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Everything posted by Big Sioux Saddlery
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Weaver does carry Hermann Oak, but as I think someone mentioned above, only in TR grade. Honestly, I have gotten some really nice leather from Weaver, as well as some crap (which is basically the simplified description of TR), and I have also gotten some crap direct from Hermann Oak. Their hides do typically have less run-off in the shoulder and fewer wrinkles, as well as fewer cuts on the flesh side, which may be the biggest nemesis to a harness maker. Buying leather is always a crap-shoot, kind of like buying hay. Of all the hides processed, very few are perfect, or maybe none, so we have to take what's out there and make the best of it. Not trying to be quarrelsome regarding what NVLeatherworx said above, (for some reason I can't get my computer to quote) but I don't consider Weaver anywhere close to being on the same level as Tandy. Weaver is NOT a small supplier. OF course I haven't looked at a Tandy catalog in a few years, nor walked in one of their stores, but I do buy from Weaver at least once a month, sometimes 2-3 times a month, and it's rare that I have they don't have what I need in harness hardware. I'd hate to try to build harness using only Tandy as a supplier, but then it probably depends on the type of work a person does. But I digress, as far as Hermann Oak, I've only ever bought from Weaver or direct from HO. There may be better sources out there than Weaver that I don't know about.
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I think Weaver is a big enough company that they aren't going to try to cheat you by sticking you with a 4/5 when you ordered a 8/9 and hoping you wouldn't notice. I would sooner expect that from a smaller company, but there are so many people that work at Weaver and each person is just doing their job. They might suck at their job, but I don't think anyone is out to cheat you in that way. You have to understand the qualities within a hide. A cow only has one butt, and the neck and shoulder is not going to be the same quality as the butt. Their term "strap side" refers more to the type of leather than if that particular hide is suited the whole length for a given type of strap. We harness makers run into this with every hide we cut; that's part of the job, evaluating each and every hide and deciding what type of parts would be suitable to cut from it, I'm not saying you don't have a legitimate gripe with Weaver, because I've had to call and complain and send leather back also. But I'm thinking MAYBE you need to reconsider your expectations for cutting your straps the total length of ANY hide. I receive very few hides that make the grade for cutting a full length strap which will remain unlined and used at it's full length, such as driving lines. I doubt if it's one in ten. I have just learned to adjust my expectations and use every hide as best I can. When I get one that I know I'll be able to cut lines from, I set it aside, and that's the ONLY thing that gets cut from that side until I run down far enough toward the belly to make it unsuitable for lines. It often means an increased cost to the consumer, because of increased waste factor, but that's just part of the job and part of life.
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And that is EXACTLY why I will never let someone else cut leather that I am going to use. That shoulder/neck area could have been used for another project if left intact, now you have a whole bunch of straps that may not be good for anything. Not rippin' on ya, just the voice of experience speaking. Hides with good, usable shoulder areas, with no drop-off in weight and a minimum of wrinkles seems to nearly be a thing of the past. Try cutting driving lines from leather like you received (only harness leather of course). It's no wonder the synthetics have become popular. I've seen new old stock lines that were made back in the '30's and you can't tell the butt from the neck or the shoulder. Good, solid hide from one end to the other, and no wrinkles. I dream about getting leather like that.
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Do You Make One Product At A Time?
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to DavidL's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
I don't make holsters but I do try to consolidate the "like" work as much as I can. Saves time and time is money. That's why one-off stuff is higher priced. Even Jeramiah Watt says you gotta have at least a couple saddles going at one time:-) -
I rolled the edges on my oval Osborne punches after very little use. They are junk IMO. I have some Weaver oval punches, and while the quality of the steel is better and they are still cutting well after many years, I don't like the abrupt taper on them. In punching two layers, like a lined flank billet or a D & S trace on a carriage harness, after punching, the hole on top is stretched way bigger than on the bottom. The old high quality punches did not have this abrupt taper and the top and bottom of the hole were similar in size, with very little stretching on top. My favorite oval punch is a cheap one I bought from Tandy 25 years ago; I think it's a Rampart. It looks like an el cheapo, but it is a way, way better punch than any of the others I own, and it has received a lot of use. Only problem is they came in one size only, and I'm sure the new ones are nowhere near the quality of this one. Best of luck to you and I'm sorry I couldn't be of more help.
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JHayek, never apologize for pricing something at what you think it's worth. Some people will try to get you down if you want to give it to them. Over the years I have adopted this policy: this is the price and if you don't like it, I guess it won't work for you. That applies to the leather business, horse tradin', and everything else. Oltoot, I have relatives in Rawlins! Second cousins, I think.
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Third Saddle - Will James
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to rktaylor's topic in Saddle & Tack Maker Gallery
Oltoot took all the words right out of my mouth, particularly about tipping the rigging and lacing the skirts. The rigging angle takes fussing with to get right, and can differ from horse to horse. It was the first thing I saw when I looked at your saddle. Level on the stand does not equal level on the horse. I also do not lace my skirts (anymore) for exactly the reasons toot stated. The Cheyenne roll takes practice to figure out what works good (about like everything else). Sometimes mine look good, sometimes not as much. Congratulations on finishing #3! I have 2 in progress that will have to wait now until the spring rush slows down, which could be next winter! -
What Cut Of Leather Is This?
