinder arm machines easily. This now is getting benefits from work tops that can be removed in short order, That is key. Not that I will do it but this promotes manfactures to design quick change options. And I hope many continue! Back at the decision again? So how to determine if I need or is it do I want. Also what are my limits if getting a standard duty or a heavier duty cylinder arm machine. Obviously the project size, the thickness and material. Almost forgot the ability of the machine to do this capability 8 hours a day every day, as this is how industrials are project assigned. Good day Floyd

You might have to get an additional speed reducing pulley setup, or try some of the speed options on your setup Good day Floyd http://www.consew.com/View/Consew-Model-CSM1000

It is a great oppurtunity here knowing or reading your projects. So it sure makes it better for others giving some experienced oppinions to help your decision. A couple of your projects seem to be leather and at present flat top machine capable. These sound to be a thickness less than 3/8” total and likely way less typically. These projects could use 138 thread and under it seems to me and be perfectly suitable. In your future and description on other projects like back packs in medium materials of textiles can be a good option as I see it. When the project message bag starts in conversation I think a bit bigger thread automatically. This doesnt have to be with material choices, but careful durability is sure part of the plan. To get back on track here I really only now see a cylinder arm need. I see a bigger need in your projects, with the decisions in regards to thickness as the real or best start. These can only be yours as its your ideas of materials and what you have a best grip on that you want to market. Good day Floyd

I would assume that taxes are paid locally for products purchased, and so I would charge it at the appropriated rate if personally used. If the products are listed as a business sale then the typical requirement of a business tax # is listed on the sale and kept in records for both present sale and future sales hopefully and so not charged or charged the designated amount for the product. The cross border tax is sure a new one on me and so that home work is time consuming initally. But in the meantime while not knowing or having the typical broker/border paperwork required I again would charge my typical local and State required tax. Not that i can fix all the waste but some of the tax will benefit my old age medical and some infrastructure needed repairs so my pickup truck can keep rollin Good day Floyd

As I been interested in the plastic surfaces seriously, I did an earlier search long ago. A brief result from a laymen plastic perspective is: HDPE is the most used plastic worldwide. There are “ many “ formulations. I wanted to mention that point as most of our kitchen and outback cutting boards are warped, and both are enviroments used extensively. A lot of these areas are even “out” of the sun. This goes to my point looking at certain product formulas addressing the warp!. Respectfully this is the only reason i posted. btdt Before weeks end I would like to make a decision on a better product formula. I have an area thats been in planning for far to long. This crazy plan is the only cutting surface area available. Reasoning for this is other painted surfaces are used and no cuts allowed! I do recall many shops, and some I worked in ages ago used masonite. This being regular and some shops used hardened for the table surfaces. Both put a clear coat of laquer at first or eventually. good day Floyd

I think the thickness really needs to be more than a 1/16” inch. Just for a tip and what i will only be looking for is something thats states “ wont warp”. good day Floyd

I recommend holding off any purchases that require shipping from another country. These few months at least could give an oppurtunity and or more insight with in country machines. Wishing great success on your search. Good day Floyd

I cant imagine sitting down to work! Or for that matter enjoy anything, especially a hobby I selected to rid myself of a tough day, with a stomach of sour milk. Something is wrong with this picture! As an investment I suggest using the milk for the cat and watch them joyfully patrol the yard or field edge around the home. This way its theraputic viewing them through the window, enjoying themselves. And you my friend would feel so much better. Even if resorting to thoughts of lemon water Have a good day Floyd

