Colt W Knight

You'll have to forgive my ignorance, I don't know much about sewing machines I started out using a leather point needle, and that wasn't working at all - then I switched to using 135x17 160/23 ( are these round point? They look more pointed) That made a huge improvement What/where is the check spring travel?

What kind of leather are you sewing, and how thick? Do you have your top/bottom tension set so that the knot lays in the center of the sticking hole?

Keep them sharp. If your punches are sharp, you cut a hole in thin leather by just pushing the punch, dont even have to strike it with a maul. On thicker stuff, you dont have to hit it as hard if they are sharp.

Most plastics don't have enough surface are for the superglue to adhere to create a bond. There are super glues available that are for plastics that kind of melt the plastic like welding and work really well. Thread absorbs the glue like a wick and there is a ton of surface area for it. Fisherman even use it on braided fishing line that slip loose from knots. I wonder if your needle is too large and that is what is allowing your thread to come loose. I wish I knew the metric equivalents. I have never had backstitches comes loose before.

Switching needle types really helped - I almost have it set where it will sew 138 on top and 92 on the bottom with messing up the thread, but I am still not happy. I think I need a bigger needle. It will pull through the seatbelt, but not the weaver webbing. Here I thought sewing this stuff was going to be easier.

Yeah, everything went to hell when I messed with the bottom tension. I have some 92, I will give that a try. Thanks for the tip

Hello, I am making some GPS tracking collars for cattle, and I am trying to sew Weaver Brahma strap to polyester seatbelt material on my consew 206 RB-1 Right now I am using #138 thread (have both bonded nylon and bonded polyester) and #23 leather point needles. The machine isn't pulling the bottom thread up. The best I have been able to do is get the bottom to rest on the back side. If I tighten it more, the top thread frays or skips stitches. If I go lighter, the bottom thread bird nests. Any tips or suggestions?

Drop of water thin super glue

I switched over to an airbrush because of the unsatisfactory I had with wiping on dye and finishes.

My weaver and Osborne strappreciate end cutters cut straight and symetrical

I am going to get an tombstone next. The more I tool, the more I want something thats more solid and deadens more sound. I have a big anvil that works great, but its doesnt have a big enough surface area and it rusts

I wish I was an artist. I am extremely jealous of folks who have the skill and talent to draw and create unique pieces. I consider myself more of a mechanic/fabricator.

I don't know anything about strap construction, but I do have a ton of experience with lifting straps working in mines across the USA. Safety standards here are very strict. We could only use certified straps for lifting, and if they had grease on them or any frayed threads we were not suppose to use them. The slings we buy here in the USA have a tag with their lifting ratings based on how they are used (straight, basket, choked). I don't know about tow straps, but I bet there would be a ton of hoops to jump through to manufacture and sell lifting straps. Here is one regulatory agencies policy on slings - OSHA - is a major workplace safety organization in the USA that regulates working conditions. https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=STANDARDS&p_id=9834

I always seal in my dyes and antiques. I use mop n glo thinned fifty fifty with water through an airbrush. It is similar to acrylic resolene but super easy to clean up and cheap to buy. I also like it because its not nearly as shiny as leather lacquers like super sheen. If your desired finish is too shiny, you can rub it lightly with 0000 steel wool after it dries all the way to give it a matte appearance.

I think you are right

Adler 204-370 maybe?

You would need more tools to make the appropriate jigs to do it with a hand drill, IMO.

another term or sign to look for is welding/fabrication shop. Like JLS stated, its a quick and easy job.

I agree 100% with what fiebings told you. Filling the pores with gum trag isn't going to give the edge coat any kind of "tooth" to adhere too.

+1 on Weldwood red label contact cement available at any hardware stores The red label comes in classic "extra goey" or gel. I bought the gel by accident last time, and I have to say its less mess and has worked just as well. It doesn't string out like hot cheese on pizza like the original recipe.

I started buying all my leather from Hide House in Napa, CA

I quit buying from tandy, the leather quality is pretty bad at my local store.

I almost bet that cheap leather is causing your trouble.

You shouldn't be having much trouble with 8 ounce leather, unless maybe its cheaper leather that doesn't have good temper to start with. When I wet the edges on my leather, I run a sopping wet rag/paper towel with saddle soap along the edges once. I found if I only wet 4-5 inches at a time, I can focusing on burnishing smaller sections at once and I end up with better results.

Yall are fancy, I keep my stuff handle down in an old spray can lid.