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to justinwilliams's topic in All About Leather
Looks like a poorly trimmed single bend to me. -
I have somewhat of a love affair with the old Landis 1's. It was the first machine I bought that I could actually sew something on, after having bought a couple other junker machines not made to sew leather. I used one exclusively for at least 15 years and still use one some today. I have 3 of them and don't really care to sell any one of them. Anyone starting out who is looking for a good machine at a reasonable price should look no further. This machine appears to sew tight and consistently. While it is limited somewhat by it's design, (all machines are) and not quite as user friendly as the brand new machines, these are trouble free, reliable machines that I guarantee will outlast anything new being made today. The price is very reasonable. While we have all seen Landis 1's sell for less, this one is ready to go, not all worn out, and the bobbin winder comes with it. These machines sold for $1000 twenty years ago. A great deal!!
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Are you looking for leather calfskin or rawhide? In Lakeside, NE you should sure be able to get calf hides! Lol. I've got one in the lime tank right now. It's from a red angus calf. It'll be the first red hide I've gotten and I'm anxious to see if the color really is better, as some folks claim.
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How To Machine Stitch A Leather Belt With Two Loops?
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to SantaFeMarie's topic in How Do I Do That?
There are a number of ways to do this. The "right" way would be to start sewing at your buckle, sew one end of the keeper in and all the way around the belt to where the other end of the keeper would go in. You can either stop there and pull your work out of the machine and hand sew the rest of the way, or continue sewing up to the buckle, NOT through the keeper, Then pull your work out, remove the few stitches where the keeper should go, and re-sew the keeper in by hand. That way you have the holes that the machine made. A quicker and acceptable way for common work would be to sew one end and staple or tack the other end. Some people use a stapled keeper and slip it on the belt and then sew across the belt between the buckle and keeper, and then sew the rest of the belt. A true harness or bridle maker would break both your arms if you sew ACROSS a strap. Hope this all makes sense to you. Much simpler when you see it than to read about it. -
I have a few old Gomph edgers (wish I had a complete set) and I also have a couple Watt edgers. There is no comparison; I was extremely disappointed in the Watt edgers. Now if you're upgrading from Tandy or newer Osborne tools, that might be a different story, but when I bought the Watt edgers, I had already been using the Gomph tools for years. Mostly Watt's hang on the back of my bench and look pretty. The Gomph edgers are usually ON my bench, getting used throughout the day, every day. I say, if you have an opportunity to buy some good old Gomphs, do it and don't look back
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Stirrup Leathers And Fenders
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to muttley's topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
I second what CW said -
Seeking Opinions For Business Insurance
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to mrbeebs23's topic in Marketing and Advertising
Hmm, I will definitely check into that. Thanks NVLeatherWorx!- 8 replies
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- insurance
- business insurance
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Seeking Opinions For Business Insurance
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to mrbeebs23's topic in Marketing and Advertising
Holy Crap $350 a year for a 2 million dollar policy is cheap! I'd like to know more about that. Mine is a fraction of the coverage and over double the premium, closer to triple.- 8 replies
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- insurance
- business insurance
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Chevy Vs Ford?
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to Gregg From Keystone Sewing's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Owned good ones of both makes. Currently driving a '99 F250 with the 7.3 that I ordered new and will probably have to drive it until it's junk. Seems like the Chevys have lots of little annoying stuff go wrong; windows, door locks, gauges, etc. Always something. For longevity and pulling power, still can't beat the 5.9 Cummins in the old Dodge pickups. They'll pull my pickup out of the ditch. -
Interesting thread. I have always drilled holes on most of my saddles, if they are going to have strings. I even built one early on for myself that I screwed in because I was worried about holes in the tree, and I went back years later and drilled them. The strings were always coming unscrewed, BUT I did not do it like Keith explains. I do see a lot of old saddles with the tree rotted out at the string holes. I also work on a lot of saddles that aren't drilled that are coming apart because they don't have strings through the tree to keep them together. But again, they are not made like Keith explained, and he builds far more saddles than I do. As far as the holes rotting out, I don't know if it will make a difference, but I take a little paintbrush and get some polyurethane in the holes and let it dry well before assembling. We'll all be dead before any of us have a chance to find out if it made a difference.
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That's what I have done BIGGUN when I didn't want to or couldn't make my own. It is not hard to find a good woodworker, and freight does certainly add up.
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Saddle Seat - Smooth Or Rough Out?
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to CourtneyLynn's topic in Saddle Construction
Personally I like the roughout myself. I've never had a friction burn problem, although I have heard both men and women complain about it. Smooth is too slick for me, I feel like I slide around too much. I like roughout chaps against a roughout seat and fenders. -
I will be interested to hear how you like this. There are many times that I cuss the strap running through the jaws in that it inhibits working on a large piece. However, I can see myself pinching my hand in the over-center mechanism where it hinges. Maybe that would only happen once:-)
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Info Request: American Straight Needle
Big Sioux Saddlery replied to cgleathercraft's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Chayne, will do, but these are machines that have sold at auction sales. You have to be there when they're selling. Where are you located? I'm heading to a sale at the end of this month, and they do sometimes have one there.