I also recommend the bigger machines for your mentioned projects. Your lucky on this one as there is not 10 choices In considering brands it’s always good practice to first find a brand that is represented well in your area or group so to say. With that knowledge you will soon find these machines in the range your team will need are just a few, actually. I will say the dealers can send a machine by pallet anywhere in the world. That part is small task really although they take it very serious in coordinating it all. To add and bolster the size mentioned like the Cobra 3 or class 4. I read other post ( stickies ) awhile back and found a mention with thread size. These items as used in securement, security or in better terms holsters, sheaths and with your mention baldericks as the carry securely tools or weapons. The middle weight machines in the heavy duty range do not use thread above V138 a few do mention V207. These smaller threads are as mentioned small for the task projects you mention. This fact moves the machine choice up to what Bikermutt07 mentioned. This range of machine has several dealers here in banner ads and others who frequent and post in this machine area. Some are Ferdco Pro 2000, Cowboy 4500, Cobra class 4, Techsew 5100 and to follow up for your State. The Artisan company with their Toro 4000 series. All these mentioned also have a slightly smaller machine still capable of the Big thread stitching. In any event big thread takes these machines listed. And moves you out of the super duty Upholstery size machines. Good day Floyd

Yes round points are the choice most used for textiles, a lot of vinyls and ?some leather. But most may use a sharp point for leather “ in various points avail”. With that you mention Orgeon 20, this is a thread size number used and for your machine typical size numbers of interest may be 18 through 22 or ? Something more important is what machine manufactures use, and termed needle System! Knowing this designation is the most important. Then one can select a number for thread size and points, all depending on project. Leather points typicaly cut their way vs round points pushing a textile thread to its side. I suspect your choices in thread will be between V46, v69, v92 and some v138. At this point and with some 20 size you could easily and smartly choose V92 in either nylon or polyester. Good day Floyd

Good afternoon re checking #3 question. In doing this without a dial indicator its splitting hairs. So another observation in checking bdc of needle and better i suppose is looking in the end door at the linkage connector at the needle bar. This seems to me another viewable way to gauge BDC. With this i have to retract my saying having the ability to press the reset button at bdc by the measurement of splitting a hair. But any way thats my settings for now. With this machine at bdc and a maximum stitch setting I have no movement in the feed dog. Though again taking a sip of coffee and rotating the pulley top toward me maybe 1/8” I can push totally down on the reset splitting that hair it bottoms the button and just enough this results in a slight movement of the feed dog fore and aft when applying the reverse lever. For some reason related to this adjustment I noted in the manual on 10.1B as this is an NH. I noted in the side bar @ needle bar bdc This is apita And thats noteworthy Floyd

52.3mm/2.059 is pretty spot on needle bar dimension when using the 190system needle im using. I made a habit to write adjustment date and figures in my manual. Its helped in my experiences. With that I wanted to mention a setting for what they term Alternate momentum pg. 24-25 I have set at A: wf .135” & B: pf .144” this may not mean much but wanted to list it. 1. As for your question, on mine my feed dog seems? to be flush with top surface when needle is touching a piece of paper put between them, yet when I lower “carefully” presser foot I seem to have .010” free space under outer presser foot and walker obviously is compressed .010” from feed dog Rising. This is on 0 stitch 2. On mine yes the set screws look to be as manual recommends 9 & 6, on the clock so to say, also I found it handy and noted it the clutch reset button can be freely depressed at this point. There is a hair bit of BDC slack movement but anyhow its a note. 3. Speaking from the last adjustment positions ( yes my feed dog is stationary ) but them adjustments require stitch be on 0. If using the push button at BDC i can hit both the points, down and up while depressing the reset button, and i tried setting most of these with a dial indicator. This was in my attempt to learn something about these. As my experience goes toward heavy equipment and diesel. I sure couldnt move ahead on these machines without the help on Leather Worker, and imho i should leave more to the pros that do this daily and have for most of there lives. With that im going back to the porch, I’ve barked enough. good day Floyd ps: the 1541 manual is interesting but mine totally needs and has its separate binder.

