Jordan

Not sure if the finish is still wet but the blotchy look is a problem that I am working on too. there are a few threads here that have alot of good info on dyes and finishes that have helped me. I found that experimenting with alot of scrap is the way to go LOL.. jordan

Just started to mess with my neels5 here are a couple of photos for comment and advise. I am still trying different tensions etc. and learning what all the knobs and moving parts actually do. As you can see there is a slight angle to the stitches on top but appear straight on the bottom. Front looks ok for a beginer but the back sucks, looks as though the thread is actually tearing into the leather.

Randy, a quick question, on your pocket holsters do you sew the bottom closed to prevent lint and whatever from getting to the muzzles? I leave my regular ones open but have not made any pocket models, maybe others can chime in also?

Another source is craigs list, I picked up a LighttracerII for 10.00 a couple of months ago from a local amature cartoonist who was upgrading. Works like a charm. Also my latest design from a pic of a necklace I saw online.

I think it would be mostly decorative and maybe cushion the shooters knuckles during the firing cycle. Don't know anything about braiding but I would guess you would need to be able to remove it for cleaning and preventing rust under the leather due to moisture retention. With a winchester 94 if the braid was anywhere but the lower part it would prevent the fire safety button from being pushed in far enough to allow it to fire. just another trivial gem from the recess of my mind. LOL Jordan

On some pocket holsters I have noted more of a point at the top area of the ear, apparently helps keep the holster deeper in the pocket and reduces the tendency for it to come out with the pistol, kinda like a fishook effect I guess. Just a thought, hope my description made sense. Great work on all your stuff BTW....Jordan

The wood strap cutter I use is terrible for the thin stuff for that I use a straightedge and razor knife or a rotary cutter. Good luck with your quest, you will find a way that works for you just have to try a few different methods.

price varys as much as ten dollars on blue guns so shopping around is a good thing.

Always start with a straight edge, always use a very sharp blade, always keep the leather tight to the cutter handle (like a fence on a tablesaw) that is what I have found works with the basic wooden strap cutter from tandy, also going slow helps. Oh yea make sure all adjusting nuts bolts handles etc are tight.

Mine rolls her eyes and shakes her head as she heads back upstairs. LOL

That is cool looking, classy.

I have found that 1/16 proud of the surface is recomended on most snaps and rivets. I have used the french edger to slightly countersink around the snap or rivet post works pretty good without weakening the area to badly. My problem is usually the opposite the shaft is to long and I have to nip it off but then I get an unsightly dimple on the face of the snap. Hope this helps a bit.. Jordan

Thats a real beauty, great work for 2 years experience in carving, I would like to see more of your work.. Jordan

Don't want to dampen anyone's enthusiasm, but ( there is always a butt isn't there). LOL While the design of seatpans foam types and thickness etc. are all good points that need to be addressed, the entire bike needs to be considered, such as footpeg placement, ride height, bars and controls placement, size of the rider, and the designed in posture (read side profile of the rider), among many other things. Are you riding upright road racer, classic motorofficer, or laidback and stretched out. Just some things to consider. I found that a kidney belt helps to keep me from slouching thereby making the seat more comfortable on longer rides of course frequent refreshment breaks would do the same thing but I'm afraid I don't cover a whole lot of miles in a day that way.LOL Hey whatever works alot of experimenting is in order until you get the right combo of fit and comfort, therein lies the fun and the love of 2 wheeled motorized transport....Jordan

I appeciate this post as I am one who is learning the how much to charge lessons, It is a difficult topic to ponder in a day and age that most everyone has been brainwashed into the walleyworld definition of price and quality. I have to constantly remind myself to steele my resolve and ask a realistic price for my items, reactions be damned. I admit I am guilty of it myself when I need to purchase something or other. And as stated in prior posts, let-um go to walmart, works for me. The way I try to see it is if a customer wants real quality and has some understanding of the time and effort I put into my stuff, they WILL be back and pay the price I ask. If they don't then chances are pretty good I don't need them as a customer, some are just not worth the trouble. I have not sold alot of stuff but I have found that there are not alot of people doing leatherwork around here, so the market is ok... Just my 2cents worth on the subject, anyway glad to see there are a few other rambling old farts hangin around. LOL Jordan

Thanks, LOL.. Jordan. The carving is beautiful, based on my poor stitching ability I really don't see much of a problem with his.

Yup, the only things they can't take away are my pkup, sewing machine and the hot tub! Supposedly they can't turn off the electic if you're diabetic we shall see.LOL As the saying goes, this too shall pass. I have always figured God only gives you as much as you can handle, somedays I think he has me mixed up with Superman.hehehe...Jordan

Very nice work, I had a customer that wanted something like that for a messenger shoulder bag, unfortunatly he couldn't deal with the price quote.

It was just a guess and it is obvious I was way off. No insult intended and my experience around here is that most people are just plain cheap. Double my guess seems reasonable to me, but asking that much would be a difficult sale with a public that wants everything for free. Maybe elswhere in the country would be easier. Bianchi site lists some rigs at around 600 not sure if thats just for a belt or the whole rig?

Guess I am wrong! there is plenty of room for artistic expression.LOL Beautiful work and thanks for the ideas. Jordan

Fantastic and the time it took shows in the quality of the end product. What would the rig cost retail these days? I would guess 350 to 400 dollar range?

Luke I think your on the right track with real nice border and edge treatments for the auto's, most are worn concealed or semi hidden under jackets etc. except for the basic black duty holsters. I have been real slow to do anymore holsters, must be the weather and feelin poorly lately, but Regis I also am very interested in what others ideas are. Seems to be not alot of room left for carving after stiching, moulding, straps & snaps and such.

From what I gathered from the site, the leathercraft business is steeped in history and long on traditional craftsmanship in the UK. Appears that if a person wanted a proper education in all aspects of leatherwork in that part of the world it may be worth the time and expense. There are a few people here in the states that have that training, maybe on this forum? I personally can't afford it but it looks like it would be quite an education.

I like it but I think there should be an 8 ball in the background, but the owner's of sps write da shecks.

Silver Tongued Devil