Good morning Do you have a part number by chance. Also being curious is there a photo handy, possibly showing the rod linkage or where it connect at the top. Others may know if this part has the roller on the bottom like some singer models have. Floyd

Real nice setup! I have to ask about the steel hammers, if i can. The brands and designs always get my interest being an old wrench bender. good day there Floyd

Sew machines sizes and description during a quick lunch topic discussion: In todays brief there could be a basic list of 5 sizes of industrial machines for fabrication. In my opinion 1 Lace to medium garment- up to 46 thread. We here can use the laymen thread size better in the start to considering size and or strength needed. We could now briefly say its the use of a 301 type lockstitch to be used. In the standard seams. 2 Medium heavy to heavy garment, includes general canvas, denims and coveralls, tenting with some automotive and upholsteries- 46 up to 138 thread. 3 Heavy garment, canvas, heavier automotive, aircraft, heavier upholstery and medium leather thickness. These items needing more pressure and a bit more duty. Also if appropriate for product the thread capacities and securement. These machines mostly use the same as others the typical 301 stitch type and threads and capabilities of 69 up to 138. The speed of machine even in factory setting can be slower in design for both power and operation. 4 Same as above with few machines having been adjusted to perform with a 207 thread. This in my opinion requires consulting with the machine tech, if Any concerns to frequent a smaller thread change-up. This is a newer market product so requires the machine tech discussion. There simply is very little experience here on the internet with this. This now is the other side of the line. 5 Big machines, that simply don’t use below the minimum 207 thread size efficiently. And with this size machine, really the threads of serious bigger sizes are the normal and doing so efficiently. The others may try to, but this machine size is Juki 441 and does it effectively with ease. I use this model simply because it is the choice most copied a lot and efficiently! ( This is the Big Dog ) many smaller will bark, but knowing best to, only! from the porch. Its a great time to mention, that there is no sense in discussing adjusting machines to other categories here. There are just to many perfect size machines. Not at all to be rude or blunt to the many future machine buyers but these are industrial machines, so setting or buying to perform a contract project, only then a possible reset or refit. In this we should think project size and capabilities of similar needs. This as a method we would setup for and could be our better solution! Todays standup lunch chat Later! Floyd

Possibly the GK refference is a sign! Gregg Keystone Floyd

Uwe: Thank you very much for that information. Its interesting some of the different mounting blocks on the folders. Really a benefit to the different plates or casting these machines have. All a bit different. I noticed in some older post some referring to the 441 size as large which is understandable so these others must be medium and small ? Good day Floyd

Uwe: that swing away binder looks like it would fit the juki 1341. If you have tried that or can mention anything on that casting I would appreciate hearing about that. Thanks Also its interesting the tape size options mentioned that they offer. Whats kinda nice I think is the listing of final finish measurement be it tape, leather or whatever. Thanks guys Floyd

I read many reviews on the smaller mats, say up to 48 inch before purchasing. I just want to be clear on this site, many of these Do smell for quite some time. They call it offgassing. I had purchased a big 48” green one wasnt olfa but a competitor, i called them on return procedure. I have been around a lot of construction, Ag, and heavy machinery in my days. Working on equipment in about every situation and can easily say the smell of this style of product will flat move your az out the building or you will move it. Sorry to be blunt! I wanted to be clear. It was two years later i decided to look at the fiskars as it looked to be a white material and I thought possibly different, it was a bit. So at JoAnns with cuuuupin! I picked up a small 2’ x 3’ white/grayish mat. I will say each and every one in the store had a smell. And to be honest the very one I brought home offgasssed for a couple weeks, but in no comparison to the other green one that had a black material in its sandwiched makeup assembly. I like it, the Fiskars. Now am finally getting around to building/finalizing a large surface to cut materials. I plan to incorporate a top surface mounted somehow to some 3/4 plywwod for a bit of solid support. What I wished I knew and maybe someone does know, is: what is the material the osborne black 3/8”x10”x10”mat is made of “ exactly “ ( in layman term ). This is normally used for the grommet and punch assembling with hammering these sharp tools. I have one from another supplier and it Kicks! It seems a hair bit softer than typical cutting boards, or King starboard for marine usage. So this is why I bored you all with the hot air. Thank you and sorry for any downer on the mat stuff. Good day there Floyd

Initial reasons I ask about the pulley arangement was to assess the use of plain ole 120v servo motor. Skip the 220 if possible. I was guessing that machine was geared already to use a small amount of power, and using machine parts as momentum. Im curious to hear any operational characteristics of these machines, mainly for any motor loads. Floyd